ThreeSheds

Fantastic car to drive - I had a go in a mate's once and it was so-o-o controllable that I was drifting around bends within minutes. They really do go round corners like slot-cars! The only downside for me as a motorcyclist, was the dog-slow gearchange. I reckon it took a good second to engage the next cog - way too slow for this kind of the car... But maybe they've improved on that now?

How long before you have it ready for market? If I start saving now...

That's all, thanks

I once had similar problems with a Jaguar XJ6 box. Sitting at tickover and selecting drive then reverse alternately for about half an hour sorted it and the problem never recurred in 10,000 miles that I ran the car... Might be worth a try?

Hi, A few things come to mind: 1. Not done a servo on a RR, but have done several on other cars and it's always been a bolt-on replacement with no problems... 2. After having briefly driven a car (not a Range Rover I have to admit) with no servo assistance I would suggest that if your daughter is still driving it, then the problem is more likely to be reduced braking effect, since with no servo it took all my efforts to bring the car to a gentle stop. IMHO you certainly would not survive normal traffic for more than a minute or so with no servo unless RR's are different - or she is using the parking brake (which is obviously not to be advised). 3. First thing I would look for is a vacuum leak in the tubing: If you re-used the old pipe then maybe it has split with the man-handling around the unions, or possibly the pipe come adrift from the clamps and has chafed on something? It can be difficult to check for vacuum leaks with the pipe in situ, you may have to remove it and look for splits or cracks (even small ones can make a difference) and if it looks 'tired' then it would be best to replace it anyway... 4. Finally, it may be worth looking at the 'wet' side of the brakes. Don't let yourself get fixated in the train of thought that it has to be something that you have messed with. Although that is probably more likely, it could equally be that the now excellent servo has exposed a weakness in another area - popped a seal causing fluid leak on the discs? Worn out pads? Hope this helps Roger

I have used this before: (edited) Sorry - can't get the link working - just search for slime puncture on ebay and you'll get it... with good results which you can fit and forget (it says it's good for 75mph, but I used some in a bike tyre once, forgot about it and did a track day... 130mph and it was fine - I am pleased to report ) This stuff is the type that has little black bits of (I think) unvulcanised rubber in it and is really very good. Some modern cars don't have spare tyres any more since it is far lighter (and hence better for the planet in terms of fuel consumption) to have a small compressor and some of this stuff in the boot. Also means that since it has no spare, you can now get a set of golf clubs in an MX-5, which is (apparently) a big selling point The only down-side of this of this stuff doesn't work too well (if at all) on side-wall punctures. Still - with the average motorist only getting one puncture every seven years, and a large proportion of those being in the tread area, it's got to be an option worth considering...

Had to read this three times to check that I am reading it right before shouting: Please... No-o-o-o-o-o! By running the engine while in drive with one corner jacked you are risking severe personal injury from a whole variety of causes. The post higher up gives the method for testing the VC which does not involve running the engine: To check the v/c jack up one wheel with the vehicle in neutral (main gearbox obviously) wheels chocked and handbrake off. Grip the tyre at 3 and 9 o'clock and try and rotate the wheel. It is pretty hard to turn it - you will have to put some effort in, but it should turn slowly with a constant resistance. If it turns freely or not at all then the v/c is toast. Roger (TwoSheds)

Mine had 2 alarms worth of wiring in or around that spot, with one still in place.I decided to rip the lot out (I had had a separate immobiliser fitted for insurance purposes) only to find that the bloke that fitted said immobiliser had fed it from one of the now-missing alarm feeds... Took me 2 hours to sort the mess out under the dash and get it running again! If it's not too much of a mess then it's safest just to safely terminate the wires and forget it

What a fantastic place this is... Full of the spirit of co-operative effort freely given. Well done all! TwoSheds

Yes - this is what I was worried about - spending on chemicals and/or consumables and still ending up with paint in all the crooks and nannies Knowing my luck though I be the best quote I can get for shot blasting is higher than the hitch cost in the first place...

WoW! If' mine comes out looking half as good as that I'll be delighted! Shot-blasting it is then! Cheers

Hi, I have a rather sad NATO hitch that has seen 'a few' coats of NATO green in it's time and I am looking to clean it up a bit. Functionally it is fine, but looks a mess. So I was wondering - what is the best way of removing this paint? I was thinking a bucket of Nitromors, but don't want to shell-out if it is perhaps some kind of special stuff that paint stripper won't touch.. Any suggestions would be welcome please? TwoSheds

I can see my Range Rover on http://maps.google.co.uk/ :P TwoSheds

I'm lookign at a similar PDA solution myself (but 2nd hand cos I got no dosh...) and have looked at problems with running MM on a PDA with a satnav (like TomTom) system installed. I is certainly doable, and in some cases it can be easy, but some people find it 'interesting'. See http://www.memory-map.co.uk/board/index.php?showtopic=6711 for one such story... It would appear from my researches that running MM and TT at the same time is not possible - that you have to stop one program and then start the other. Unless anyone knows different? This would be a bit of an inconvenience when green laning perhaps... TwoSheds p.s. In the above link - which I have now read more fully - it says: Have now found the way to have MM and TT6 happy together on the Ipaq rx5935:- 1) default setting of GPS is COM1 at 9600 baud for TT , automanage active and COM7 as second port. (Use/ check GPS settings ) 2) Install MM and set GPS for NMEA and COM7 but set BAUD RATE at 9600 3) Immediate response and contact with GPS 4) Exit MM and TT will start OK. N.B. TT does not seem to respond if the COM1 is set to 4800 and neither does MM on COM7! ON NO ACCOUNT SET MM to Sirf, it can messs up the whole issue.

I just read the whole thread waiting for that comment! Sidewall strength and tyre section do play a large part in what is right and no rule-of-thumb will always work when totally changing both. Yes, but you won't always get wall to wall removal of the chalk - IMHO some tyres appear to be designed to have little or no contact at the outer edges... And I would also do a sanity-check after arriving at your ideal pressure... When all's said and done, tyre pressures are always a compromise and the absolute best pressure for a given car/wheel/tyre-type/ tyre-section/surface/temperature/load/driver/wheel <breath in again> will always be a moot point. TwoSheds. p.s. The chalk trick doesn't work for motorcycle tyres

Ooops - sorry! For some reason I got it into my head that you had carbs... Another senior moment I guess....

You don't mention cleaning the float bowls... Never had it on a car but my old Triumph Bonneville used to exhibit the symptoms that you mentioned, ie: It would lose power and almost die, but then come back after a period of very rough (would stall if I didn't keep blipping) running or would also come back after a 'rest' of a couple of minutes. This was generally caused by running at high revs or by sudden jolts. The problem was manky water in the float-bowls getting disturbed (in the case of high revs - by the vibration. It was a Triumph ) and being sucked up into the main jet emulsion tube. I did have a slightly similar thing on a car, although in this case it was not triggered by bumps and although it could be brought on by high revs, generally it was a random occurrence. In this case it was the crank case breather producing gobbets of emulsion and spitting them straight into the carb mouth. This would cause sever loss of power (although it would tick-over fine) and would clear after maybe a minute. Good luck with it... TwoSheds

This is what we used when I used to work in the explosives industry - PVA. Although it was supplied as floor sealant rather than wood glue it is the same stuff. When applied it is white and water soluble, but overnight it dries to a clear sealed surface that can be mopped down. Not particularly hard wearing (we used to re-apply every Friday afternoon IIRC) but cheap... TwoSheds

Mine's an ex-govt desk made from 1" box with massively strong and free running drawers and a 30mm worktop. The vice has been fine so far bolted through that top with a couple of spreaders. Whole lot cost: Desk £30 from 2nd hand office furniture place, vice (Record 3") £10 off fleabay... Only drawback is that it's HEAVY - like you need to strip the drawers and top off it and move them as four separate units.

Wouldn't the fault code be logged in one of the ECUs with date/time details?

I assume you are thinking of the viscous fan here? If so then that is wholly contained within the body of the fan - what you are looking at here appears to be a hole in the pulley body... Caused by goodness knows what but I would say that this IS damage and that it should be changed. Good luck getting the fan off... TwoSheds

I know little about large scale business, but it seems to me that LR would be better owned by Tata - a limited, but successful in their own sphere, motor manufacturer than a "private equity buyer" who will look on this as purely a way of making a quick buck... TwoSheds

Hi, In the late 80s (I think) there was a serious piece of kit around called the 'Strange Rover' that was built by Alvin Smith Garages. They had a RRC chassis with the engine & transmission turned about so that they were behind the driver (the gear lever was still in the same place, but with a reversed pattern). The front and rear axles were then turned upside down to correct the direction of travel. The whole thing was then topped off by an enormously beefy tubular space frame with aluminium infill panels that together formed the minimalist bodywork. This effectively made a Land Rover based, mid-engined off-road racer which looked the dogs danglies Thinking about these last night (have to do something when I can't sleep ) and I was wondering: Does anybody still run one of these? Why did the concept not catch on - is it not as good off-road as a standard layout? Anybody got any pictures of them? Cheers TwoSheds

I like it Did you do it yourself? How long did it take? Got any build pics? TwoSheds

Dead rat/bird etc in the air filter? Just to balance some of the (very sensible) advice given above - my 3.9 EFI stood for 2 years on the drive and fired up on the 3rd ten-second crank and stopped smoking after 30 secs or so - with old fuel and most of the ignition system old, pattern and ****ty.... (although it did miss on one pot for a while but I put that down to a stubborn tappet) If fact it was that V8 roar that convinced me not to scrap it TwoSheds