ThreeSheds

I didn't build it myself but I have a trailer built on a cut-down caravan chassis. It has an 8'x4' load made from angle-iron and lined/walled with 10mm WBP plywood, a drop-down tailgate with a built in ramp for my motorcycle (which works perfectly well for wheelbarrows) and overrun brakes. It looks like this: It is the same width as the RRC and it tows BEAUTIFULLY! I can't even tell it is there unless I look in the mirror No bouncing or crashing around, just smooth and controlled. If you are going to make one yourself this could be a good way to go... TwoSheds

There's 3 versions I have used: diesel, petrol injection and petrol carburettor.... And yes, they all really do work TwoSheds

I thought that copper-nickel is the stuff to use, a bit more expensive but doesn't work harden (due to vibration) like copper? TwoSheds

Last night I did a quick check on several lighter-plug PSUs and found that in every case (with no load) they were giving .5v to .8v higher than quoted. I don't think that these things are particularly well specc'd

Sorry - I don't get what you are saying here... Could you explain further please? I am just in the process of fitting a new coupling through the upper wing area of the RRC - I hope this is ok? TwoSheds

I have a similar problem - laptop wants 16v. My solution (which I will be trying this weekend) is to stuff a nominal 12v on it... I would be very surprised if it doesn't run (especially since the Fluke shows 12.3 minimum and 13.34 with the engine ticking over...) I think that CPUs run at much lower voltages (around 6v ?) so I am guessing that there is some kind of solid state voltage reducer in there anyway. But when all's said and done, if it doesn't run I have lost nothing, and if it does then I have saved myself a few squids... TwoSheds

Best of luck...

I think I've got some of those on an old Interossiter in the shed...

Some jokes can go nastily wrong... But we still have to do them ay? A little OT but: I was cycling with friends a couple of weeks ago and came across a flooded ford: The water was maybe a foot deep and flowing VERY fast. Anyway - we found a footbridge hidden in the trees to the right of the pic and so, after crossing it I positioned my bike as though I had just come out of the water and when the others when arrived I shouted "Come on... It's only 4 inches deep!" Well of course nobody even thought about it. Big laugh Next to arrive was a friend acting as support in his brand new MX5. Since he couldn't see the water too well due to the bonnet and the sudden dip in the road at the entry to the water, when I shouted the same to him he trusted me and started to come on Only frantic screaming from everybody around stopped him - but by then the water was already up to mid bumper... Anyway: He backed out OK and no damage done We had a good laugh about it after - but the thought of it still makes me go hot I can tell you. TwoSheds

OMG!!! SO DOES MINE!!! TwoSheds

I enjoy trying to make babies - but so far have manage to be a complete failure TwoSheds

Now - Oracle/VB developer. And in no particular order: Also been: Production Engineer in aircraft components factory Also been: R&D in warheads Also been: Toolshop technician Also been: R&D in linear charges Also been: Quality control in pyrotechnics Also been: Progress chaser Also been: R&D in nonel type cord and gassless delay detonators Also been: Bin man Also been: Live firing range surveyor in Saudi Also been: Street sweeper Also been: Cheese maker Also been: General labourer Also been: Trainee accountant (too boring, never qualified) Also been: Explosives Engineer (various contracts) Also been: Fork truck driver Also been: Delivery man (RED van man in my case) Also been: Occasional escort... (expenses only - no pay for this one)

A picture is worth a thousand words...

Photos would be nice... TwoSheds

I can imagine 'Time Team 3000' trying to work out what it was without a clue from the context because there will be nothing else left...

It's been there so long that they've painted the yellow line along the side of it! Or do you only work on it outside the hours of "8am to 5pm Monday To Friday"? I like the 235x85x16 axle stand TwoSheds

Nice idea - if you don't mind I'll copy it one day Also nice to see somebody with a garage in a bigger mess than mine (Actually, to be honest, I tidied mine up yesterday It took me 4 hours, but don't tell the SWMBO or she'll say that I have to move the RRC seats out of the back bedroom! TwoSheds

That's it really - is there a correct direction for knocking the pins out of the tailgate hinges on the Range Rover Classic? I have hit mine from both directions and they haven't budged a millimetre... Thanks TwoSheds

Oh dear! Rules of moving house: 1. Always trade UP (to a bigger/better workshop) 2. Ensure that you have enough space to get a 110 with Ifor Williams in, turned around, unloaded and out again (even if you don't have one) 2.1. Ensure that you have enough space to store at least two 'spares' vehicles. 3. Ensure that the new neighbours are a: deaf or b: far enough away not to get upset by grinding on a summer Sunday afternoon. 4. Ensure that the proposed gaff is within MSD of the nearest (real ale) hostelry... Personally - I think that the worst thing about working outside is having to clear up all the tools when it rains... I don't mind ME getting wet but I won't have my little beauties harmed TwoSheds

Welcome Joe, and good luck with the clutch job. Let us know how you get on TwoSheds

Here y'go... Se what ideas you can glean from my garage/workshop TwoSheds

The standard Land Rover difflock operates between the front and rear propshafts (it is inside the transfer case) and it does only lock the front to rear axles and (due to the differential in each axle) you can easily get one wheel per axle spinning while the other sits doing nothing. This is why people spend loads on lockers or LSDs - once you have lockers then you have to get all four wheels spinning before you lose traction. A normal car (or Land Rover with difflock disengaged) only has to spin one wheel to lose most of it's drive. A Land Rover with (centre) difflock engaged has to spin two wheels (one on each axle) to lose most of it's drive. A Land Rover with (centre) difflock engaged and axle lockers engaged has to spin four wheels to lose most of it's drive. Now - wind-up: With the central diff locked, wind-up is due to the front wheels traveling further when going around corners than the back wheels. ie It's front-to-back wind-up instead of side-to-side. If you drive on a grippy surface with the centre diff locked you will experience premature drivetrain component wear and heavy steering - and maybe other handling related symptoms. Hope this helps. TwoSheds

WD40 is great for getting things going, but not too hot for long term lubrication of exposed linkages - I find a spray with motorcycle chain wax (I use Castol - works really well and has the best applicator) works a treat. It comes out solvent-thin so it gets in between the links, it lubricates ok and has an anti-corrosion additives, keeps out water, and doesn't attract too much muck. TwoSheds

Well my new Teng flarenut spanner wouldn't shift the remaining unions - not even the ones that I hadn't chewed yet! Heres the valve block on the car (with the remains of the original problem nut): So-o-o-o I cut off one pipe at the valve block and managed to undo the remaining two at the other ends using a 4" mole-grip. I then transfered the block to the vice where I was able to remove the (cut-off) unchewed one with the moles: But the other one (which is seized into an M12 adapter, and was the original problem) would only come out after I drilled the middle and used a large stud extractor. I had a 10" adjustable on the extractor and I reckon I put on a good 50ft-lbs to shift it Anyway - I now have the block off and all unions that need to be-parted. So tomorrow it's off to get an M12x1mm 3/16 union to replace the current nut/adapter setup, and then we're on the homeward stretch - no more surprises I hope! Here is a comparison between a normal M10 flarenut and the butchered M10-in-an-M12-adapter that I took out (and will be replacing with a straight M12 flarenut) BTW - anyone know offhand what torque should be used on flarenuts? TwoSheds

Best I could get was a Teng - I'll be going out in a few minutes to try it... I'll let you know how I get on.. TwoSheds