Quagmire

nice one brother You all set for Friday? I have my TD5 gauges in (still using old binnacle and warning panel though for the time being). I can actually see how fast I'm going!

No idea Have you checked the thread in the tech archive?

I can confirm that the hole on the column is for a choke. That is where the choke is on both my 90 (originally a 2.25 petrol) and my Dad's factory v8 110.

Same as Lawrence- buy a one litre bottle then keep it to refill from a bigger, cheaper bottle and use again.

Welcome to the forum I'm not a range-rover owner so can't really help you with all the relays etc, but I am sure someone will be along shortly to point you in the right direction. First step I would do is try to find some proper Land-rover documentation, the Haynes manuals are good for the most (even though people slate them), but the LR stuff is sometimes better. Try googling for the RAVE manual. Have fun!

Sorry- by electronic I mean it has a reluctor wheel inside and no points.

I try to wax mine a couple of times a year to help protect the paint over winter from the ravages of salt and grit etc. Its 20+years old and the paint is full of chips etc on the bonnet but the rest is good and it seems a shame to let it get any worse if I can avoid it.

Have you got an electronic dizzy? Could be a bad amp as it sounds like it is only happening when its warm. Or maybe a bad coil? Does it restart right away from the stall, or do you have to let it cool down? I had a plug come loose on me once from doing the opposite and not tightening enough! The engine ran ok, and i seem to have got away without it tearing the threads out under compression. The only symptom I had with this was it was dropping to 7 sometimes and on inspection when running the plug lead appeared to be vibrating as the plug moved in and out slightly.

That was still going round before you removed?

15-16mpg over the last 33-35,000 miles-ish. Thats a basic closed loop system feeding mixer rings on each SU- fitted to a 3.5 in a ragtop 90. Hoping for a little more now that I have a wideband lambda sensor fitted and can actually see what is going on and when. It was running mega rich in places when i first fitted it. *edit- aaaaaagh! From my calcs using 75.9ppl and 128ppl for lpg and petrol I am only getting an equivalent of 25mpg on petrol now! (Thats using 15mpg as my consumption). What the best you can get out of a 3.5 on Petrol with Megasquirt and heavy motorway mileage?

Check the axle breather is not blocked if it is spewing oil onto discs. I have found in the past that if you catch it early then once you clean up the breather and it can do its job you might get away without changing any seals. This has always manifested itself on one side only though, so the fact you have leaks on each side could mean seals are dead.

Pretty much! Oh and Fairy Power spray was on special at £2 a bottle in ASDA this evening...

Total Fleet 75.9ppl BP on A31 Farnham bypass 75.9ppl Total Addlestone 75.9ppl...

When cleaning the heads for my 3.5 and the rocker covers I did the following: Spray with Fairy Power spray and work in with a stiff brush. Leave it to sit a little bit (we are talking 5-10 minutes here, too long and I think it attacks the aluminium) Wash off with low pressure water Do any stubborn bits again Wash Pressure wash Blow off with compressed air to dry WD40 any bits you don't want to rust I have also put rocker covers in the dishwasher with no problems (apart from forgetting how hot they would be ), just rinsing off afterward.

Not wanting to start a flame war here but have you actually tried to start a series on the handle at -20? My series2 is easy (thats a relative term, compared to a key its not easy at all) to start on the handle in warmer weather, but when I have tried it on the handle in temperatures of zero or lower it is a right bugger! My v8 90 however starts everytime with the flick of a key, whatever the weather

71.9ppl this morning at Total in Fleet...

v8forum.co.uk - Helpful chaps.

LPG was 73.9ppl at Fleet Total this morning.

Just to throw a spanner in the works... I have run LPG for a few years now and always start on LPG from cold. Just recently I installed a wideband lamda sensor and I did find that it was runnning too rich, however it will still start from cold now when set to run at a (Petrol) AFR of 14:1. However in this state of tune it does need some choke for a minute or 2, this does not affect the mixture when on LPG but does raise the idle speed. The only time I have had any issues with vap freezing have been last year when we had 20 inches of snow on the ground (very cold), the second time was this year when my vap froze- this was down to my antifreeze not being up to strength as I had been topping off the coolant with tap water whilst I had been searching for a leak. In terms of plugs I have been used NGK's, Champions and Densos all with no problems- always gapped to the mid range of the LR specs. As far as leads are concerned, don't buy expensive ones- just stick to genuine and route them properly. Invest in some extra clip things to separate them if necessary. Keep them clean and avoid them crossing or touching anything. If using a distributor use a genuine cap and rotor arm. Have fun with the v8 *edit- your first post mentions you hear a click and then it dies sometimes. Sounds like the solenoids are closing. Most LPG systems are setup so that they shutdown the gas when the engine is not running. The LPG system has a feed from the negative terminal of the coil or may have a lead wrapped around an HT lead for the signal to indicate engine is running. On my system it is currently set to cut the gas off after 3 seconds. I guess if this signal is not being seen by LPG switch it may cut the gas off.

Is there not enough room to fit a standard Range rover oval type box, or a round P6 one like this? I imagine possibly not as if a filter hits the heater, then the elbow on that side probably would too... The filters are easy to get hold of though

Aha- sorry, yes its a wideband lambda sensor and having a provision for fuses in one place would be nice I liking the look of one of these: 12 way fuse box Thanks for the replies so far

Right, So the expanse of wiring in my battery box grows steadily bigger with the latest addition being for the wideband my girlfriend got me for my birthday. All is working fine, but I seem to have some kind of ground offset issue as the AFR being logged in Megajolt is higher/leaner than those reported directly by the LC-1. Anyways I though that as part of sorting this out I should probably pull my finger out and rationalise/improve some of the wiring that I have done that worked at the time but could have been done better. A big part of this is grouping switched lives, earths etc onto nice "proper" terminal strips or boxes that then have a single feed in or out. Can anyone recommend anything? Thanks!

Lol- My series 2 is ex military (decommissioned in 1978) and everything on that was looked after pretty well, everything that should come apart did- and the stuff that shouldn't didn't. My civilian 90 is much the opposite, things that shouldn't have come off did- and those things that should come off invariably sheared off instead. The 101 however was different- that just had sand behind every panel and some extremely well fillered dents!

I think its because as others have said- you have the useability and ruggedness of a series with all the same ease of maintenance, no nasty bodywork rust problems like Rangies or Discos and the coil springiness does make them much more sensible for everyday use. I have a series2 and an old 90 and when I first bought the 90 it was like night and day! I could hear what passengers were saying to me when travelling at speed, didn't need spinal surgery from traversing speed humps, and could keep up with normal traffic- more importantly I could stop like normal traffic too. I love my series 2, but a 90 or 110 is just so much easier all around. Then my Dad got a 110 CSW, and that is better again! Sound proofed, and the ride is less choppy than the 90 too So its just all the benefits of a series vehicle, with less of the drawbacks...

Oh, and what did you have to do to sort the oil pressure? How much of the engine had to come off? That'll help pinpoint what other parts could be involved...