adam300Tdi90

No really, they are cool

Two days to replace both entire footwell panels (MAX), which includes stripping most of the bulkhead to do it properly. I've tried giraffe and I don't like it. Must be what horse is like.

Well it's £40 just for the panels Here - YRM Metal Solutions. Then, perhaps a days worth of labour (more likey to be two, what with all the strip down needed?? Therefore at least 8 hours at £20 p/hour? I'd say you'd be lucky to spend less than £200. More likely £250 all in. If it takes them two days (it really shouldn't though), obviously more. All guess work however, when my footwells went I replaced the entire bulkhead, as I was rebuilding anyway (but I don't recommend that).

3M Shutz - Cheap on ebay. Dries to the touch in 1 hour, stays flexible so stones don't crack it.

What was the solution?

Surely they cannot sell brakes that are unreliable, I hate the safety conscious UK but, with it all legislated.... SURELY they can't get away with that.... SURELY?

Yes actually Can't comment yet however (Still building), waiting for it all to fall apart when I start driving it.. But it does look loverly..

Well here we go, surprise, surprise.... we were ignored. What actually is the point of emailing your MP or any government related outfit?? I'm gutted, as this case will have set a precedent (is that how things work here)? THE COUNTY OF WILTSHIRE (BYWAYS OPEN TO ALL TRAFFIC: LUDGERSHALL 30, CHUTE 32, 34 AND 36) (PROHIBITION OF DRIVING) ORDER 2009 Further to my previous email I am able to inform you that a report on the above proposal has now been considered by the Cabinet Member for Highways and Transport who has approved: - (i) A permanent Traffic Regulation Order be placed on the section known as Honey Bottom, Byways Open to All Traffic Ludgershall 30 and Chute 32. (ii) A non-statutory Public Inquiry be held, to obtain the views of an independent Inspector on whether to implement a Traffic Regulation Order on Byways Open to All Traffic Chute 34, known as Chantry Lane and Chute 36 to prohibit members of the public from using these rights of way with motor vehicles at any time. This decision may be accessed via the Internet at http://cms.wiltshire.gov.uk/ieDecisionDetails.aspx?ID=189 . The report reference is HT – 012 – 10. If you require a full paper copy of the report please email me with your postal details. Yours sincerely Hannah Bolwell Traffic Order Technician Traffic Order Team Department of Neighbourhood & Planning Wiltshire Council Tel: 01225 713402 Fax: 01225 713207 Email: Hannah.Bolwell@wiltshire.gov.uk www.wiltshire.gov.uk

I asked: Hi there, Very interested in the gearbox you have for sale, and the axles actually. Can you send me the numbers off of all the casings? Thanks, Adam No answer.. edit: Axles are no longer for sale i.e. he's sold them..

I would suggest getting a sniff test first surely? An overheat doesn't necessarily cause the head gasket to blow, I'm with Jason in saying that the oil could just be cooked, causing the tappety noises?

Your local farm shop should sell it in largish quantities. I got a 10 or 15 litre container for £15 i think. Mole Valley farmers. edit: although i can't find it on their website

I haven't painted mine for the reason that, regardless of how well you do your preparation prior to painting. The paint will eventually crack, once it does, it is a magnet for dirt and moisture. This will also hide blemishes that will turn to future scabs, which should be cleaned and attended to as early as possible. Plus I prefer the galv look, but this is a minor point in my eyes. The security issue is moot IMO as defenders, regardless of their chassis, have been going missing left right and centre round here.

C&G MIG course said 10-15 depending on breeze/draught

Unfortunately, as you don't have an engine crane, it really is (in my opinion) a garage job, the gearbox more than likely has to come off as the rear crank oil seal and/or gearbox input shaft seal (again more than likely) have to be replaced. Can you tell what kind of oil it is? I.e. MTF94(gearbox), Engine oil or Both? As I said though, either way, the gearbox has to come off (and some prefer to take the engine out!!)

If putting on big tyres (Anything bigger than standard 205 tyres IMO), don't bother with the disco Transfer box, if not then yes put it on (will make it very good on long distances). Diffs are the same ratio (i think), but may be stronger (more splines, spread the load) on the newer disco axles, depending on age of course. Cannot comment on other things needed though.

I have fitted a full set of flow flex bushes, but I have since seen people say the polyurathane bushes don't last, but i can't comment from personal experience yet (truck's not finished)

hahaha

I use them because bearmach won't sell to me!! Am I the only one? Should I say 'yes' to the question 'are you trade?'

Looks excellent. But, how do you 'flat back' chequerplate? That sounds like a nightmare!

Fiat Tipo... The substance of my message stands (perhaps not the recommendation though)

Feeling anal here, so apologies. But it's the 'Numax' battery from Tayna (a distributer) I'm going to fit a door in the front of the battery box, and have one Anderson connector which can be pulled into the passenger footwell. Can't think of a reason for needing any more myself (Obviously you may have other needs).. Securing the batteries can be done off the shelf by this product from D4x4 Or make something like it...?

Just my humble opinion, but in Britain, generally, wider tyres actually give worse grip off road, than narrower tyres. This is due to the fact that wider tyres will spread the weight over a larger surface area (Why MT's have large chunky blocks of rubber) This, coupled with on road rolling resistance being increased by wider tyres, I would recommend 265/75/16

Does the plug have a magnetic end? As in, when I am replacing the oil, I like to make sure all of the bits of metal are removed from the engine (I keep re-inserting the plug and wiping off the metal until no more comes out), how does the diff-lock drain plug cope with this?

Easy to 'lecture' after the fact I suppose, but it really does pay to make a bolt card. For anyone in the future doing a job like this, it doesn't take long, and saves a ridiculous amount of time when reassembling. More importantly, you know you have all the bolts absolutely correct See uncle les' pic from removing a timing case...

So as you can see Mark is a very nice guy, who is really on the ball when it comes to his business and his products.