Quagmire

Sounds obvious, and I apologise if you have checked this already, but have you got all the leads on in the right place, right direction of rotation etc? *edit for clarity. What I meant to say was that just because pot1 is correct, are the others?

Is kind of worrying if the MOT tester didn't realise from A)- the sound, and B) the exhaust smell that it wasn't a diesel though. I bet that if the DVLA records show it as a 300tdi the monkeys doing the test just did a Diesel test rather than engaging their braincell. *edit*- dirty90 beat me!

Did they think it was a diesel or something? I thought the emissions were at idle on a petrol vehicle...

Donated £20.

Google "Folkard gears" in Weybridge Surrey- postcode ~KT13. They do shaping and hobbing of internal and external splines and gears.

Mo- same principal, but if you try to catch the smoke in the hope of reinserting it you won't get stung. The electricity will become very defensive and sting anyone that tries to catch it once free of the HT leads...

I have an early warning system on mine in the form of my LPG vap - It froze on me last week, in the process also freezing the hoses back to the heater and inlet manifold. Symptoms were it conked out on gas and when I switched to Petrol the temp gauge started to rise quickly as I guess the circulation around the heads was compromised I always start on LPG and the only other time the vap has frozen was when it was like -7 during the day or something silly. Pulled over, saw the vap looking like an ice lolly and sat there for 15 whilst the residual heat melted it all. Have since topped up with antifreeze and all ok now. Like elbekko, I had been chasing a small waterleak for a while and just topping up with water. Whoops!

result - when i did mine I was amazed at the difference, main beam is more of a weapon than a source of light now And that's with standard 55w bulbs.

I have the Crystal units without the pilot lights. Waaaaaay better than my original sealed beams. They are much brighter with a more clearly defined pattern than before. The difference is night and day :D

I usually put one on my 90 over winter although mines a v8. It def helps things get up to temp a little more quickly and when its really cold out there it does seem to make a difference to the level of heat you get out the blower. Note that although I have one fitted, I never close the rad off entirely, for me the purpose is just to cut the amount of ice cold air whipping through the engine bay by reducing the cross sectional area open to the wind. So i'd say give it a shot. You could always stick a thin bit of ply or something over a part of the rad if you want to try the principle before forking out for a proper muff.

The air spilling off the front of a truck is immense! If i ever end up in a situation with a truck beside me (nose of cab inline or just in front of back edge of my doors) all the draughts I get in the cab increase x10!

I made one from a small 10A relay and buzzer from Maplin. The relay is connected to live so that when the ignition is on the relay is switched to say leg A. this connects to nothing. A feed from the lights goes through the buzzer, then through leg B of the relay and to earth. This then means that when the engine is on and relay is powered, the relay is switched so that the path to earth for the buzzer is broken. When the engine is off, but lights are on the circuit is made and the buzzer buzzes. All made for less than £5 and slightly bigger than a box of matches. Mine is connected behind the fusebox panel. I think that made sense

Damn! What a shame - I was planning on going MS on my 90 anyway, that'll free up a unit for one of the other family vehicles. Does kind of kill the argument that if you have you need a new dizzy you might as well go MJ for the same price as a replacement.

I would second this, I made that error- thinking I would get the fan on with the cable tie things and then properly secure it when I had more time. I never got round to it and about 6-8 months later I needed a new rad. Luckily for me the old rad was coming out for a bigger one when I put the v8 in anyway, but that's not the point... Its all nicely secured to the frame of the new rad and no problems as all since.

I had a 2.25 in my 90 and that was a lovely engine- just a bit underpowered on the motorway. If i had just been toddling around town in it I would have kept it- I had it running LPG so it was cheap. I wouldn't change the engine for the sake of it unless you have a specific reason to do it, you like tinkering, or the current one blows up! On the fan front, I'd go electric with an x-fan controller- when I fitted one to my 2.25 it became much more free revving. Having a fan whirring about on a Tdi or v8 may not make much difference to performance, but it didn't help my 2.25 at all. Just my 2p worth- at the end of a day its a Land-Rover, and what's great about them is that you can do whatever you want with them. The choice is yours!

Not helpful I know, but if you have filling stations nearby i'd just go LPG. Thats me done now, let the thread continue with more useful posts! *Edit - Zoltan beat me! And thinking about it, aren't the Italians quite into LPG?

I'd swap moist air coming out from my heater vents for what I seem to have at the moment. In the last two days I have had 4 very large wasps come out of the vents when turned on. One popped out on the M3 and I had to make a stop to get rid of it! :angry:

Good luck!

Not sure how MS works with table switching, but I wired my Megajolt up so that the maps change when using the LPG switchover button. I have a relay that is powered when the LPG solenoids are opened and this switches the appropriate Megajolt pin to ground when the LPG is in use (this tells it to change map). This way I never forget to swap map. The good thing about it is that it means you can never run LPG advance with Petrol as a fuel by mistake. The only thing I have to be careful of (and this is just a carb thing) is that when I switch my fuel pump off I cannot switch the gas on until all the Petrol has gone from the carb bowls as I would be putting too much advance in. I instead switch the fuel off and only when the engine is totally out do I turn on the gas. Needless to say I only switch to LPG when going downhill.

What capacity v8 are we talking about here? If the rad is all crusty then that will hopefully be the problem- any obvious corrosion? If you offroad at all could it be full of mud? Try washing the fins through. If you have a 3.9 upward then it could be the dreaded crack behind a liner problem. But i'd personally make sure you have checked all the easy to do things before such a drastic diagnosis is made.

I used a rotary wire brush to clean my rear axle off- just make sure you wear a mask and eye protection as it makes a lot of dust and when a wire bristle flies off they are like flying needles! I painted the axle with a couple of coats of red oxide, and then with black "Tractol" - great stuff, covers pretty well and resists chipping, flaking etc. Only problem is that I dont think its very easy to get hold of, you might need to check paint suppliers and/or agricultural equipment people. Heres a random link for free: Smith&Allan (not affliated with, worked for ever, etc) The ribs that support the tub floor might be worth checking- they can get pretty bad. I'd give your bulkhead a good once over to check for rust before you put it back on as well. Good luck!

Guy at work wants to know how he can remove and replace his electric mirror on his Range Rover Sport- has anyone done this? I'm strictly a Defender/Series man you see and all the new fangled stuff with plastic clips is slightly scary. :ph34r: Thanks!

My 90 is my daily drive and does around 400miles a week on LPG @ 15mpg. My tips for LPG would be these. Do not go out and buy stupidly expensive HT leads, ala Magnecor. Just buy good quality ones and route them carefully to avoid them crossing or contacting each other. Use lots of the clip things (technical term) to secure them to each other. If using a distributor use a genuine cap and rotor arm. The only running problems I ever had were when I foolishly fitted an intermotor arm. Dont buy mega expensive plugs- use normal plugs gapped to the upper limit as specced in the LR manuals. I am using Denso plugs right now with no issues. I have also used Champions too- again with no problems. On my old 4-cylinder engine the best plugs I ever used were the NGK "V-groove" plugs. Go closed loop if you can afford to. Mine made the drive much more pleasurable on LPG.

On the RV8 you should always change the cam when changing lifters too. By replacing the lifters only you run the risk of turning your cam into swarf...

Megajolt :i-m_so_happy: