BogMonster

Obviously not as much use as a snorkel, given they are all being replaced

Somebody said the other day that some sort of Toyota one will fit. Otherwise that is exactly what I will do, order the cheapest %%%%est ones I can find on the basis that they can't be any worse than the one I just threw across the garage.... the current crop of Gen ones aren't water proof, don't work most of the time, and now aren't oil proof either!! What a bluddy mess, it looked like I had run over the Exxon Valdez underneath and had to put the best part of a litre of oil in, it was full to the mark when I checked it only about a week ago so it must have all gone yesterday afternoon.

Pipe it into the beer tent at Billing and leave it emptying slowly Joking aside if you put helium into the tyres it would probably make them a bit easier to lift on to a roof rack or back door carrier! Or you could do what simonr has done and make a reservoir in your rollcage, except that instead of air you could use helium, just pump a bit in to float serenely over a bottomless swamp and then let it out again

If you need some home made balance weights you could cut a notch in a bit of 15mm copper pipe and hammer it on to the edge of the pulley

A while ago I posted about oil pressure senders not lasting very long I'm really getting &&&&&&& off with it now I had a new sender fitted a few days before Christmas. I had another new sender fitted in about the first week of January because that one packed up (sometimes no light, sometimes light stays on all the time). I had a new sender fitted yesterday. And this morning I have a puddle of oil on the garage floor from the "new" sender which now needs replacing again before I can go away for the day tomorrow..... Should I take about 6 spare ones with me just in case I wonder? This is just getting stupid!

I am getting sick of the diffs in my 90 All the new Land Rover 2 pin diffs are rubbish. The tolerances they have nowadays in making the planetary gears, pin and cage, are sh&te, no other way of putting it. Basically what happens is that everything is too slack and flaps around, so when you put a load on the diff the planetary gears actually twist slightly inside their cage - you can just about see it if you peer through the oil filler hole - so the end result is that you get backlash in the diff, and it makes horrible noises - mine makes a metallic "clink" each time you change from a forward gear to reverse - or vice versa - as the gears twist up (its really loud - somebody said to me the other day "what the hell was that!"). It's not a one off either - it happens on quite a few newish vehicles and my Discovery (which has the same sort of diffs) has the same "clink disease" when changing from Drive to Reverse and giving it a bit of throttle. So - I was wondering if you can get shims to go between the planetary gears and the cage to tighten up the tolerances of this whole unit? I haven't taken the diff out - no point as I know what the problem is already - but it seems to me that if you could reduce the slack in those gears then the problem would go away. It didn't used to be a problem on older vehicles (my old 90 had really tight diffs in even when I sold it with 77k on the clock). Obviously one solution would be to fit different diff centres like ARBs which might be better made to tighter tolerances (never looked at an ARB with this in mind) which may happen in the future anyway, but its a lot of money to fix something that shouldn't be rocket science to sort out - anybody tried it? Somebody once told me a long time ago that the old Series diffs had some sort of fibre thrust washer between the gears and the cage, does anybody know if this would fit in a 90 diff? would it do the job? any other ideas for sorting this problem out? Between that and the noises my friggin gearbox/transfer box makes I am starting to wish I'd kept the old 90 and spent the six grand on tarting up the bodywork and interior of that so much for buying a new vehicle so things would stop being wrong with it Hoping Mr Ashcroft will appear in particular what do you do to "recon" ones Dave?

Is it an auto? If it is it could be the torque converter drive plate. I saw one about five years ago which did something similar to this, the drive plate is a slightly flexible bit of (bluddy expensive) metal coupling the nose of the crank to the torque converter, looks a bit like the lid out of an old metal 5 gallon drum though! What happens to make a horrific knock at low revs is that the plate fractures around the crankshaft boss (there is an adaptor which bolts between the end of the crank and the plate), and a crack gradually spreads around the edge of the boss. With the engine running, and because the TC provides much of the "flywheel" effect on the auto, the natural oscillations of the engine revs at low speed make the crack open up and close again. It sounds awful, a bit like a gnome is trying to get out of the bell housing with a small ball-pein hammer, worst at idle and IIRC disappears by about 1500-1800rpm as the engine revs even out at higher speeds. Eventually I assume it will break completely which is probably going to make it a non-runner due to there effectively being no flywheel on the engine (not to mention a lack of drive!) though the one I saw had the TC just hanging on by about 1/2" of metal it just made the most awful noise.... Possible causes include the fact that they sometimes just break anyway but more commonly the fact that there are selectable shims that go either between the crank and the boss, or the boss and the drive plate (can't remember which) to set the position of the TC, and if you get those wrong it'll put a permanent load on the flex plate which will cause it to fail quite quickly I think. Given that the engine has been changed, I guess it is possible that whoever did it, didn't sort out the shims properly, but that is just a guess - worth checking anyway. IIRC the Tdi engines use 2 drive plates one for the TC and one for the starter ring so it might still turn over but not run - a V8 just uses the one plate which has the starter ring bolted around the edge. If it is a manual then none of this applies, unless the flywheel has fallen off but I've not heard of that being a problem!

V8 auto - brilliant on road just nail it and go superb in traffic or round town, good in some conditions off, but I'm not a fan off road really, at least not in the conditions I drive in V8 manual - terrible all round (too much backlash x too sharp throttle = massive irritation) I spent £2000 to convert my old Discovery V8 from manual to auto that says it all really. Tdi auto - terrible all round (too little power + too much lag x too much power disappearing into gearbox = massive irritation) Tdi manual - brilliant off road loads of control, engine braking, does what you want when you want it, ok on it but not a patch on a V8 auto Best solution if finances permit is one V8 auto and one Tdi manual, which is why I have exactly that Don't know about a ZF auto but you can bump start an auto Merc G-wagon but you need to get it up to about 30mph before it will work The diesel autos are usually quite a bit thirstier than the manuals because the engine is working flat out all the time, on a V8 I can't say I noticed much difference when I converted mine, maybe 1mpg or something?

I got an invitation to renew my "subscription" to them the other day (still getting the mags!) I haven't done anything with it yet but I was thinking of writing a note inviting them to shove the subscription up Richard Green's **** and sending it back

What happens if you stick 12 on the vehicle ... ?

Vehicle type is irrelevant, the bit that is the problem is electrical, here we call it "the connection between the seat and the steering wheel".... and that component can be defective in any marque!

Depends who you listen to but 255/70R16 or 245/75R16 are about the biggest you can fit without a lift, they rub a bit on some vehicles and not on others, seems to depend on which day of the week it was built on. 2" lift not sure, but you may have problems with the anti roll bars turning themselves inside out (the back one anyway) if you lift it. If it is more of a shiny I'd forget the lift as it plays hell with the handling, better to stick with std height and just whop a chunky set of tyres on if that's what you want

Very 'Devon 4x4' Mo

Hammer needs to be 3x size, that's all

Will when you go round to thump TC give him a smack from me for altering my posts

The real-ly edited one you mean? Give up, it was you, I recognised a couple of things

There's a http://www.fronteraowners.co.uk/ might be worth a look on there? the interweb is too slow here at the moment and I can't be &r5ed to wait for it

I think a moderator called white90 may have altered my original post In fact completely :P Fortunately there is an "edit" function though

"insert an 8274 insult here"

No, but as Steve said somewhere in the footwell is most likely. The Discovery ones are all in the drivers footwell in the panel above the pedals, the Freelander one is in the passenger footwell and the Defender is under the cubby box but that is presumably because Defender footwells usually leak

Another thing worth mentioning is replacing the snap ring with a proper circlip in case it ever needs doing again. Particularly if removed in the way Tony suggests.

Not usually a problem on 300s IMHO. It does look excessive on that though!

Eurgh, a diesel in one's Discovery, horror of horrors Good thread Les, tech archive in due course I think as it comes up lots

Nothing I am aware of besides the original recall on all Td5 flywheels up to a certain age. Must be driver abuse 6 year "warranty" is wrong I think, UK law has something or other about a manufacturer's limit of liability being 6 years for goods being "fit for purpose" or something - can't remember the exact detail/wording but I don't think it's the same as a warranty.

Makes you wonder why there is such a massive difference in cost doesn't it, given that it is presumably all made of more or less the same stuff One of the winch lines (is it the Amsteel Blue? I can't remember) is advertised as being originally developed for the marine industry so it must be quite similar.