BogMonster

The diff pinion seal and maybe the flange as well, if the flange is scored. Not too difficult to do AFAIK (never done one myself)

Only if you paint "27" on the tailgate in 2 metre high letters and fly an orange windsock from the truck cab

Make a new one out of AM2 matting the stuff they build temporary runways out of, I saw a 13 ton digger bouncing up and down on some sheets of it the other week and it didn't bother it much so it should be OK for a tailgate and about the right thickness

I think you can make explosives out of uric acid so presumably the excrement content of any particular piece of paper is indeed related to its flammability

So what you are saying is that it's a bit like English spelling, our cousins over the water get it nearly right but not quite...

Don't think so, because the CC should be "displacement" which should be the amount the pistons move in the bores, the bit in the heads doesn't get displaced anywhere. Anyway if the bit in the heads is only about 1cc per cyl that would make the compression ratio about 500 to 1 which it isn't think that is right anyway

Yes and yes. Cheaper ones are perfectly good, think Kumho 825s or Kumho KL41's for a good tyre at a good price, but I pay the extra and get BFG ATs for the Discovery because I like them, grip well on road, last for ever and never get any punctures. Grabber AT2s look good but I've not used them on any of mine. I think this is my fourth set between two different Discoverys and I'll be getting more when I wear these out, which should be quite a while yet

LRO cos it has 650 pages of adverts every month

The old 3.9 used to be quoted as 3947cc, the "4.0" is quoted as 3950cc. Methinks they just rounded it up and it's actually the same engine.... Edited to say I was bored so did some sums... and they are both wrong! The figures quoted in the WSM for a Discovery II V8 are Bore 94.00mm Stroke 71.04mm So... Swept area of each piston = pi x radius squared = 47 x 47 x 3.141592653589 (just to be precise ) = 6939.778 sq mm x 71.04mm gives you 493001.8 cubic mm x 8 cylinders gives you 3944015mm3 which is a whisker over 3944cc. I wonder if I could sue Land Rover for misrepresenting what they were selling me? - now I think about it, it does seem a bit short on power compared to what I was expecting

Don't know, maybe they are. The rear is a 4 pin same as in the latest civilian spec 110s, from the 4.6 Range Rover, but I don't know if the front is the 4 pin unit as fitted to some of the old V8 90s, maybe it is. I could do with a couple, judging by the noises my back diff in my 90 makes now, I can hear the planetaries talking to each other A couple of photos will soon tell the difference as they are easy to identify when out of the axle, the centres are completely different.

My 4.0 makes funny tappy noises too When you start it up when stone cold e.g. first thing in the morning, it is initially fine then after about 15 sec starts a tapping noise which sounds very like tappets but isn't. It lasts for about another 30 sec then shuts up, and doesn't do it again for the rest of the day. Never got to the bottom of it, it has been like this for probably 3 years now, never gone away, never got any worse. It worried the hell out of me at first but now I just ignore it.... I've often wondered though, if it is linked to the odd habit the engine has always had where it will drink about a cupful of coolant to get the level down about 1/2" from the mark and then not lose any more. So depending on the tappy noise it may or may not be serious V8's, odd things to own but I still love it The Tdi on the other hand makes a really loud rattly noise every time I start it up which indicates it is running normally

Ooh you wishy washy liberal you

The casting numbers are nothing to do with part numbers, I don't know why they even put them on as they just confuse the situation, much the same as the "part number" stamped into exhaust silencers which isn't the actual part number! If they really are Wolf ones they may well be 4 pin but I would say more likely to be standard 2 pin ones as I don't suppose Wolf ones are common. Not sure if the wolf front was 2 or 4 pin though. Do you have them out of an axle at the moment? if so post some pics up and we can soon figure out what they are

Nah never, the world would go into a funny orbit if it was that much Looks like a good day, shame I never get to these sorts of things

I went to look at some penguins today, the MWMC being a bit far from here An hour on the road and another hour off it (bit wet in places but nobody got stuck) to see these chaps: Quite a good day out despite the weather being a bit foggy

265/75R16 I run these on my 90 and you lose a little steering lock but not enough to worry about what sort of wheels? if white 8 spokes the offset will mean no problem with turning circle, if they are Discovery steels or alloys then you lose a little bit as I have on mine but as I said it is still quite satisfactory (mine has Tornado alloys on, normal LR offset whatever that is)

Yes, rears wear out first and inside pads wear out before outside pads. Always the inside rear pads, can be down to the metal backing while the outside rear pads are still 2/3 left. Many people buy a set of pads then just change the inside ones then change the inside ones again when they wear out again leaving the original outside pads then change the whole lot as a set the third time! Removing the guards probably doubles the pad wear rate here, I did it once on my old red 90, a set of pads evaporated and I put the guards back on quick! We have the same problems with the stupid tin guards breaking up (my D2 has done the same even though they are a much better design) but without them pad wear is huge. I remember when we got a new company vehicle about 4 yrs ago, the first 2002 on the fleet with the "new improved rear brake pads" (for which read "a bit thicker") Came back for the 1000 mile first service with no inner pads left on the back.... (this was mid winter and the roads were especially bad, but even so....). Some people using non genuine pads on older vehicles were reportedly wearing them right out in about three weeks!

Mo, If you have a 4 post ramp and a transmission jack, gearbox out. If you don't - engine out. Walfy 4 hrs is pretty good going!!!

And then you look at the Freelander sales figures and think how horribly disappointed they must have been Amazing though - but last time I was over there the things were everywhere, so you can believe it. Not that any of them ever look as if they get dirty - even less so than the 95% (or whatever it is) of UK ones that don't

I bet there are no 2004 Tdi's there and no I ain't coming - it's a bit far Anybody who hasn't been to Gaydon should take a look - it's well worth a visit. All sorts of stuff there - I went there a couple of years ago with somebody I know who worked for Land Rover, he took a morning off to show me around we went in there and to SV and a couple of other bits, but for some reason the production line was closed so I didn't get to look around that

We get quite a bit of that here - in the winter the muck on the unsurfaced roads around the islands will wear out a new set of rear pads in less than the service interval if the vehicle is regularly used on those road! So people driving around with horrible scraping noises is quite common, it amazes me how unobservant so many drivers are - when I can hear them coming at about 400 yards you would think the person sitting on top of it would notice!

Maybe got on a LHD train but then found it was actually a RHD one going the other way

NO and not only did I not win I didn't get a single bluddy number across either of my lines

Fill her up with EP90 too that should cut the noise down for a while

I don't recall anybody from over your way waiting for an invitation last time my place was visited ... which also answers the first question I think