Quagmire

I'd agree with Fridge here, if you like the basic nature of a Series but want coil springs, then buy a basic model early 90/110. Once I removed the (small amount) of sound proofing/water rentention + rust enhancement material from my 90 it was almost the same as my series 2. They are even both Bronze green ragtops with black wheels and at the time both had 2.25 petrol engines! The 90 now has a khaki/sand roof and so now matches the series 2 much better

I used to work at a gear-cutting firm a few years ago, they had been in the same building for maybe 30 years or so. The ceiling had a couple of holes in it where over the years a couple of jobs had been thrown from chucks, luckily nobody was ever hit. The holes were perfectly rectangular, showing the force that they had been thrown with... I did hear about one guy who was showing a apprentice why you should not go near changewheels whilst the machine was running. In the process he lost the tip of his finger! An effective demonstration I would say!

I changed the 2.25 petrol in my 90 for a 3.5 and the difference is great- merging onto motorways and dual carriageways is not a suicide mission anymore. However I reckon that you may as well go for a 3.9 while you are at it (I was given a mint 3.5 free of charge so went with that). Having run both engines on LPG the difference in consumption is pretty negligible. I drive into the LEZ everyday!

The HT leads I have been using from the scrappies to run my Megajolt setup have finally started to give up the ghost- not bad considering that a couple of them have been perished from day one and were only supposed to be temporary So, as i have potentially another two vehicles to make up custom HT leads for I figured I should invest in the tools and do them myself rather than buy readymade. Question is - where can i get new early EDIS coil connectors from? For clarification these are the type that hook onto the post of the coilpack... Have been googling all morning with no success, so any pointers in the right direction gratefully received. Thanks

Have posted this on v8forum.co.uk for you: http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=67774#67774

Yep- sometimes more, sometimes less. Over the last 30,000 miles or so thats what i've got though. That's on LPG though. I get better figures from petrol but no idea of what exactly (never drive on it for too long...)

Cable is nice and simples! I voted already though

I run a 3.5 rover v8 in my softtop 90 on LPG, its my daily driver. I get about 15mpg on average...

For me: Vacuum operated with a one way valve to maintain integrity of braking vacuum should something on the roll bar setup come adrift/ fail. Default position would be locked.

I have worked under my 90 plenty of times on stands only, for example when replacing rear axle... Short of setting up some kind of maglev thing at the cost of 100's of thousands I'm not sure what else you can do... I always settle it onto the stands, then give it a good shove from all directions to doublecheck stability, wheels chocked. If in doubt then I stick a wheel or two under it as well so that if its does fall I will at least be crushed to he thickness of a disco rim, and not flat as a pancake.

Made me cringe! Good luck, hope you get it sorted...

D'oh! Thanks, much appreciated

Kev, You have certainly come to the right place for answers! To identify gearbox try here: Ashcroft transmissions You probably have an LT230 transfer box: Transfer box stuff Check the axle breather is clear before you do the hub seals- when i get any spots of oil on my rims I have usually found a blocked breather. Catching this early and cleaning has so far (touchwood) stopped any further leaks without the need to change any seals. Check the tech archive for how to do things, and if you get stuck then ask. No stupid questions, only stupid answers! Have fun

My VIP100 box is connected to an output on the Megajolt, which allows me to trigger an open loop condition whenever I like by changing the trigger conditions in MJ. Having set MJ to output an openloop condition at all times (for example you could say go open loop at any RPM >500, or for any MAP reading with a higher figure than 10kPA...) I still never get rich enough figures from my Bigas M84, maximum i see at WOT is about 13.8:1. I was also thinking of the OMLV R90, Toby- what AFR figures do you get on WOT?

Roger, My LPG switch does the same- the solenoids will open for 3 seconds only if the engine is not seen to be running. I usually turn the key, get the "ping!" as the tank valve opens, pause and then start. Even doing this hasn't helped much since I leaned it off. Don't get me wrong though, it still starts every time- these are EDIS sized sparks we have here! It may just crank over 2 or 3 times first. Still havent had a chance to check what my cranking advance is because I am rubbish! Will try to do it this evening. Might also try upping the rev limit a bit too Third is my favourite gear As for what system I have, its a kit from Tinley Tech consisting of: BiGas M84 Vapouriser (probably needs a rebuild as it has done about 50,000 miles, and I cannot get it to go rich enough on WOT no matter what I do) Mixer ring/plate on each SU Closed loop control powered by a VIP 100 box from Tinley.

Roger, Questions and comments welcome thats what we're here for! Hopefully we can somehow comeup with some kind of semi-definitive 3.5/3.9/whatever maps based on our collective experiences. I'm using a MJLJ v 4.0 if that makes any difference... The cranking advance on mine is set in the "global controller options" where you also set the number of cylinders etc, and overrides the value of 17 degrees you see there, I think mine is set to 8 or maybe 10 degrees. I will check for you when I get home tonight. One thing I will say is that whatever it is currently set to used to work very well when it was running rich. I recently installed a wideband lambda sensor and could then see that I was getting AFR's of around 11:1 ! I I have since reigned this back in a bit so that it gets around 13.5:1 on tickover. However, this has affected my cold starting a little as it turns over a bit more now before catching. I will try taking some advance out and report back. As for the rev limit being set to 4500, I never really rev it that high anyway, I think I have only hit the limiter two or three times. My Dad (3.5 in a 110) however found that he needed it set higher as he was hitting it all the time! My 90 is pretty light, being an early one (no soundproofing etc) and a softtop so I wonder if that would account for the different use of the rev range? Cheers Jamie

My Dad has one and we did pretty much that recently. The temp gauge on his 110 went *phut* and was falsely reading high, he was worried that the gauge was actually telling the truth. All we did was compare his running temps to mine (both 3.5's) and saw that at various points on the engine they were the about the same. As for the accuracy, I got a reading of around 80 deg C from my thermostat housing, and on my X-fan switch housing that is located in the top hose. My sump was reading at 90degrees. From Megajolt I get a reading of 82 degrees most of the time when up to temp so the measurements from the gun would seem to tie in. With my recently installed TD5 dash this translates to the needle just being to the left of vertical. If you call vertical 12 O'Clock, then I reckon its a about 2mins to 12.

An infrared thermometer is a great way of checking actual temps if you don't trust your gauge.

Heres mine : mapBins=10,20,30,40,50,55,70,80,90,100 rpmBins=5,6,10,12,15,20,25,30,40,50 advance0=17,18,20,23,26,32,38,38,38,38 advance1=17,18,20,23,26,32,38,38,38,38 advance2=16,17,19,22,25,31,37,37,37,37 advance3=15,17,18,21,24,30,36,36,36,35 advance4=14,16,17,20,23,29,35,35,35,34 advance5=13,15,16,19,22,28,34,34,34,33 advance6=12,12,15,18,21,27,33,33,33,32 advance7=11,11,14,17,20,26,32,32,32,31 advance8=9,9,13,16,19,25,31,31,30,30 advance9=9,7,12,15,18,24,30,30,30,30 correctionBins=0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0 correctionValues=0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0 correctionPeakHold=0 userOutType0=2 userOutMode0=0 userOutValue0=88 userOutType1=0 userOutMode1=0 userOutValue1=45 userOutType2=1 userOutMode2=0 userOutValue2=10 userOutType3=1 userOutMode3=0 userOutValue3=10 shiftLight=45 revLimit=45 Usual disclaimer applies!

Whoops- i did copy and paste yours to take a peek compared to mine in Megajolt, I think I may have pasted yours back in here by mistake!

Heres mine: cylinders=8 mapBins=10,20,30,40,50,60,70,80,90,100 rpmBins=7,9,12,14,16,18,23,40,50,60 advance0=6,18,24,28,31,35,38,38,38,10 advance1=12,18,24,28,31,35,38,38,38,10 advance2=12,17,23,27,30,34,37,37,37,10 advance3=12,16,22,26,29,33,36,36,36,10 advance4=12,16,21,25,28,32,35,35,35,10 advance5=9,15,20,24,27,31,34,34,34,10 advance6=8,14,19,23,26,30,33,33,33,10 advance7=8,14,18,22,25,29,32,32,32,10 advance8=7,13,17,21,24,28,31,31,31,10 advance9=7,13,17,21,24,28,31,31,31,10 userOutType0=1 userOutMode0=0 userOutValue0=5 userOutType1=1 userOutMode1=1 userOutValue1=5 userOutType2=1 userOutMode2=1 userOutValue2=5 userOutType3=1 userOutMode3=1 userOutValue3=5 shiftLight=63 revLimit=60 USUAL WARNINGS APPLY- this has run my 3.5 fine on LPG for the last 17000 miles, but could blow yours up! I take no responsibility, your house may be repossessed if you do not keep up repayments on you mortgage... Engine is a 9.35:1 compression 3.5 running a 3.5 EFI cam, 10 bolt heads and SU carbs. Gas setup is single point, closed loop LPG

Does that mean we get to double all the quoted figures then?

I don't have any maps here with me at work (since my machine was nuked and win7 installed), but I think my idle advance is somewhere around 17 degrees on gas... This is ticking over at around 800 RPM with a MAP of around 30kPa. I simply sat there with the laptop and kept increasing advance around the idle area until revs stopped rising, then went back a few degrees. One guy on the MJ forums hooked a variable resistor to the input and used it to add advance with a knob on the dash, that way he could simply twiddle the knob, drive and then compare to what he had before in terms of performance to what he was seeing before: Megajolt forum I have yet to do this...

What condition was the 3.9 in though? On paper the 3.9 should be the better engine, more torque and higher bhp... From Parkers: 3.9 (Land Rover Discovery (89-98) 3.9 V8i 3d): Engine Size 3947 cc Cylinders 4 0-60 mph 10.5 s Power Output 181 bhp Valves 8 <- I do question this figure though! Torque 313 Nm 230 lb-ft 300tdi (Land Rover Discovery (89-98) 300 Tdi 3d Auto): Engine Size 2495 cc Cylinders 4 0-60 mph 17.2 s Power Output 111 bhp Valves 8 Torque 265 Nm 195 lb-ft *flame suit on*

Welcome, and... where are the pics? :D