=jon=

Hmm - interesting. On mine, the catches are at the bottom, and the sliding piece is recessed - the front slides behind the rear...

Slightly odd question, but on CSW sliding side windows on a 90, which bit is supposed to slide? On mine the front half of the window slides back, the rear half is fixed. To me, this seems a bit backwards, as the overlap between the two is subject to air pressure, and therefore water can be forced between them. Have they been fitted upside down / back to front at some point in their life? Thanks Jon

PCD = Pitch Circle Diameter off the top of my head. It's basically the spacing for the studs around the hub that hold the wheel on. Wrong PCD and the studs don't line up with the holes in the wheel

I had a look and can't see any recommendations in the search results, so apologies if this has been asked before... What's the typical route for running wires from the front to the back in a defender? I need to run a selection of things (speaker wire, exterior work light wire, heated rear window wire (unless I can find the factory wiring?), rear wiper wires etc) from the front to the back. The factory wires appear to go through the chassis and up through a grommit in the floor at the back. Is there an easy way to run additional inside the cab? I can get it from the fusebox under the tunnel insulation to behind the front seats, but further back than that I don't really have anywhere to tuck it away - the only place would possibly be under the lip of where the hard top sides join the tub, but it's still not that well tucked away... Any suggestions? Cheers Jon

I bought a hydraulic crimper from ebay when I relocated the battery from the engine back to the pick up bed of the series - it's probably a bit overkill for that though, it was something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FERRULE-CRIMPING-BATTERY-CRIMPERS-TOOL-CRIMPER-HYDRAULIC-4-70MM-/290649293182?pt=UK_BOI_Materials_Supplies_Electrical_ET&hash=item43ac0c417e

Slight bump as it's getting nippy out, and the fan in my defender is pants. Did you get any further with this Si? I swapped to a bilge blower on the series to try and get more air through, I did think of doing similar with two in parallel - one for position 1 on the fan, a second for position 2 - both forcing air into a Y piece on the inlet of the heater box.

Well, after a trip to Marlborough last night, it's now sat on a set of 265 75 R16 Dakars, on black modulars. Looks so much better than it did on the tiddly tyres that were on there Hmm - the front axle has the sticky out nut covers (similar to a series). The back axle (which is disk braked) has the rounded drive flanges. Is it likely to be a disco back axle then?

You can fit them to the radiator too - stops it getting scaled up... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magnetic-Water-Conditioner-Softner-Limescale-Descaler-/170681164194

Are you stationed at Dalton, as your location suggests? I can prob give you a hand if you need any help as I'm local...

Hi, They will need to be wired in parallel, yep - otherwise they will be very dim Personally, I'd up the size of the cable slightly (or drop the size of the fuse) - I was always taught that the fuse should be slightly lower rating than the cable as it's purpose is to stop the cable melting. I'd also run two cables, one for earth and one for the live feed - dependant on which landy you have earthing can be a problem - with two cables you can run the earth to somewhere like a fixture on the chassis and save some problems, rather than relying on the light bar being earthed properly. For wiring the spots up, I'd avoid chocolate block / Bodgelok connectors if at all possible - do you have a soldering iron? Solder and heatshrink is the was I'd do it, or crimp connections well wrapped in insulation tape if you don't have the kit. I'd probably also put a waterproof connector either per spot, or at the edge of the light bar so you can pull the whole lot off if you need to - something like an econoseal connector Hope it helps! Cheers Jon

I think that was a question to the previous poster discussing the forum where the LED lights seem to be a lot more common (and everyone seems to have very deep pockets!), not a comment on this forums demographic

If they don't fit properly then I can scrub them off the list then...

Just browing teabay for new wheels, and there's a fair few set of Boosts for reasonable money. In your honest opinion, are these going to look very out of place on a drab green, tatty looking 90? Are they more suited to the shiny countrified gent's landrover than my old heap, and should I look out for something dark and steel instead? What do you think? Never seen an older one on boosts, so any opinions / pics / thoughts appreciated

Ahh - I read it as per light. As you've said, as they get fitted to more production cars the price will come down - HID retrofit kits were a similar price a few years ago - now they are sub 50 quid...

£900 each? My 90 was only a bit more than one of those lights!!!

I thought 235s were the max on 6.5" rims - just looked at BFGs site and they say 6.5s are OK for 255s... Now it's just a shame that 255's are so expensive!!

It's a shame they don't make them any wider - much over 235 tyres and you have to go with wellers or modular rims

Just been out for the first time since swapping my sealed beams for the wipacs and the halford 'ultimate' bulbs lamps 'fings wot give off light' and the difference is incredible It's way better now, I can see where I'm going Although I seem to have blown a fuse wiring up the reversing light somewhere, as I've lost half the dash lights and a front indicator!

It's the ones Paddock sell that use the reflector to form the beam, not the lens - http://www.paddockspares.com/pm678-wipac-crystal-halogen-headlamp-conversion-kit-pair-left-hand-dip-uk-and-australia.html The old ones were sealed beam.

I've just swapped over the wipac clear lenses from my series to my 90 - with one of each in the wipac is considerably brighter. I also put Halfrauds uprated bulbs lamps in while it was all apart. When they were in the series I didn't notice any problems with beam pattern or dark spots.

The Chinese will build anything to your specification, and your budget - if you want good quality they can do it. A lot of the factories will make 'similar' stuff for a variety of customers - for example car coilover suspension - most of the aftermarket brands are all made in the same place, and are very similar apart from being sprayed different colours. The better (read - more expensive) brands have better internals and tend to last longer, but they all come out of the same place...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferruccio_Lamborghini

Cool - thanks for that

Well, today was interesting Bought some UJs to try and sort out the vibration in the back prop. Strip the old prop, offer up the new UJ, and it doesn't fit Do some digging on google, and it turns out there are two UJ sizes - 76mm and 81mm or something like that, and I've got the wrong ones.. Clean the crud off the old prop, and find a part number. Google said part number, and it tells me it's a FRONT prop for a 110 v8! After some more digging, it seems that someone has replaced the rear prop with a cut down front from from a 110! There's no point in fixing the UJs in something that's been bodged, so it's new rear prop time... Dingocroft (my local spares place, where the unused UJs come from) list an 'Allmakes' rear prop, is this likely to be carp, am I worth paying the extra for a GKN one somewhere else?

Tread depths being the same, it's 80.59cm vs 83.99cm diameter for the two, so just under an inch and a half different, so 3/4 of an inch under the diff. Not much difference really!