adam300Tdi90

halfords sell them too

I saw this too, me and my mates were watching it. They don't know much about Landies, besides what I've prattled on about. However, they did say it looks tidy from the top, and they probably wouldn't know where to look to be sure it was solid underneath, so if you get a n00b to landies you're in the money (I do not condone this behaviour)! Plus I never actually saw the underneath in detail, you never know it might have been in excellent condition . I always think they buyers are actors anyway, but if he really sold it for £6000, I really am in the money!! Oh yeah and amazing coincedence... the guy he bought it from is the same guy I bought mine from! (In Bolton) Who knew V8s cost more than a 300tdi

People like people who are entertaining, fit slicks... make more friends

I've had special tracks on mine for about 5000 miles, no noticable wear so far.... (but yeh, i will probably have some road tyres too for longer journeys.) Currently they (insa turbo special tracks) are used everyday on the road but only as a 3 miles commute to work! Oh and they are very noisy, like a plane flying overhead!

Hope this helps.. I saved it for my rear matting measurements, but to repeat others, i'd measure your floor too...

That's where the lift pump is (on a 300tdi anyway, you don't say what version you have). Therefore as you have recently replaced the lift pump, my first thought would be that you are letting air in the fuel here... Of course this would also mean that the clear fluid you have seen is diesel. Try to tighten the lift pump fuel connections...

I was talking about gearbox too. And the flakes (read filings) are normal to a certain extent. If you buy one for the gearbox, surely you would have to take it out as the filings normally sick to the magnetic sump plug, or are you guys saying the fillings would definitely come out of the special plug..? Edited to add I realise that there isn't really an issue as all will have filters/strainer but it's best to ensure the sump is kept as clean and metal filing free as possible really isn't it?

Range rover classic seats, have the same width mountings as standard 90 seats, but shorter depth. I replaced the seat box covers with thicker steel. Used the front mounts to bolt through the seat runners, then the new steel plate, then into the seat box. The rear of the front seats mount through the new steel plate, and the rear of the steel plate bolts to the standard seat mounts. Easy.. But annoying you can't get to the batteries easily. I have used an 'Anderson' plug from one of the batteries just in case I ever have to jump it or somebody else... then you can buy (or make) some special 'anderson to battery clip' leads for jump leads...

Yes but the plug doesn't allow the small metal flakes out of the sump properly does it? I would use one too but it seems to me like you'd have to take the plug off anyway to ensure the sump is as clean as possible??

The fronts do have retaining clips... Instead of being straight bars, they have a bend in them to allow the damper to mount. Looks like a someone left something out....?

I have heard that the best paint for axles is any type of enamel paint due to the hard finish? Wiki Enamel Paints

Yes 'EXCESS' oil in the turbo pipes does hint at oil seals in the turbo being past it. However, unless this has caused low oil level for the bearings AND then caused damage to the turbo, this doesn't necessarily cause a loss of power. Have you tried to operate the wastegate actuator (Manually)? Does it seem like there is no boost at all? Make sure you don't have split turbo hoses. Make sure the wastegate actuator works (isn't 'stuck'). I've heard one can refurb a turbo oneself, but I wouldn't do it TBH. Recon/replacement second hand unit seems the best way to go. Hope this helps, Ad.

Sorry read lots of the ORRP thread today, just seen that he quotes "Julian Messent of LMB racing in Belgium" Isn't that Lara, from this forum. I'd love to hear/see what he has found after a few years? Again, sorry to post..

In Wiltshire it is roughly £130 for light and mixed ferrous metals scrap and £180 for Heavy metals scrap (engines etc)

A landrover show, would be your best bet... I got a bag full of free stickers at Billing..... Failing that, contact all suppliers by mail with a SAE enclosed and ask for them! They will be keen to send you them if you have provided the envelope and postage... Britpart don't do stickers, but if they did they'd be the ****est stickers in the world......

Did you lock-tite, and flange seal the bolts? I can only suggest that you try doing this and refit..

Definitely TDI? are you in RestOfWorld? It's normally a TD5 at this age...

No proof that you're not a nutter is needed, we have one in our workshop. Just the need to set up a direct debit.

Your weld will not be very good with Gasless (yes they all promise to provide a good weld). Get a proper MIG (Metal Inert Gas) welder. The gas sheilds the weld whilst it is molten and subject to contamination.

Had my Insa Turbo Special tracks for 3 years now, 20k miles on and off road... No issues whatsoever..

lol, new seals might be a good idea?

Some of the A-frame ball joints have grease nipples on them. But not the original equipment ones, so it's curious as to why it says to grease the 'rear suspension upper link' in the original service list. You don't need to grease the bushes, so it can't mean any of the other parts of the rear suspension?! Where does this service list come from??

Yes your Vacuum pump is broken the spring which holds the follower onto the cam has broken hence the free movement, this free movement allows the follower to come away from the cam and cause the ticking noice reported by you and the OP. You should change this as the free movement can cause extra wear on the cam lobe.

Why iPhone?

Show us the advert? Depends on condition really