Quagmire

Using the minus ten setting will make it follow the intended ignition map. If your base timing is correct (I.e it idles at a physically confirmed 10 btdc if you were to set the entire table to 10's) then you will be seeing *squints at phone* around 10-12 degrees advance at idle from the picture above. This should be fine, but you must confirm your base timing is OK with a "dumb" timing light. I have a bit more, as I adjusted timing to get max rpm/lowest map and then backed it off a few degrees.

+1 here for Bowie's method- no problems here

I wouldn't worry too much about how much water vapour a v8 produces, I have to back out of my space in the mornings- a distance of 40ft or so and sometimes its hard to see anything in the passenger mirror due to the amount of vapour being generated!

I think perhaps any future threads of this ilk need to be strictly moderated to only provide users real experiences of a specific part. Any generic "manufacturer x's parts are are made of cheese" posts should be removed... That way we might end up with some useful threads on what parts are good alternatives to genuine, and which ones are actually a false economy.

Mine doesn't heat the throttle body, that's disconnected. The manifold output runs straight back to the rad. I guess we'll have to agree to disagree!

Zim- I have mine connected back to the rad for two reasons: 1) its easier to do than blanking them off (if you have a length of hose to hand). 2) I reckon anything that helps bleed air has to be a good thing. Having said that I've never had an air lock anyway..

Sorry - last post was from my phone Yes, use "Save as" and save the new MSQ with a new filename, I usually use the date followed by a number if I have done more than one in a day. i.e: 03_03_2013_001.msq 03_03_2013_002.msq 03_03_2013_003.msq That way you never lose a tune and can go back to it if you need to. I sometimes break from this convention if I have made any major changes to the tune that I want to remember. If you were just to use the "Save msq" option it would save over the msq you just analysed- which could cause you to come a cropper if the ve analyze went fubar and cocked things up at all - happens, computers are not infallible.

Mike, Yeah connect that pipe. You do you the ve analyze, accept the changes and then you have to save the file as a new msq. You have to then open this in mega tune or TS and burn to ecu.

Can't get the vid on my phone, but if its a stumble/ hesitation when you poke the throttle its probably accel enrichment settings. You tune these once you have your ve table dialled in.

If megatune has been working lets stick with that for now and not introduce any other elements to the equation for the time being. I wouldn't auto tune your idle - I set mine manually and let auto tune do the rest of the table. I just tweak the group of cells around idle up or down to the point that is peak rpm/lowest map. This means that my AFR is generally richer at idle than I would like, seems anywhere between 13.5 and 14 suits my 3.5 best. I'm not sure how MS itself would cause the hot running unless running v lean or spark is very retarded. Has to be an airlock or plumbing problem. Got anymore shots of your engine bay overall so peeps can check? Don't give up - it'll be worth it in the end.

Will keep my eyes peeled (Farnham) and let my dad know too (Weybridge). I hope you get it back it looks very smart

Cyanogen on my old HTC desire actually improved its photo taking abilities from stock!

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=77496

Finally the thread goes up! Having been out in this I can confirm that it is scarily fast. Would beat my MS'd 3.5 powered 90 easily I reckon. The sensation of acceleration is like being punched in the face! Good work When you MSing it then?

....and I meant that as me learning something new...

Every day is a school day as they say!

The only fail safe I know of was the one where if oil pressure dropped then the ignition is turned off- this got my brother once when he drove to college one morning in my dads 101 with a low oil level. Conked out halfway down the dead-end lane to the school

Totally agree! What I am saying is that as I am able to attain atmospheric pressure (or close enough) under high demand situations I think my engine is able to ingest all the air it wants- i.e. there is no restriction from the filter and without going forced induction I wouldn't get anymore air in there anyway as the engine wouldn't draw it.

Not arguing that bigger filter can is better- it must be, but at WOT my map reading is definitely in the high 90's - surely a restrictive filter manifests as not being able to get atmospheric pressure when your foot is to the floor at fairly high revs? I am probably not seeing a restriction though as I only have a little 3.5

Most expensive bit was silicon elbows.

Some pics of mine here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78782

I have used ngks for last couple of years with no probs at all. Prior to that I had the denso equivalents of the bp6res and they were also excellent.

Take rocker covers off and measure how much lift you are getting on the problem cylinders- measure a good one too for comparison. Bang a DTI on there if you have one- probably the easiest way.

I ran the 2.25 in my 90 on unleaded for about a year before I put the v8 in, no probs I assume the previous owner also ran the cheap stuff too. Run as is while you get the cash together to go lead free or change engine

White wire wil be sensor heater so connect one to +12v and the other to a good earth. The others are counter intuitive and so grey is sensor earth and black is signal. Connect grey to the low current ms ground wiring where the other sensors (clt and iat) feed back to and then connect black to the lambda signal pin on the ms.