BogMonster

Having a part time 4x4 system in my Ranger I have to say I hate it and would much rather have permanent 4x4. The only positive feature of the system is being able to take off in a shower of gravel or screech of tyres if you are in a bad mood

Quite possibly as you say the engine is not warming the coolant enough to get the whole rad warm. Direct injection engines are fairly efficient - go and tow 3 tons up a hill and see what happens

I'm afraid on a Td5 it often means the head is cracked, as the fuel rails consist of drillings through the head (another great idea right up there with having the wiring on the inside...) The fix is effin expensive as you will imagine - new head

Thanks, looks interesting

No, if you remove the EDC the engine will not run - fuel economy rockets but the usefulness is limited You could dump the pump and fit one off a standard Tdi which would get you back to 111bhp.

or the 2.0 MPi engined Defenders for the Italian Police...

or General AT2 just to add to your confusion

I had to look that up on Google... Good idea but I think they would probably fall off - the roads here are pretty rough. I would probably spend much of the time with them fitted and take them off for off-road trips, rather than only fitting them when the trailer was on.

It's the brackets rather than the flaps that get trashed on a 110 though, so some new brackets tucked up further are a must to avoid trashing the bodywork when the bracket gets torn off. I too have seen people that tie them up out of the way with bungees or whatever, to avoid the classic "reverse over a grass bog and rip the flap off" problem! I like the hinge pin idea though, I might work on that Tim is yours a 90 or a 110 though? mudflaps are further forwards on a 110, not on the crossmember like a 90.

Anything with an alarm will have a diagnostic sockets for the alarm system if fitted and I think the EGR ones do as well though they are rare here so I wouldn't swear by that.

Can't see how it would rub on the shocks I had this size in BFG on my 1996 D1 for a while and found I needed to trim the rear of the rear arches a little, as it rubbed there, and it touched somewhere at the front but never found out where so it didn't bother me! Fitted on Freestyle alloys, different wheels with different offsets might not be the same.

I need some quick release rear mudflaps for my 110 - i.e. something I can take off and on in less than a minute preferably without tools! The reason is that I have two different requirements: 1) Towing a trailer on gravel roads, which as anybody who has tried it will know, you need mudflaps on the back of the vehicle otherwise with mud-terrain tyres on you will lose all the windows in the back of the vehicle VERY quickly as rocks fly up from the tyres, ping off the trailer body and tinkle.... £100 plus of glass chippings in the back. 2) Off road for which I am already sick of mudflaps having trashed the bracket and bent the rear side panel again yesterday just dropping gently into a steep ditch The standard rear mudflap bracket is just bolted on the outside to the thin alloy bodyside panel on a 110 and is very vulnerable to damage as 110 owners will know. My idea is to make a stronger bracket which sits higher up (inside the bodywork) and have some sort of quick-release system (yet to be determined - maybe pins and R clips or something, any other ideas?) so I can pop the mudflaps on and off as the requirement dictates. Just wondered if anybody else has done this and if so could you post up a pic in case it gives me an idea. Most people here just take the mudflaps off (as I used to do on the old 90's) but at the moment I need something quickly removable for the reasons above. Ta

Standard and I would say why change, I know of D2s here with 150k on the clock and still mostly original bushes, putting this into context Defender bushes last about 20k miles on the roads here. The one thing the Puma Defender should have had was the D2 suspension setup.

Four speed hydraulic winch approaching? B)

1hp hay-burning engines have to be quite low geared to pull half a tonne of horse so the torque multiplication is excellent for towing

Of the "standard" sizes you should get a 305/70R16 or 315/75R16 on but check the manufacturers minimum rim width - it might be 8.5" which insurers might not like.

If so it is a spider unit!

You have 2 separate problems - the spider unit has nothing to do with whether the alarm is armed or not. disconnect the horn under the bonnet for diagnostic purposes (note that this won't work with a BBUS but I am told a bucket of water is quite effective )

I don't think this should happen! Not sure what regulates the temperature though.

Back to the original question, I'm actually going to disagree with the theory that ES is a must. I had the opportunity to get an ES (new) for only about £1000 more than I paid for my D2 when I bought it. I thought about it, and had driven both types (base/S and ES) and decided I wanted a more basic one for the following reasons: 1) I didn't want 7 seats - no need for them and the bins are more useful 2) I didn't want air suspension - something else to go wrong 3) I didn't want ACE - something else to go wrong Six years on I have not regretted that decision and have also found that the cloth interior on mine has worn much better than the leather interior on a similar age ES here which has similar miles on it. I have no worries about keeping it for a few years more (it is garaged and gets very little use now) as there is a lot less to go wrong under the vehicle than there would have been on an ES. Just my 2p

It can provide good results but often fades again quickly, my old Portofino red 90 did anyway.

You can (Ashcrofts) but it means stripping the transfer box to fit it which is an expense I can do without. Anyway if I want to go anywhere much off road I take the Defender, because whatever the brochures say a Defender will dump all over any amount of Discovery traction control electronics when you go somewhere interesting

Don't know - I have only seen the round pinned type - the above adaptor fits Defenders with C42 radios in anyway 'cos that is what we stock them for

Adaptor via Google zillions of possible suppliers: http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q...earch&meta=

You are supposed to pull sideways on the shroud bit on the edge of the connector and there are two locating pegs which slide up an angled groove and it pops out quite easily. Yes there is an adaptor available either from Land Rover or I imagine any good aftermarket ICE specialists. I have one in my hand at this moment made by Autoleads part number PC2-05-4 intended for BMW 3 series etc. The silly connector you are looking at is one of the things foisted on the company by BMW during their reign of terror power at Solihull. Der Rover Group shall all use der German radiokonnectors or you vill all be shot schweinhund Englanders