Quagmire

Silicon spray? Lovely slippery stuff, only problem is you wont be able to hold onto anything if you get it on your hands. Mr Sheen also works, but is not so good. Smells nice though.

Glad to be of assistance

Mr Bean- try v8forum.co.uk, they have done most things on the RV8 over there...

On my 90 it would be easier for them to undo the canvas... so no worries about hinges for me!

My 3.5 idles at 32kPa at (i cant remember the exact figure) 800-850rpm. Thats on LPG. I advanced spark map at idle to the point revs stopped increasing and the MAP value stopped decreasing, then backed it off a few degrees.

Lol- thanks guys :lol: , I'll try not to fry anything! :P:

Thanks Fridge, PM sent- Just found this, which seems clearer: MS Extra v3.0 Build Manual

Right, So i took the plunge and ordered a MS1 V3 kit from the US at the weekend. Over the last few weeks I have been doing copious amounts of reading around the subject, and as I am planning to run MSextra (used to be called MSnS?) I have been trying to figure out exactly what hardware mods are needed. This is where the confusion comes in. Ideally I would like to build the board ready to run MSExtra and drive EDIS without having to remove components that are not needed/need to change when compared to the normal MS build. So my question is. Do I follow the "normal" instructions in the megamanual for the V3 board as here: Megamanual V3 board assembly and then do the mods listed on MSExtra as listed here? MSExtra EDIS mods I think that the only part change on the build would be to change the value of R12 (Normal MS states 390 Ohm, MSExtra states 1k) and therefore install the larger value from the get go, also I would not need to install C30. The rest appears to be jumpering and the installation of a 750 Ohm resistor on the output side? Also planning on the "TIP122" mod as described here to drive the idle valve, as well as map switching: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Hardware_Manual.htm#layout3 If someone could just give me a sanity check on this so that I know I am not barking up the wrong tree it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys

Good job! I am literally on the brink of ordering my MS kit and am in the middle of doing some serious background reading. I hope to join the MS gang soon

Axles, diffs, will be the same- transferbox should be the same (I think) *edit- had blabbered on about manual boxes but realised its an auto

As above, i'd drop the fuel and put some fresh in. Then I'd check oil level and ensure its at minimum, then remove plugs and perhaps squirt a small shot of oil into each bore. Check you can turn it over by hand on the pulley. If you can, then turn it over on the starter until you get pressure. Replace plugs, and fire it up - no revving! Alternatively, check here for a discussion on priming with a drill Priming A good way to check visually for pressure is to pull a rocker cover off and see if you have oil weeping from the rocker gear. Once the oil has burnt off from lubing the bores and if all is well, then i'd change the oil and filters and your done. Then change oil at regular intervals from then onward- 3000 miles is the interval I use.

RRC's came fitted with toilet facilities? :D

Thanks Nige- mean't to say the EDIS HT ends I got off you were spot on- the 90 is now running like a dream on its new homemade leads

Cheers Fridge, will do a stare and compare next time I'm at my parents house.

Changing cranking advance to zero had no effect whatsoever on starting from cold this morning, will put it back to 6 degrees I guess.

Right, Moving from Megajolt to full Megasquirt has been on my mind more and more recently now that we have been getting decent amounts of daylight. So I have complete 3.5 Flapper setup sitting in Dad's garage, manifold, fuel rail + injectors, oily plenum, pipework, bits of loom- everything. I have cleaned the injectors, replaced pintle caps and filter baskets etc so these should (hopefully) be spot on now. However, I also have a rather blinging later plenum from a 4.6 that is corrosion free and nice and shiny inside and out. Question is therefore, can I use the flapper manifold + injectors etc, with the nice shiny 4.6 plenum on top? From reading the MS thread I think that there are issues with MS 1 and the idle air valve on the later plenum (stepper?), but am thinking I could perhaps live without it, or keep it open and then control airflow externally via MS and another valve (the Bosch one used on Volvos, SAABs etc?) All answers greatfully accepted. Oh yes, and if the 4.6 plenum will fit then I shall be getting the "4.6" milled off so I don't get confused and forget I have a 3.5... Thanks

Wow, I am rubbish- Sorry for the delay... finally got out there with laptop tonight and can confirm that my cranking advance was 6 degrees. I have changed it to 0, and will see if this helps at all tomorrow morning. Am seriously considering going full MS soon, with the idea of going LPG injection later. Fiddling about with my vap is doing my nut! It went for its MOT the other day and it was easier to put it through on petrol as at least the SU's would hold a tune for more than 5 minutes...

I love the smell of V8 pics in the morning Nice!

Would love to help, but my maps are all for a teeny little 3.5 so have more advance. Be careful running the LPG map on Petrol, it *should* have a lot more advance and could do some damage.

Sorry for delay, here are the pics- mine is a bit corroded! Latch closed Latch Open Canvas goes over the top and tucks back in and under:

I have a 1984? (B-reg) soft top. The rail looks correct to me Basically it sits on the top of the windscreen frame, and has a series of latches that are sprung loaded to cinch it down tight. You put the canvas on top, it then folds over and tucks in under the bit in your pics. When you lock it down it is compressed tight against the top of the screen. I will take a pic of mine when I can get a minute and get out to the car park...

Glad you got it sorted- always good to see some nice shiny v8 pics Good luck with the MOT- mine passed its test this morning- 1.01% CO and 123ppm HC - well pleased

People tend to forget that the MOT is a minimum safety standard. I have mine on Tuesday....

Whoops- missed that bit! :blink: I havent dabbled with EFI yet (its on the list of things to do). Fridge or HFH will be along at some point. I would suggest checking the tech archive as there are flapper & hotwire troubleshooting docs in there under the "manuals" section. Good luck

What carbs does it have? Running on LPG for extended periods of time without ever using petrol can dry out the seals in the carbs and give you running problems... My tank has a gauge on it, as well as the lights on the dash- yours might have something similar? That way you'd know the sender is (or should) be working. As Spearos said, the level indicators are never very good anyway so I also use my trip counter to determine when i need to fill up.