Quagmire

Check here for details on seatbelts: ROSPA Apparently all vehicles in Europe had to be fitted with front seat belts from 1965 onward. In 1968 this was the altered slightly so that three point belts had to be fitted- the wording actually says "retro-fitted to newer cars". As yours is 1968 it should have belts I would think... *edited so that ROSPA text in link was not written "RSOPA"

As the title really, can anyone make a recommendation on a good fire extinguisher to carry in your rover? As I am due to start messing about with adding EFi to my 90 soon I think now would be a good time to get one... So any suggestions on what size to go for, any that mount particularly nicely/neatly (or not), etc? Obvious criteria are: - Must be large enough to actually do something useful with it before it runs out. - Must be able to mount it somewhere where it can be reached easily and quickly. - Must be able to mount it securely but in a such a way it can be released quickly. Thanks

What do you get with the MTX over the LC1? Can anyone summarise for me?

Should point out that Megajolt is no longer available as a DIY kit, you can only buy them prebuilt, so it may not be as cheap as it once was. Check out the autosportlabs site as they'll have the current prices on there.

If the field was not slippery and you made any significant turns then you may have some transmission "wind up" from having the diff engaged. Try reversing a bit before trying the diff lock lever again.

A-frame ball joint is where i'd look

+1 for Megajolt, or if money is tight the kit from Maplin. I have run both (not at the same time obviously!) and was chuffed with the results.

I reckon my Dad would be interested, he lives in Weybridge- I'll get him to send his details.

I'd never thought of listening to the tank- mine is in the loadbay of my 90 so it's right behind me!- I get the clank/tank/boing noise all the time but am obviously too dense to have noticed a pattern to the noises- will listen out in future Will checkout the OMVL then, mine is getting quite annoying- I recently made an adjustment to the mixture to get a better mixture under load, and my mpg crashed and burned as a result, and I have been struggling to get it back since. My last tank gave me 14.5mpg, so am on my way back to where I was, but it's just too hit and miss to do any adjustment with any real certainty. With my wideband plugged in I can literally make a small adjustment at idle, get it where I want it - and the next time I blip the throttle it ends up somewhere totally different! And i'm not talking about a 0.1 or 0.2 AFR difference, I mean like a whole 0.5-1.0! I then wind it back to where it was, and it ends up somewhere different again!

Me too- but the pump not filling thing still gets you then. Still better than forgetting to fill up though :D

D'oh! The joys of LPG fuel tank gauges- you never can really tell 100% what you've got onboard... Especially annoying if the pump you last used didn't give you a proper fill and shut off after half the amount you would normally get in (I hate that!) What vapouriser have you fitted and how are you finding it? I cannot get my Bigas M84 to hold any tune whatsoever. I know what you mean about the feeling you get when having to drive on Petrol on great distance, you get this squealing sound from your pocket as your wallet has a mental breakdown...

Knackered ignition amplifier? Further to that questions would be: -Does it always do it? -Does it do it when hot or cold (or both the same) -What troubleshooting has been done so far?

I had a blocked jet a couple of times on my Weber, but then I have also had crud make its way into the SU's on my v8 and cause me grief so i'd say it doesnt suffer anymore than any other carb- fellow forum members may be able to advise more on what they have experienced. Fitting an inline filter should stop all that though, and is something I really should do.

In response to landy-novice- the SU has (I believe) a bigger throat diameter so will allow air to be drawn in more easily than the Weber. Aside from that the SU has literally only a handful of components compared to any other carb so they are easier to maintain and tune. Once tuned they will then hold that tune a bit better than most. Just google for an exploded diagram of a Weber 34ich compared to an SU HIF and see the difference...

Thanks! :D

Avoid the RPI scaremongering - allegedly all they will do if you contact them is sell you a mallory dizzy and some mega expensive leads. Do some reading at www.v8forum.co.uk instead My second favourite forum after LR4x4

Those figures correspond to what voltage your wideband is set to output under any given mixtures. For example the default outputs on the Innovate LC1 (quote from manual): "The LC-1's analog output 2 is factory programmed to provide a linear output between 0V and 5V for an AFR of 7.35 to 22.39. Any other linear output range between 0 and 5V can be programmed."

Thanks Ralph, should have said the 110 is a factory v8- soon to be EFi'd

Guys, Hopefully this is an easy yes/no (although as we are talking about LR's here I suspect not! ) My Dad wants to know if it is possible to put a later plastic RRC fuel tank in his 110? Do they mount the same? I guess the alternative to this would be to use a later td5 110 tank and make the required mounting bracket mods. Answers on a postcard please Thanks!

Its getting to the "properly" tuned bit that megasquirt wins hands down at- no mucking about with needles, dashpot oil etc- just plug in your laptop and go for a few runs in your best suit. You'll also save fuel by being able to more accurately map a proper lean cruise, and make use of fuel cutoff on deceleration...

It's a modern way of typing to fellow Youffs on a PHONE innit?.... This however is an internet forum where (some ) sensible people lurk. I reckon that even using it on a phone these days is pointless as it came about originally to get round the 160 max character limit on a sms, and also save time before predictive text was invented. With these new fangled "smart" phones you don't have the character limit and I find it actually uses more time to put in a stupid acronym rather than type the proper word... I personally don't care how you want to type your message- but if it looks as un-decipherable as that last post you won't likely get many responses to your questions. So please take Fridges friendly hint and type in a way that all of us En-ger-lish speakers can understand. We are friendly, and we do want to help- but we don't want to have to squint at the screen thinking "what the..f**?" :blink: to do it. If I wanted to do that I could go and read some obscure forum in Dutch, or French, German, Swedish... (you get the idea) Or I could talk to my 18 year old brother! :D innit!

I like plastering! I just don't like cleaning up afterwards

Check the pump too, replace the gears if needed and check the base plate for scoring. If it is scored then you can resurface it by lapping it on a piece of wet and dry laid on a piece of plate glass. Make sure you use nice even figure 8 motions and you'll soon have a nice flat pump base. That should help up the pressure a bit

^ What Geoff said, but further to the comment on the leads, use OEM keeping them nicely organised and separated and you'll be fine.

Are the squirt and the LC1 powered and earthed from the same locations? Sounds like you have some kind of voltage offset causing the difference in readings, I had the same thing with my Megajolt until I redid some of my wiring to bring both +ves and earths to the same locations. Even then I had a difference, although it was small. As for connecting the wideband sensor directly into squirt, this can't be done as you need the LC1 (or similar) to actually drive the sensor. *edit- from what I've read using the analogue output is the correct way to do things, just make sure you have the output range on the LC1 matching what the MS is expecting to see.