adam300Tdi90

I am (literally!!)just about to cut the rear wing panel on the TD5 rear tub i have. Basically i need to know the measurements. What is the distance from the bottom of the wing to the recess. and then how far from the bottom corner of the recess to the rear wheel arch (measuring horizontally). If anyone has time to annotate a picture with the measurements, i'd definatly donate to the forum! Huge thanks in advance! editted: i have a template of the hole i need to cut, but just need to know where the 300tdi recess is originally!

Very cool, is that the twelve monkeys symbol on the side there?

Haha, cool.. Land Rover 300tdi 90 Range Rover P38 4.0v8 (My mate's car)

take the themostat out and put it in a pan of water bring to boil (with thermometer) and see when (at what temp) it opens...

There are many reasons why defenders have a high secondhand value, besides what people have written above: They are very easy to part out, and with ebay and the like, secondhand parts have specific and high values, making the floor of the market for complete cars specific (and high) too. The second hand market for defenders is a minefield, the huge popularity makes finding a good, solid and reliable defender for little money near impossible (as if it is truly solid and reliable, very few land rover owners will sell!). This allows the cream of the crop to rise in value significantly. Then there are sellers that jump on this bandwagon advertising their car as the cream of the crop, with high prices but actually shoddy underneath. It seams like the market went through this and then the real, actually solid cars went up in value even further!

Sorry I can't help with your issue, I too have RRC seats ready to go in my defender. I was wondering how you fitted yours? (You can PM me if you don't wanna clutter your thread here?) My measurements have shown that the mounts are the same width.. is that right? Got any pics?

Thanks Western, I'll probably smear a bit of tiger seal between them then. Separate the materials?!

Does anyone know if Landrover fitted the rear door hinges to the body with a gasket of any kind? Or is it straight..... steel hinge bolted to Ali panel....? If you are meant to does anyone know the part number? Found these but I think they are for the front doors?

Right gotcha... Will the rubber provide some insulation then? (to stop condensation?).

Find the leak with a torch in hand (You will have to clean the area well.) Then depending on where you find the leak, either replace the fuel sedimentor housing or the entire pipe which has the leak.... etc... Access is available where you need it.

Is it me or have they somehow removed the wheel wells in the rear load space?

I just can't see the need to paint a land rover roof with rubberised paint. Do you stand on it all the time then or something? I wouldn't have thought that the roof would take someone stood on it without denting...

http://www.protectakote.co.uk/ Not particularly suitable on the roof though I doubt..?

Looks like that new Hummer to me...

Snow just started in Trowbridge, Wiltshire! Settling on the plain!!!!

I first made a tool as in the tech archive, but the thread in the centre stripped... (well ok the bolt snapped in there) So then I welded a thick piece of threaded bar to the cover and wound it out using large nuts, spacers (small weight lifting weights) and the new 4 bolt flange. Bit o' heat, came off in about 15 mins...

Me too (or three), who's in 4x4 response cornwall?!? Ralph?

Have a look here.... Gwyn Lewis Side exit exhaust

If you can't reach the rod through the slave cylinder hole... I'm afraid it's gearbox separation time... Don't panic tho'... Check what has happened to the slave cylinder etc. first...

Here here!

Use Timkin... they are very very good quality. I think genuine are GKN, but not exactly sure. I know the general concensus is to use Timkin...

I do mine by feel.... I take the gearbox backwards when I've done it in the past. You can get your hands in but you can't see anything! Much quicker tho in my experience

Frames easy but yeh it is un-necessary. The two bolts which go through the Ball joint unit might complain about being removed though!

Nah the frame itself is very simple to remove... It's just the ball joint you might have a problem with. Even with a press it took me quite a few tries on a few different days, with a good soaking of WD40!!

Thats him 'Yan the LandyMan!' Yeh he's in Bolton, drove mine all the way back to Wiltshire!.