=jon=

Thanks for the replies. Now I need to work out if it's worth going for 235's or 255's - 255's about doubles the tyre cost for 1 1/2" extra clearance under the diffs... I need 5 of em too, as it's currently got very tiddly tyres on it!

I don't need it, nope - at most it'll have 235 85's or possibly 255 85's on it - will the latter be OK on standard springs?

Damn - another internet mystery we'll never get to the bottom of!

I have to ask, what was the fate of "Test Brick #1"?

Potentially stupid question - how do we tell if it's got caster corrected arms fitted? Front prop is phased at about 45degrees, rear was in phase, but taking it apart shows marks suggesting it should be re-assembled at 45 degrees. Does this mean it's the front prop off something else, put on the rear?

It's possible that the door switches have been added for the alarm, to make them operate the lights you will need to rewire them for this purpose....

Thanks for the replies. Dad's been looking at the props - the front one seems OK, but the back has tight spots in it, so some new UJs are required. I'll look for some longer hoses as well

Hi, I bought a 90 off here a while ago, after some work it's now on the road, but has a vibration at approx 50mph, which feels like it's from the prop(s). It was advertised as having a 2" lift, the distances between the spring perches are approx 11" front, 13 1/2" rear, which is up a bit on the figures for standard somewhere on here (10F, 12R?) With this amount of lift, am I likely to run into UJ problems and need wide angle ones? The 90 was laid up for a long time before I got it, so it's possible that the UJs are shot anyway, but if the lift is causing some of the probs it'd be good to know Also - with this amount of lift should I have longer brake hoses? It appears to have standard ones at the moment. Cheers Jon

Hi, This is local to me too so I'd be interested on where you end up going - unfortunately I don't think either the 90 or the Series are going to be mobile for Sunday so I won't be able to tag along... Cheers Jon

Try the ones in the back of the landy magazines - Lancaster, NFU, A-Plan (Thatcham Branch) etc

Hmm - interesting. I'm not fussed if it is a home made jobby, curious as to what it was so I can flog it... Harry - hard top made it down no probs - had to pack the undersides of the straps as they drummed against the LC roof with the airflow, after that it was a very steady 65mph down to my folks... Top fitted fine after being hosed out (!!), just waiting for the bottom fixtures that mount it to the tub to turn up then we can bolt it all down

First pic possibly doesn't work cos it's lifted from the exmoor website. Second is hosted on dropbox so possibly is being blocked by work...

Pic as promised...

When the starter on my petrol engine started to pack up it got slower and slower over time - to the point that it wouldn't stay engaged when starting. Changing for a replacement turned the engine over about twice as quick! Have you tried using jumpleads to bypass the bulk of the wiring, so it's directly connected to the battery? It should prove that there's no bad connections along the way.

Also be very careful when taking pics with a phone - most phones nowadays can embed the location the picture was taken in the picture itself (sometimes by default, sometimes via enabling it) - if you use these on ebay anyone can see pretty much exactly where the item for sale is...

Hi, I've just swapped from a canvas tilt to a hard top, and now have the stick set left over - however it doesn't appear to be a standard set. It looks similar in design to : (The exmoor / safety devices heavy duty bar set) In both design (4 point with the diagonal brace back to the capping) and tube size - however it's one piece & welded, not bolt together, and mounts to the standard tubes through the cappings, rather than going all the way down to the outriggers / cross member - it's a heavy duty stick set not a roll bar (or some bits are missing!) I've had a search and don't seem to be able to find anything similar - anyone got any pointers as to what it might be? It looks fairly substantial and well made, it looks to have been powder coated so is unlikely to have been made in someone's shed.. I tried to take a pic earlier but my phone managed to lose it, I'll add pics when I can... Any ideas in the mean time? Cheers Jon

Good idea... It might be worth looking at that - cheers

Ahh - typical. So the choice is knackered locks or wobbly handles... Great

I ran the old General AT2s on a previous vehicle and they were fine in all conditions including snow. The AT2s got me round the Abingdon 4x4 Festival pay and play course which was mud / wet grass / gravel etc. When the backs wore out I put the newer ATs on which were also fine - better than the AT2s on road (quieter at least). I didn't try the newer ATs off road, but although they look less 'bitey' all of the magazine reviews say they are better.

Hi, The locks on my recently acquired 90 weren't that great, it had a different key for each door, and the drivers side was worn enough to be able to be opened by any key... I bought some cheapy replacement locks, and now I have a single key that does everything, but for the drivers door it's still sloppy enough that with the right sized key and some wiggling you can unlock it still. My Dad seems to think that the bush that the lock barrel rests in is worn which causes the issue. I had a look at the parts catalogue: http://www.numcat.ru/landrover/p/31/52671/ But it doesn't look like it lists the bits as being available... Any suggestions - or is it a case of new door handles (or just put up with it!!) Thanks Jon

Hi, I've recently acquired a non-running LR 90, and am slowly working through all of the things to get it roadworthy again. It's an ex-military vehicle, RAF we think, however various bits have been changed over the years including the engine, which is now a Ford V6. As it's ex-MOD, I imagine it would have had a 2.5NA diesel in it? One of the things wrong is that the rad is holed, so will need recoring or replacing - what's the best rad to look to fit - is the 2.5NA rad likely to be up to cooling a 3.0 v6 petrol (including off road), or is something heavier duty the best option? If so - what will fit up with the minimum of bodgery needed, I did a search and there's talk of changing rad mounts etc to put other rads in... Any advice appreciated! Cheers Jon

Has anyone tried twitter? Clarkson / Hammond / Evans etc are all on it, might be a useful route to bring it to their attention...

I've just bought a defender that's had a 3.0 ford essex v6 transplanted into it. Are these actually any good off road then - I did some searching and the only opinions I could find were from one guy who said that they were rubbish off road as they had no engine braking and they'd run away down hills... (Sorry for the hijack!)

I drove a '11 Defender round one of LRs tracks, and the TC was a bit clunky, but effective - you could get it to go with diagonally opposing wheels off the ground - however to get the TC to kick in you needed to give it a lot of welly - then you'd get a lot of mechanical clunking and it would move off... On gentle throttles it would quite happily spin the lifted wheels...