davie

running a pair of about 40 watt (from memory) led lights, like wee light bars so not massive. no pre made loom just a pair of wires out of each as is normal, red/black so suitable for whatever application hopefully

So i have a small project i am trying to do, but i dont really understand electrics so its making my head hurt. just bought a mini mud pod and some carling switches, mostly on/off i want to run a couple of work lights off this, one per switch for left and right. bought suitable sized wire - double checked with friend who understands these things got fuse holders and suitable fuses, have 2 4 pin relays, one per light - lights are led so low current draw i belive so i have guessed, 1 pin from relay to a suitable earth 1 pin from relay to a permenant live from aux battery, including fuse on this line for safety 1 pin from relay goes to live in terminal on carling switch 1 wire goes from live out on carling switch to led light 1 wire goes from earth on led light back to suitable earth on landy 1 wire goes from earth terminal on carling switch to suitable earth in dash, probably near fuse box mount points - 2003 td5 defender need to take a live feed from fuse for side lights, including a fuse i suspect as electrical coward up to terminal on carling switch for sidelight/illuminate so on relay i have 85,86,,87,30 85 - earth 30 live from aux batt in 87 to light 86 - god knows? So looking for clear, idiot proof guide if possible please, i dont understand the pretty symbols etc so its really a case of is what i listed above ok, and if not why in idiot proof terms - cant offend me on this honest! idea is to have side lights same as rear work lights ( which i didnt wire) that permenant live off aux batt and flick a switch and they come on. over to smarter people

They have indeed given them out, and oh boy i wish i was allowed to take it off road and really test it. Done some road miles in one, literally a heres the keys jump in and go so haven't read the books, gone from a 2003 defender to it and there are sooooooooo many functions and options i wish i had time to test off in mud, but rules say no as somebody agreed to hand them back with all panels straight and not hammered..... dear landrover uk if you want to loan me one for a decent test i will definitely take it lol!!!!! see how it copes in a real mixed environment of work for say 6 months. so on road thoughts, cruise control is a lil fiddly to set up, but never used before so thats a learning curve. live camera rear view mirror, - love it reverse camera and fact it shows you people stood along side - love it cubby box fridge - love it phone to set up and talk, love it - other half says its ace and soooo quiet as i called her sat nav is hundred times better than red cross tom tom carp, and if i could find button to turn on voice be perfect auto box - never driven a single yard in an auto before so really a beginer here - its ace, very smooth stop/start tech at lights etc - yep i want it take off when right foot is applied hard, omg its a speeding ticket here we come but very smooth and rapid - could i afford the mpg, dont know as havent fuelled it yet an odd one but how quick can i wipe clean with wipes ( multi driver/covid stuff) actually its ok, doesnt half smear the sat nav screen though box on side - hate it folded down rear seats not totally flat - hate it dear god whats with tow eyes in rear bumper and expect to tow artics....too in face engine bay, oh carp theres not a spare inch watched a video above, that remind me i hate steering wheel, its too fiddly in design for those of us with big hands/fingers, fingers catch holes and you wander lanes as its twitchy at 70, needs to be cleaner all based on some road miles and not reading manual, just get in and go. if i can figure out how to attach pics from mobile i will

have you verified power at the two or three terminals on screen to make sure its getting there? if so its work backwards through wiring to find break

some of the social media stuff is beyond mad the sheer scary hype still and seeing people slowly go mad, jumping on every comment and desperate to shop neighbours or friends to police just to be seen to do something. Actually went out off where i live (locked estate) today for first time since lockdown began and drove car, only did 1 mile for an essential journey and didnt come in contact with a soul, felt odd doing it. been cracking on with jobs at home in garden since private and its taking longer second guessing every move to ensure i dont join rank of diy accident. be very interesting to see how badly the last great weekend out a lot of people took affects us by end of this week for sure, got feeling wont be great news.

Now thats interesting - didnt realise they did those since last time garage took my tank out to do fuel pump they cut the tank gaurd end to end and then welded back together. yet to understand why?

i do have access to works parweld arc welder and have glued a few bits back together with it but some was 5mm to 5mm so full blast and fine and other was on a trailer so 2mm filling in a crack. its lack of knowledge as to why rod keeps sticking when trying to strike arc gets me frustrated. spoke to local blacksmith and he is going to supply some steel and rods for me to practise with so will at least be able to try and try some more , maybe when world more stable buy a wee mig but for now at least i can try. would still love to do a basic course so i can see why i am going wrong, once over frustration i may well improve a bit.

Not wrong there, we are all used to jumping in our cars etc to go somewhere to get stuff done. now we risk fines or worse. The day will come we can crack on again and it will seem weird for a little while at least to just go places freely.

Sadly i dont know an awful lot of welding - can glue odd bits together on thicker stuff with works invertor arc welder but its not something i would properly trust near a chassis yet. would love to attend a welding evening course to get some basics on mig and arc - emailed some today in aberdeen to see. for anyone who has one of the invertor migs, how do you get on with it and whats a reasonable non rental bottle situation as cant justify big bottle of gas for all i genuinely need. think going to speak to blacksmith and get mudflap brackets off too and plate bottom of x member all way to end from beside chassis rail as thats a good solid point it seems and just have a plate welded to new steel for mud flaps, do away with horrible debris hard to treat bit between two areas. Paime you are right already thinking save pennies and do chassis in year or two as mot man hints at it, mate and i did a series one yrs ago so am sure we could manage it again, all be it slower and with some reading of tech stuff here for hints. Interestingly enough in a month or two he will have a two poster ramp installed so that will definetly help.

so more info after some research, garage doesnt recommend 3mm galv - too heavy but would tolerate galv due to welding and fume issues at a protest. bill looks like easily £1200 plus inc a cross member with extensions at around £250 - ouch! blacksmith i sent video and images to reckons chop out area to something nice hard against chassis rail and weld in new, be fine as its not on where tow bar pulls, ie not centre area. work for year or so until world is more stable and then get a high quality replacement, he did one recently on a 110 and although didnt say who made x member supplied it was terrible, nowhere near square and he really spent some time on it first cutting and re welding to make worth fitting - now he is a perfectionist for sure but he hated poor workmanship. Worries me as finding a high quality suitable manufactured one doesnt sound easy. so once this lockdown is over going to go see him, let him poke it and hit with hammer prior to any welding - so all suggestions of really excellent quality replacement are good just in case.

original plan was to be painting it as just waxed chassis, so rear x member looks terrible as i had started to clean up for paint when rain came. would wonder now if patch for a year until world settles down a bit. chassis rail does seem solid and rest of chassis is fresh enough aint worried.

so beaten with a hammer around it and seems fine, looks like one of chassis holes i made wider when hit and a wee rot pocket. beat at chassis rail either side with hammer and solid didnt go through. video has sound when i took but dont know if came through. VID-20200330-WA0003 (1).mp4

Hi so looking to pick brains of this site, My landy passed mot month or so ago with no mention of corrosion but on removing a un used plate today for a tow socket i found a hole - if i can figure out how i will attach pic from mobile later. not too bothered as tester would have been unable to see it so no issue there. looking to get a replacement x member, probably with extensions anyway as garage says fuel tank must come out. galv one as i want to last as long as possible. whos bought and from where - experiences and thoughts most welcome. 2003 td5 defender 90 cheers david

At risk of sounding a lil too dark here - so if i offend anyone sorry! how many of us are male, mid 40's to early 50's - so already in prime heart attack time! lil overweight ( i am) - not great less than perfect fitness........ i dont even score close to fit pre existing conditions... actually ok here yay so our chances of seeing out year arent 100% before even take in normal life like road accident etc, personally i would rather get back to work and just be a tad more sensible about precautions like hand wash etc than sit on rear for many weeks. seen enough people who when that moment has come its literally a lotery in make it or not , am fairly realistic that my affairs are in order and a normal day to day life is more relaxing than sitting at home waiting to see if this gets me.

good point on the traffic/speed - we live i guess 1 minute walk max from end of 40 into 60 limit and traffic is howling past, so either rocket ship acceleration or just not sticking to limit. must actually walk it as literally door to sign is real close.

i must admit i am cracking on slowly doing jobs on landy but with more thought into the what if.... currently steam cleaned underside prior to waxoil - so only rear wheel off and used works much heavier duty 20 ton axle stands to keep from moving and 90% of it is done by just reaching under and no more in case moves, oh and other half is present all the time so if goes wrong i can get help called fast. the extra coffee stop, set a small target each day to ensure no rush all sensible precautions.

Oh i wish barricades worked - cant say where for social media policy reasons but a estate in scotland we opted to close our gates last night to reduce the mothers day surge as sat was soooooooo busy despite being shut. well 4 hrs into closure we get told to open from senior folks and i go to open the chained shut gates with a sign up and can barely squeeze 90 in through the 17 parked cars at gates from folks wanting to get a walk. to put into context we shut gates a few times a year for trees down over road, ice etc and never ever see more than 5 cars there! wouldnt have got fire engine through without some panel modifications at best.

With NFU for several policies and now just finished a home insurance claim, car claim on my modified 90 few yrs ago. Both were dealt with amazingly well, no problems at all and both times i was genuinely happy to have paid a few more quid in year for such amazing service. In terms of mods i listed them all and offered to drive to local office to let them see it, offer declined but thats ok as having claimed i am now totally satisfied they dont try to wriggle out of stuff. Be honest from start and they will be great.

can look at mine tommorow and see what name is on it - got funny feeling its pilkington from memory the wiring inc relay was easily £100 before screen. need to replace mine after a lot of yrs, two wired dead so a slow to clear strip typical right in front of driver. Paired heated mirrors off it and boy thats nice on 2003 td5 defender.

i bought a wurth pressure sprayer bottle, think holds a litre for brake cleaner and its never leaked yet. not cheapest but seems really good.

garage i use has led lights in his new 110 so must be ok, theres some nightmare testers out there. second find rules and have a frank discussion with tester. second vote with feet - mine failed on lights as i have headlights with internal sidelight type bulbs, one dead on test so fail - hey ho i missed it. get replaced and shade of light doesnt quite match other side as different makes of bulb, fail again...... will i ever go back there - god no. are the mandatory position lights no - should they have failed i think not on shade of light.... garage next door who arent testers but do my work have now changed test stations as too many issues so definetly complain.

so to drag back up, this has been a little frustrating as selling old petrol unit privately has resulted in 3 folks expressing interest, one even messaging at time he was due to arrive to say had bought new elsewhere. so i am virtually a done deal on mac drop revolution 11/120 unit from same folks i bought original unit from. they have offered a good trade in so hard to refuse. Local company so perfect support etc. will post a bit of review once deal done and its here.

good long breaker bar and maybe a length of pipe too stowed safely in car. if especially fussy take two sockets that fit, and a spare knuckle joint and tool to change it - best cure ever cause if you have spares will never break original!

good point about clean cold water at end - guess a nice flush for system. shed is insulated and never below 5 degrees as theres a heater in there.

i use TFR currently and definetly needs a wipe but doesnt do too well on hydraulic oil or grease hence heat. having a look at nilfisk, some nice units there.