Quagmire

Mine is in battery box, the Ms is on rear bulkhead behind rear passenger seat

And a bonnet lock with a key on the front panel mine doesnt work though

Nige- I have piles and piles of injectors, all I need to do is find eight that flow the same and dont leak when closed under working pressure. Pintle caps, filter baskets and o-rings can be had for not much money so I figure its worth a go. I will post results when all done, which may be a while yet.

Equal measures of both at times, but ordinarily I would say 80% enlightened/ 20% confused...

Google around and you'll find loads of links on making your own rig- my Dad and I are in the middle of building one with an old mitsubishi plc, an old loom, fuel rail and some measuring cylinders. Plan is to blast redex and what not through old injectors and flow test them after to get an evenly matched set...

Excellent! Welcome to the club of the enlightened!

Load sensing on standard stuff is usually done by MAP. if you have a very lumpy cam then you go for TPS.

I reckon around 18-20k miles a year in my old 90. Runs a 3.5 on LPG so cheap by v8 standards but still not great when compared to say my wifes 2011 Polo. However I rationalise this as I would go mad sitting stuck on the a3 everyday if I wasn't driving my biggest hobby Having got the Megasquirt bug a diesel is probably out of the question but perhaps a nice MGB with a rover T-series or something in it would be good. Tinkering potential...

Could you open a base map for ms1 in TS and then export the tables, before importing them into your ms2 project? You could take a 3.9 map and scale it up slightly or a 4.6 and scale down? You'd have to input all the other settings manually using the stare and compare method... I think that figuring out ms2 or ms3 can only be a good thing! When I am totally happy with my ms1 and when funds allow I am sure i will make the upgrade- what else would I have to tinker with otherwise?

You could also pull one of the "cold" plugs and see if it is wet with fuel...

If you search on here you will find some starter maps, or go over to www.extraefi.co.uk and go to the downloads section. There are various maps there to get you started.

Do the exhaust header test nige suggested- you might have a stuck injector. With the engine running feel the injectors one at a time, if they are opening you will feel a definite clicking. 7 of mine were stuck closed when I first tried to fire up! A sharp tap to the injector body with a soft drift and a hammer soon freed them off.

Hammerite is great stuff - on railings, gates etc and other things that don't move. I've found that on landrovers it just tends to chip too easily.

Ah- could be! Clarification needed

Pretty sure if you use enough velcro you could secure anything to anything- my question would be how do you tension it down snugly like a ratchet strap?

Thanks for the confirmation Mr Geek, good stuff Anyone else?

Guys, Whilst idly surfing the internet in my never ending quest for further fuel injection theory I came across this on a miata/mx5 forum which I thought would be good for us MS1 users who lack the injector test mode of more up to date MS releases: http://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuning-54/how-find-your-injector-dead-time-56061/ I gave it a go and I got a dead-time value of 0.792ms for my Flapper type injectors. Has anyone tried it? Would be interested to see what you got in comparison.

Hey, I feel your pain - I had a similar thing on my 3.5 - 10 bolt heads on mine but I was being foolish and fitted Britpart head gaskets (sssshhhh, dont tell anyone ) one leaked at the front- and not just a little bit either, it was pouring out! I ended up dis-assembling and refitting both (even though the other was ok) with Elring gaskets. Weird yours leaked! Have you reused old head bolts- and if so are you sure they are not the stretch bolt type? To actually answer your question - no the outer bolts don't enter the waterways...

Laptom- I will be keeping the fuel change over switch that is part of my current installation (as it is also the lpg fuel gauge). This switch already shuts off the lpg when the engine isnt running. Everything else *should* be as described... time will tell!

Definitely!

Oh yes - need to find out if I can use a standard pressure sensor to monitor the LPG or if I am likely to create a large smoking crater by doing so. Thoughts anyone? Thanks!

Sorry for the delay in updating. Right, so using the below circuit you *should* be able to add another input for MS to read (usually used for things like oil pressure, fuel pressure etc): http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Datalog_Manual.htm#addgauge So if I have a MAP sensor monitoring the LPG injector rail I can feed the output of that into the MS using the circuit above. Then the MS can trigger one of its outputs based on the readings seen from that sensor - so at the point that the tank is about to run out and pressure falls away. Then all I need to do is build a circuit to act as a series of AND gates - probably with a bunch of transistors so that the LPG is only armed when: 1- Coolant is up to a given temp (or alternatively this could be forgotten if a resistor is used in its place and therefore bypasses the warmup problems described in point (1) above. 2 - Pressure in the LPG rail is high enough (solenoids would have to have been opened to allow pressure into the rail before the injectors are triggered). and finally: 3- The fuel changeover switch is set to the LPG position. Then when all these conditions are met the following needs to happen: The positive feed to each set of injectors needs to change across. The map switching pin needs to be earthed so that the MS begins using the LPG spark and fuel tables. Simples!

Ta Fridge

Your setup will be the same as mine (will be). - forget the throttle heating stuff, leave those off. -Will have a "normal" stat housing going to top of rad with standard top hose. - bottom of rad to water pump with standard bottom hose. -heater outlet you have highlighted in red box goes to heater. - heater return goes to one of the ports on back of pump. -barbed connection on passenger side goes to one of tiny pipes at top of rad. -other tiny rad connection to expansion tank. -manifold bypass goes to other port on back of pump. That should be it- is covered in my v8forum thread (same diagram as Fridge has put up)

Checkout my "i know - another cooling layout ..."thread on v8forum - diagram in there might help as i started that thread due to the fact that I will be swapping my flapper style manifold to one the same as you have pictured above.