=jon=

Hi Steve, Small World - I'm Andy G's mate that bought the tatty old trailer off you (or your brother?) a few years back... It's still going strong! Cheers Jon

Without a data connection from the SIM, how are you going to get the location out of it?

2 years is very, very impressive! Actually - you may get more life from a 9v battery with that unit - the ad suggests 20mA on standby, although it doesn't define quite what standby is (could be powered up with no network connection)..

Probably not long enough to be useful - google suggests a standard 9v battery is around 500mAh, a typical mobile battery is around 2000mAh, and goes flat pretty quickly when you have the GPS fired up - these trackers are pretty similar to mobiles with no screen, so I would imagine you'd only get a couple of hours out of it...

Try A-Plan, Thatcham Branch - 01635 874 646. I had problems with Lancaster trying to insure my v6 90 - I'd call, they'd have to consult with the underwriters and call me back... After me calling them every day for a week and getting the same answer and no calls back, I rang A-Plan as I've another specialist car insured with them, and they gave me an excellent quote

Does opening the hole up make a noticeable difference to the airflow? I had the heater box off over the weekend, I didn't even consider doing it!

The hole on my bulkhead is a lot smaller than the heater opening too.. (non TD5 bulkhead)

Easiest option would be to find one that's got a transmission adaptor plate already available, then the transmission side of it is pretty much plug and play... I'm not sure what kits Steve Parker still has, these guys: http://www.mdengineering.co.uk/index.php?act=category&cat_id=2 List a few Jap diesel engines too...

Toyota 1KZ-TE (3.0TD from a Surf / LC Colorado) with an intercooler is pretty close to 150BHP, reasonably simple and reliable - I put 100K miles on my old surf without having to touch the engine bar oil & cambelt changes, and it would tow a 2 ton trailer with no issues at all. You could probably go the whole hog and put the axles on too Other Toyota option would be the 4Litre something Diesel from the Amazon... There was a thread where someone had transplanted the Amazon engine and boxes onto a 110 somewhere - I remember it was a very odd setup with the transmission brake on the input for the rear diff... The newer LC's (2002-) have the 170-180BHP D4D engine which is great, but monstrously complex compared...

I used one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bilge-Blower-12v-Marine-4-In-Line-Exhaust-RULE-240-/330724874375?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item4d00bd1887

I'd order one either side - I think I worked out the resistance based on the current draw from the bilge blower, not the resistance of the existing pack... But either way, it'll certainly drop the speed of the fan down for you, depends how bothered you are about it being similar to the 'old' low speed fan!

I'd disconnect the battery, if you have a trickle charger stick it on that. Drain as much of the fuel out as poss (although I'm not sure if diesel goes off like petrol does?). Put it on axle stands so the tyres don't get flat spotted. Leave the handbrake off so it doesn't seize. If the location is secure, I'd possibly crack the windows a bit to get some airflow and stop it going musty (but watch out for things nesting in it, cough cough )

Just checked - it was a 2 Ohm I used

I replaced mine when I put the bilge blower on. I used either a 1Ohm or 2Ohm 50w wire wound resistor - I remember buying one of each to try, can't remember which one I used... Maplins sell them, or somewhere like ebay I screwed it down to the outside of the heater box to act as a heat sink...

I fitted a 4" bilge blower (about £15 from ebay) when my series fan packed up, with tumble drier hosing from the intake and onto the heater core. It shifted a lot more air but was hardly original looking... I also had to wire up an appropriate resistor to get the two speed operation too...

Hey, if it's good enough for the UN, it's good enough for me

That'd be you included then?

Britpart are just a reseller of other peoples stuff - some of it is OK, some of it is carp - you have to look at what you are getting for your money - for example a britpart drop arm complete with ball joint is £26+VAT. The OE (adwest, not LR branded) ball joint alone is about £20 on it's own. So assuming paddock are making a reasonable margin, as well as britpart, the cost of manufacture of that safety critical part is probably about a tenner, including joint. Sounds suspiciously cheap to me.. For something like brake discs, the price difference between britpart and mintex isn't so much, and you know they have to be made to a BS number. I'd say if you took the BP and the Mintex ones out of the box you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference - they prob both come from the same factory...

If it flaps about a bit, you could always do like the old truckers used to - put cord round the top and lightly tension it against something like the roof rack, won't flap about then

I think it's colour rendering index - the variation of the colour of light given off by two 'identical' LEDs..

My understanding was that you can't move other peoples stuff for cash - so if your friend was paying you to move their project you would need special insurance, possibly a tachygraph etc same as a commercial driver would. If it means I can't shift something on a trailer something as a favour for a friend, that's ridiculous!

I suppose I could chop a hole in the wing - should I need to remove the snorkel as long as I make the hole the right shape I could use the standard grille plate to cover it up... I quite like the idea of the wing top one though!

Hi, A snorkel is on the long list of things to get for the 90, but I'm a bit limited as to which I can fit, as I don't have the side vents in the wings... I've seen the Mantec wing top kit that uses the drivers side wing top vent, but it's, errr, pricey at just under 300 quid! Does anyone else make a cheaper option that uses the same pipe routing, or some other routing that won't mean I have to chop large holes in the bodywork? Cheers Jon

The hard top is off another vehicle, so who knows what it was originally from. It can wait for the time being anyway - next year we'll be respraying the whole car, makes sense to do it then

The joys of land rover ownership - undoing all of the bodges of the previous owners!