Quagmire

Think the 101 club sell some stuff called Mystox, its a re=proofer but can also recolours I think. Might be worth a google.

Wash off with mild soap and water and then go down your local camping store and get a gallon of Fabsil. Water beads off like off a ducks back when done.

Just a question really on how often I should be flushing my rad through? Yearly? Every other year? Something else? I currently have no problems at all with the cooling I get from the 2 year old rad on my 3.5 even in the hottest weather and I'd like to keep it that way. I'm using the orange antifreeze from Halfords and coolant still looks clear and pretty good. Answers on a postcard please Cheers!

My Dad once went along as an extra pair of eyes to see a 101 for sale with someone looking to buy their first one. It turned out it was running LPG only (I think) and was turbo charged. Not sure where it was located though, but might be interesting to find out

Roland, If you think that both your ECU's are now toast you could try Megasquirt? Check the sub forum for it here: Megasquirt forum

I did this today, as Western said- grease (I kept shooting in new grease until the old carp started to ooze out) then undid the locking mechanism and stuck a 2ft long bit of square tube through. Then I twisted to free it off and re-greased. Job jobbed

Keep the original look! My 90's paintwork has been abused over the years and has all kinds of blemishes on it from birdpoo not being washed off etc. I've decided to keep it that way and just wax it every so often to help prevent to paint getting any worse. Sometimes an LR looks better for looking used but cared for

See here: Megajolt install But basically I got my stuff from these places: EDIS8 module and "pigtail"- ebay.com EDIS coilpacks- ebay.co.uk VR sensor- ebay.co.uk Megajolt kit- www.autosportlabs.com Trigger wheel, VR sensor bracket, and new connectors for coilpacks- triggerwheels.com or is it .co.uk?) Assorted wire- Dad's garage. *edit Price for the MJ kit was not much- about £65 with shipping I think last time? Will vary tho based on strength (or lack of) of the pound.

:hysterical:

We have two drawers for spanners- one for metric and the other for imperial. The Metric ones all have a band of red insulation tape on, and the imperial all have a blue band. At the end of the day we just throw them in based on colour. The adjustable spanners do cause confusion with this system though.

Solidworks is great and very intuitive- just get a copy from somewhere (legally of course) and start the tutorials! Once you get going you will never look back

My GF has learnt to not even bother trying to talk at speeds above 40mph, but then you get a condensed burst of chatter everytime you stop for traffic lights etc

The last Paddock one I bought actually came from All Wheel trim I think. That was for my 90. Canvas is very thick- when new it was stiff like a cardboard box!

Depends on a lot of things like: Do you want to keep the (kind of) period look of carbs? Do you get on well with electricity? Is the existing wiring in the vehicle any good to start with (good earths, fuses etc). I'd go Efi, I am on SU's right now but (still) in the process of gathering the bits together to go injection. More accurate fuelling, more power, better economy, if you are using a programmable ECU (wait for Fridge or HFH to arrive ) then it is much easier to setup and adjust than having to muck about with jets, needles etc. At the end of the day carbs work, and can work well to a point. But Efi just works better.

I believe that is the overflow or vent tube. If you have a float stuck, or it sinks then the excess fuel will pour out here. My carb setup came from a P6 and these are connected to pipes that run forward along the valley and then down the front of the engine to sump level. Any fuel coming out here should therefore harmlessly tiddle all over the road instead of creating a nice flammable puddle in the valley.

Fridge- does your head unit have an option to dim? If it's a Sony it probably will as mine is about 3 years old and allows me to dim it. Although I do have a wiring glitch that seems to cut all power to the flipping thing once every 4 weeks or so at random, and I end up having to reset everything Anyway- back to the topic

Looks like you are adding spark advance instead of taking it away under load at one end of the map, and then swapping back to "normal" practice about half way up the rev range. I'd search for one of the maps from the various MS threads, or take HFH up on his offer. Bear in mind that if you are copying a Megajolt spark map, then the load axis is reversed as compared to Megasquirt- on MJ the lowest load (0kPa) is at the top of the table, whilst WOT (100kPa)is at the bottom.

I think Bowie is right- tuning on a very cold day means you are working at the leanest end of the spectrum (if you see what I mean) as you are getting denser air drawn in. Hence on a hot day you will then run into the richer side of things as you are getting less oxygen sucked in for the same amount of fuel being injected..

Couldnt agree more- if there was a cheaper or better way then LR would probably have come up with it during the however many years that the coil sprung LR's have been flying out of Solihull...

The problem with this kind of thing is that anyone can make them, with as much or as little "proper" engineering content as they like. As long as they fit and look alright then people will buy them.

Peeps on v8forum have said previously that the rover likes 13.5:1 at idle so looks like it must be...

Nice one, thanks Gromit!

I *believe* you draw a chalk line across the tread, set your pressure and go for a drive. If the middle of the line wears off first then the tyres are too heavily inflated and are bulging out in the middle of the tread. If the outer edges wear off before the middle the the tyre is being supported on the sidewalls and is too flat... You adjust accordingly until the line wears off evenly all the way across...

Jealous!

I think the only way to check on an electronic dizzy would be get a helper to watch the timing with a light whilst you suck on the vac advance tube (engine running at the same rpm throughout to discount effects of mech advance). On a normal dizzy you can just remove the cap, suck the tube and see the baseplate moving about as the vacuum changes- not sure if you can actually see anything moving on the electronic ones though... I have one of them on my s2, but thats currently at my parents 25 miles away or I would check.