Gazzar

1 Think so : you can swap the engine mounts over if necessary 2 Ditto: though you may have to swap the flywheel housing I'm not 100% certain that the injection pump on the 2.5 will clear the battery box holder though. No doubt someone who has done it will be along shortly.

I've a drivers side tank rigger, used, rusty, sound, attached to a dead chassis up for grabs - in Co Laois - if you are interested. Cost: one angle grinder cutting disk.

Hi Les, I've just been looking at the pipes - the feed to the bottom of the IP and to the filter are on the same banjo at the lift pump. Thus are at the same pressure as the filtered feed to the top of the IP. The Spill/return pipes to the tank and filter are on the same fitting on the 4th (bellhousing) injector. I just hope we've not fitted them wrong! It agrees with the parts manual though. I donno - it just looks over complicated to me. Typical land rover - only company that took over 100 components to hang an exaust pipe in 1981. G.

Cheers Les, So, does the Back Leakage connection on the Injection Pump take fuel from the IP that was used to lubricate the IP back to the pump? If so it would be filtered diesel, so that's ok then. I understand that - thanks. As for the second spill return, why does it go to the filter (unfiltered side) and the tank? Is the idea to heat the fuel in the filter a bit? I can kinda understant that, though I thought heating dinodiesel wasn't a good idea. Gary.

Other alternatives: If you have a dremel or similar you can cut a slot for a screw driver into the stud. Use an impact driver with a slot head (impact grade) to drive it out. Ensure the stud has beed soaked in penetrating oil/plusgas/rustoleum for a day or two. Apply heat to loose rust or threadlocking compound. A final resort: Using a tungsten carbide tile cutting bit from a dremel remove the material a bit at a time - not applicable to this circumstance as there is so much material sticking out. g.

The 2286 diesel fuel system has the usual complement of fuel lines for a diesel, there are however two lines I don't quite understand. The first: From the fuel lift pump to the bottom on the distribution pump (unfiltered!) From the bulkhead injector spill (return) line to the fuel filter, in addition to the return to the tank. What do these lines do? Just curious. G.

Loose adjuster on the clutch pedal? G.

I think that most of the body will swap, except for the radiator panel. The wheel base is the same as are most body mounting points. With suitable cutting most engines and gearboxes will fit. Axles will fit with some welding. Seats etc fit. roofrack is no problem, winch may need work. g

I read an article in LRM recently about a 2a that had wolf rims fitted without changing the studs. The wheel came off, the landrover damaged a passing car and was a right off. If it was me I'd change the studs and nuts, I believe Zeus engineering can supply them. No idea if they are any good - their timing gear product didn't receive universal praise. G.

Sorry, I had assumed that as Kingdong was in Manchester he would have a RHD vehicle. Obviously if you are in most other countries you have to put up with the steering wheel being fitted to the wrong side, good thing you also drive on the wrong side of the road, otherwise you'd be in a right mess. Seriously. for LHD vehicles check out Teri Ann Wakeman and her website - she covers a lot of conversion ground, and, as she is based in North America she has had to overcome the "steering wheel on the wrong side" problem. G.

Yes, I know - it is a learning curve. But think it through - air goes in the filter, down a pipe to the turbo, where it is pumped (compressed) into the engine, via the "intercooler" or charge cooler, which reduces the temperature or the air to allow more fuel to be added than otherwise. Thus the main point of entry for air is the air filter. Any holes past this point allow unfiltered air in - or compressed air out. All these things are bad. Ideally you would want to fit a snorkel, as this reduces the chance of a water ingress problem. I believe there are other drains and sensors connected to the air system, which you would want to seal up. On the subject of air filters, if you reuse the oil bath filter fron the series you could run the risk of oil being drawn into the engine - better to use the disco 200 paper filter. The housing just links up to the snorkel, just to make life easier. Stick with the disco manifold, you'll have enough problems fitting intercolers and the like to go looking for more work! All good fun. G.

How did you get on?

I'd be surprised that the location would be a factor regarding water, afterall it is all sealed up. Perhaps I'm not thinking it through. But to answer your question: on a SWB the disco turbo will not foul the chassis rail so no NEED to change it. The Defender turbo manifold is less efficient, as the disco manifold allows air to flow better. So it will down rate the engine, a bit. Nothing to worry about as you can tweak the pump and stuff. I'd stick with the disco as the defender manifolds are expensive to buy. For a lwb the story is different, as the turbo ususally hits the chassis rail. G.

MY '81 2286 petrol, with 48k miles, at tickover, is very quiet. So quiet you have to listen for it. Of course at 30 mph in the field things are different. If it sounds like a tin can of bolts being shaken then something is NOT right. Just checking, given you mention Mercedes (which is metric), that you are using an imperial feeler gauge. Its the sort of thing I'd get wrong. G.

Marcus, Research the rebuild of a dana 60 axle, they are very similar to the salisbury (same company - salisbury is a US corporation - nothing to do with the plain in England). The key problem that I could see was setting up the preload. I'm going to have a go later this year, as I suspect that there are no experts near where I am. I have some links saved on the network, but its broken at the moment so I'll post them later. It looks tough, and painstaking work, special tools look like a dial gauge, a press, and some way of getting the diff out of the case, although there is a workaround for some problems. But doable - if you are willing to risk the loss of the axle. Parts look available from Craddocks, and it might be the opportunity to fit a locker or lsd. Mind you: depending on where in the world, you are it might be cheaper, and easier, to get a new second hand one. Your call, your risk, your loss, your gain. G.

The Aerosol and lighter looks the best for expedition route. I presume that some aerosols are better than others, but having never played with these and lighters (too poor as a young lad to afford cigs - had a land rover to feed) I wouldn't be sure which would be best. can of wd40? hair spray? A practice session before leaving would be a good idea. G.

Got to try that! Beats my current appraoch of sitting on the tyre and hoping that it works! G.

Just checked on mine: that's the set up. My earlier post was wrong, there is a seperate line fron the inlet manifold to the servo. G.

I had similar problems with my 2286, however my problems were more to do with poor petrol (vehicle lying up too long) and, perhaps more relevantly to you, perished connectors on the vacumn advance. The reason I am suggesting you check the connecton is that when you blocked the breather vent from the rocker cover you may have increased the vacumn, and thus the advance. Perhaps? There are two rubber pipe connectors - one on the carb and one on the dizzy. My engine has a metal pipe between the two, although I was told that this is uncommon, and the pipe is usually plastic. Having the dynamic timing right will help. I also replaced the o- ring on the breather cap, this allowed me to have the vacumn system as standard. By the way the other pipe on the tee connector went to the servo on my late series 3. There are two positions on the zenith conrol lever - make sure you have connected throttle cable to correct one. To check the fuel pump I disconnect the fuel pipe at the carb and get someone to turn the engine. Glugs of fuel indicate that the pump is ok. Take all precautions necessary for glugs of flamible liquid splashing about! I suspect you are close to success so peservere! G.

I know what I want for Christmas! Yum. G.

Try changing the fuel filter, and air filter. Check the turbo oil feed pipes. Could be something in the turbo about to go, I don't have enough tea in me this morning to think clearly but I dimly recall there being a seal in the turbo that can go and leak oil into the intake with obvious results. Time to do the tdi. G.

Cardbord milk cartons work if you are stuck ; they are moisture resistant and also have a wax type component that should be oil resistant. Not ideal but, as I say, when you are stuck.................... G

I've owned a set from Screwfix for ages - £30 odd - very good and has taken a fair heap of use with the ford service tool number 3 (BIGGER HAMMER). Not perfect but very very good! Even has the all important Landrover Series III wheel nut socket. Description: 37 Piece Impact Socket Set Drop-forged, heat-treated, Chrome Vanadium socket set finished in black oxide. 7 piece 3/8" drive shallow impact sockets 8, 9, 12, 13, 14, 16 and 17mm. 6 piece 3/8" drive shallow impact sockets, 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", 1 1/16" and 3/4". 11 piece 1/2" drive deep impact sockets 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 21 and 24mm. 10 piece 1/2" drive deep impact sockets 1/2", 8/16", 1 1/16", 3/4", 1 3/16", 7/8", 1", 1-1/16" and 1-1/4". 1/2" drive 3" extension. 3/8" drive 3" extension. 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor. Link to what looks like the same set (the box I got was blue). http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsession...amp;x=2&y=0 G.

If swapping springs just swaps the lean, why can't you take the spring packs apart and swap over , say, half of the leaves? Good opportunity to paint them up and apply a low friction coating. G.