Quagmire

The centre diff works just like an axle diff when not locked. For a min imagine looking down at an axle from above, with the left hand wheel locked- you would be able to turn the right one if it was up in the air. Now take that image and instead of left and right wheels you have front and back axles. Same idea. By applying the handbrake you are locking one side of the diff (if diff lock is not engaged). You are therefore still able to turn the wheel and the propshaft turns even though handbrake is on.

The NGK's I have in at the mo are over a year old which means that they have probably done between 15 and 20,000 miles so far. I dont routinely change plugs, rather when the mood takes me. I've never had a plug fail on me from age. The general consensus is that the standard NGK plugs are the best option... One of the more senior members can probably give you a figure on expected plug life, or you could take a mooch around www.v8forum.co.uk and see what they say. *Should point out that Mike has stated the correct model of plug, my fingers hit the right keys, but in the slightly wrong order...

I have run Champion, NGK and the Denso equivalent of the NGK's in my 3.5 with no issues. OEM leads are totally fine as long as they are kept clean and separated properly (especially 5 & 7) and people who tell you that you need million pound magencor leads or the like and super whizzy plugs are talking poo. I am currently running NGK BP6RES on home made leads powered by EDIS coilpacks. No problems at all. LPG and petrol both run perfectly. *edit - to answer your question on longevity I ran my OEM leads for a long time with no problems, some 20,000 miles or so- some went even further after I fitted EDIS as they were still in place with totally bodged on adaptor ends to allow the rover ends to connect to the EDIS coils... that "temporary" solution lasted about a year at least...

I bought an unused genuine LR radio fitting kit which sorted out the headunit. For the speakers I removed the pressed ally cover bits that hide the wiring for the lights in the back corners of the tub. I made replacements out of mdf (well sealed against moisture) with speakers mounted in them. Edges protected with aluminium angle to stop me taking chunks out of them when loading/unloading. Painted green to match the interior of the vehicle you hardly notice them.

I think the round heavy bit is probably the harmonic damper thingy. Not sure what the wire does in terms of the entire units operation- I took the whole lot off the Disco axle I recently fitted to my 90, no problem.

Al- I vote for you doing it yourself and creating a thread on here for the tech archive Just take your time, and do it once, don't rush like I did with my LT77 and do it twice

Also- for part numbers and such (as per your caliper thread) its probably worth downloading the landrover parts software "microcat" that way you can pop in the appropriate vin, or model year and get the right part numbers... Hosted by Mr Retroanaconda with instructions here: http://www.retroanac...-november-2009/

Like Maverik says - search first, otherwise you risk Fridge coming along and reminding you . Other than that, no such things as silly questions, just silly answers (and we do get them from time to time even on here).

Shouldn't be too hard, my Dad managed to find someone willing to tow his 101 back from Yeovil when he first bought it. Was just some dude with a big-ass Transit van and a massive trailer. Not sure how he found him though. The 101 had a MOT but was running on 4 cylinders and the brakes were non-existent, so I think the MOT came from a pub.

Not a series box I know, but I did my LT77 (twice) - and that was do-able with the info on here and the LR manuals. Make sure you have the space, the tools, and more importantly the time. I foolishly fitted a spring wire in the wrong orientation when I did my box the first time and that caused it to stick in 4th after about 500 miles. I was in a rush. One tiny mistake, a whole lot of extra bother. Don't let this put you off- just pay attention to what you are doing (unlike me) and you'll be fine.

Driving a bus how? With a knackered front axle and worn front bushes my 90 was like driving a boat certainly , but not a bus. New bushes all round and rebuilt axle and it is now good and precise again.

Also check breather on top of the axle casing is clear. I usually check mine as soon as I get any spotting on the rear door and find one of them is always clogged. Not sure why this happens - both have nice nylon pipe fitted that is extended up high out of the crud. Does do a fair amount of mileage though.

Nice one!

She does actually like to ride around in them, but isn't into the spannering side unfortunately. She tolerates my hobby well for the most part! That made me laugh out loud! Nice one Mike! Thanks to everyone for the replies - 101 stays as the top table, it runs on gods own fuel and has the correct number of cylinders... *flame suit on

I just use bog standard mineral 20/50.... As for how much, its something random like 13ml?

Here it is: http://www.sendspace.com/file/vcx9uq Enjoy- file is roughly 60Mb.

Will post a link to a copy of the Weber book on all carbs (includes SU's and Strombergs) shortly...

Tops of the carbs have little plastic things you unscrew and remove- these are the dampers in the dashpots that damp the movement of the piston up and down in the carb body. You need to have clean oil in these or weird things happen, so unscrew a damper, and if no oil then add a little bit (like a teaspoon or two) and re-insert the damper. If you do remove then do not mix them up with each other! Do one side at a time.

Haha! The table names were her idea actually I am a lucky man indeed...

Mr Wabbit- you sir are a legend! Your google-fu is strong indeed! Many thanks :i-m_so_happy:

I feel like a right spammer, two topics in one day... Anyway, the reason for this post is that I am getting married in a couple of weeks and the tables at the reception are all going to be named after various landrover models. I am therefore looking for some images of the various models, if possible the black and white line drawing style a bit like you find on some of the workshop manuals, like the two below: My google-fu is obviously weak at the moment as I have pretty much struck out. So if anyone knows where I can get similar images for any of the older models (any leafers, Range Rover Classic, Maybe 90/110) it would be much appreciated. The top table will obviously be 101 Cheers all

I think your probably right, the headphones would normally be listening to one environment (the bus, plane, train, car, whatever) and then playing the reverse waveform in another closed system (your ear). No idea what would happen when it began "hearing" it's own output. The way 5th sounds on my vehicle I could just bolt the microphone to the gearcasing and that would be 99% of my noise gone Funnily enough I was looking at them as the Mrs and I have to take a trip up to Nottingham soon which is a trip of around 180 miles from us. I thought I'd get her a pair so that she didn't complain about the lack of soundproofing in the 90.

Was idly googling this morning for other stuff when I came across a pair of active noise cancellation headphones by phillips, for the price of £20 (Amazon)... I had previously thought that these were much more expensive normally. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-SHN2600-10-Cancelling-Headphones/dp/B003Z0CD0W/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1336902610&sr=1-1 So this got me to thinking - my stereo head unit has a stereo jack on the front as an input. Is there any reason why you couldn't somehow hook the output of the headphones into this and play the noise cancellation waveform out the stereo?

I would offer to help but am literally up to my eyeballs in wedding preparations - i've only managed to sneak on here while I eat my shredded wheat Go to Dunsfold? Or is it running so bad that it's undriveable?

On the subject of swapping for rear discs, I did this and think that the braking efficiency is about the same as drums in normal driving. Where you really see the difference is the lack of fade on long hills or when towing. However if off-roading a lot then discs offer less maintenance probably?