BogMonster

Don't know, but quite possibly they have different tyres. Perhaps they need a "Y mark" instead of an "E mark" or something? I think the Discovery 3 suspension geometry is just plain odd, if you look at them from behind they look knock-kneed (rear wheels closer together at the top than the bottom) and the rear wheels appear to have about an inch of toe-in! I guess it must be an optical illusion to some extent or the tyre wear would be epic, but it doesn't look right!

Check the EGR valve isn't jammed open. I have known a Td5 vehicle need low range to get up a small hill on road when it had a jammed EGR valve, and the smoke was awesome!

The problem was the dash material being allergic to sunlight I think

7.50Rx16 Avon Rangers

The dashboards were the subject of warranty claims in the early years - new dash fitted - but any chance of getting warranty on the affected ones has long since gone since they are now at least 10 years old.

sounds more like fuel problems to me than electronics but just my 2p...

The pins will be fine I am sure, but the other thing you can do is to fit radius arm bolts and Nyloc nuts, they are the same size (once cut to length) and when the hitch seizes up you can put a spanner on the bolt head and turn it rather than battering the s*** out of it with a sledgehammer.

Think the Trek vehicles were only ever sold in the States so I'm guessing they may have been "liveried" over there. Otherwise, Land Rover special vehicles might be worth a try?

Yes here you are http://www.devon4x4.com/shop.php?mode=prod...amp;product=205

Welcome There is a repair kit available, I think it is from Devon 4x4, not sure if you need to take the screen out but I don't think so? I seem to remember it is a bracket that screws down with self tappers along the leading edge. Personally I'd fit a new dash, its not as expensive as you'd think and it makes an interesting project which takes less than a day to do, I did my own one on my old Discovery and it took 4.5 hours having never done it before.

Go and look in the Tech Archive in the section on Recovery Ideas/Equipment

well you def want to get a crank pulley with lips on front and rear! it may still chafe the belt but should not "fall off the front" in the way you described, belt wear is a slow process

When a commercial one costs a few hundred quid I can't help wondering what you get for 20 quid... probably not a lot?

Make the extension a few feet shorter than the winch rope. No sense in taking out the 125' extension then finding you need to re-rig the anchor because it is two feet away from the hook when there is enough line on the drum to pull... I have a sleeve over the end of my winch rope to protect it where it comes out through the fairlead and it works well.

A NATO hitch is rated to about 22 tons breaking strain. Bolt it on properly to something solid and you will NOT break it

Go on Nige, you know you want to make one with a disc of 50mm steel...

Swearing always helps (said he just having changed a puncture outside g/f house at 7.00am ) Take it off and clean it out properly, and fit the new O rings while you are at it. I reckon on doing it once a year, usually not much in there if running on pump fuel but its better than finding out the sedimentor is full because the engine stops Regularly refilling out of jerrycans can produce a lot of "orange snot" though... You don't need an airline just put it in a little pot of petrol with a small paint brush and give it a good scrub out, leave to dry and refit.

I have Simex copies (Insa Turbo Special Track) and they are not very good on very soft ground like we have here. Climb well, but the savage shoulder lugs cut in to soft peaty ground making you sink more than less aggressive tyres, and I find I'm having "errrrrrm" moments on stuff I used to toddle across with no problem on BFGs. Which is what I will be getting again next time around... SSwampers would probably be great but too expensive here!

Should have lip on either none or both ends on crank pulley, suspect it has broken off (they are only spot welded and do break) so you need a new crank pulley!

You are right, the older engines needed a full kit STC4095K including the timing cover and a new bracket for the injector pump plus all the pulleys etc found in the smaller kit for later 1997 engines. The way to tell is that if there is a lip on the crankshaft pulley (to retain the belt - as seen on the crank pulley in the thread Les linked to), you have one of the kits fitted, if the lip is on the tensioner/idler (I forget which one) then you don't... I have no idea how to tell if the timing case has been renewed for the big kit though The belt should not "sneak" forwards at all - the lip on the pulley should stop this? Can you post a pic of what is happening, have you got a mixture of pulleys fitted so that none of them have a lip? in which case it needs sorting out!

Ali for me, and no sign of any wear. Then again, soggy peat isn't very abrasive

I do mine as per Bowyer's instructions on his website for an eye splice. Had the rear wheels of the 90 off the ground pulling down on the front so I think it is strong enough...

Ugly.

I put something alloy in the dishwasher once and it came out all corroded up so I don't think it is a good idea at all!!

Bah Just remembered I have Rave on my laptop but they have nobbled it so you can't print it to a PDF However I happen to have a GTR login so you may find something in your inbox presently