oneandtwo

Don't buy genuine ones, they last about 12 months. Get 4x Saab/renault exhaust mounts/bobbins from motor factor, they are exact dimensions and thread but far stronger and cheaper also. I buy them in bags of ten for under a fiver, and replace them on any 300TDi I do any work on as a matter of course.

Rough estimate 2002. Do you have to buy new? Door glass I thought was the same from about 87 onwards when the thichkness changed, I've fitted 1988 green tinted glass to my TDCi doors; if you are fitting older glass to newer doors you have to prise the white plastic clips off the old glass and bond them to the new glass with sikaflex or similar

No it isn't a standard Hi cap runs on exactly the same chassis. I have a Hicap that had a bent chassis from a jack-knifed trailler and I put it on a station wagon chassis, however I chopped a lot of the Hicap chassis up as it was used as repair sections to repair other 90/110s. (Such a shame it was bent about 6" out front to back as it was absolutely mint with not a spot of rust) a HD Hicap or any other HD 110 has a double thickness overplated chassis (which rusts really badly)

You might well get away with a 300tdi manifold but it will be close. I prefer this combination on a series anyway - disco 200TDI and 300TDi manifold - I had all three engines spare - disco and defender 200tdi and a 300tdi when I converted mine and decided this was the best and neatest option. You have to make a downpipe to clear the LH engine mount and I turned the turbo outlet so it was facing upwards although you need to TIG weld the wastegate actuator bracket if you do this.

That's a proper 90 PRV, It has one port which is undrilled, wheras the disco one is drilled. I guess you could use a proper blanking plug off a spare 90/disco rear caliper

Quite hard to take a photo as it's all tucked away. Brake pipes are to factory layout. (PS Yes I know the steering UJ is missing a bolt)

I will take some photos tonight, I have just made all new brakepipes in Kunifer exactly replicating the factory ones. You have to blank one port of the disco PRV to use on the 90.

A better choice would be Renault / Saab exhaust mounts as they are a direct replacement for the 300tdi mounts and far longer lasting. I get them £4.50 plus VAT for ten and change them as a matter of course on any 300tdi I work on. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-exhaust-mounting-bobbin-6mm-Renault-Saab-/321010606962?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4abdb92372

Actually the panel and demist light is genuine, I have three 97/98 300TDi defenders, all three have the front heated screen warning light. It's the later panel from the 1997 / 1998 model years. they also have the proper heater plug logo istead of the old choke logo that earlier 300tdis had.

Take the rocker cover off, turn the engine over by hand and feel the clearances. It will be obvious if one or more is damaged as the clearance will be way out on the rocker. Worth resetting all the valve clearances anyway (0.20mm in and ex) Halfords won't do 300tdi valve caps!

Almost certainly a failed valve cap. They wear a hole through them like a polo mint, causing the valve clearance to skyrocket. I would change all eight of them and reset the clearances. If there is no remains of the valve cap on the valve stem then have a good look around the rocker gear as once they are worn through they can jump off and sit in the bottom of the head. Also check the rocker faces for damage from directly contacting the valve - you can usually get away with it but I have had to change rockers before due to prolonged running with damaged valve caps. I once serviced a 300tdi and found the remains of five valve caps worn through in the cylinder head and very badly damaged rocker gear, no idea how long it had been like that but it made a terrible racket.

They drive off the timing cover pulley whic the viscous hub threads onto, using the belt routing intended for the aircon compressor, although they have a proper tensioner strut not like the aircon setup with an eccentric pulley

Its had it, I took it out and connected it straight to a battery and still shoots off the scale. Anyone got a spare to fill the hole?

I have one on my 90, not sure who manufactured it as it was on there when I bought it. The quality is not great, the silencer box is of good quality stainless however the pipes coming to and from it are of poor quality stainless and have begun to rust. The flange clamps are mild steel and very rusty although it is better than a standard exhaust system.

When I turn the ignition on, the 200TDi dash voltmeter swings all the way to the right past the graduations and sits on the needle stop, engine running or not. The voltage across the terminals is 12.4V, I am guessing the voltmeter is faulty? Anyone know if they are fixable? Thanks

They look totally wrong on anything non shiny. Especially when you have to remove the centrecaps to fit them on the older axles. You want a set of Wolfs.

You mean like this symbol It was lighting the heated front screen instead of the low fuel warning light which is in the same place on 200's. It has been so long since I've had a 200tdi I'd forgotten about the low fuel light and how annoying it is when the tank is 1/4 ful and it starts blinking everytime you go over a bump.

All connected up with zero cutting and soldering, no crimps or bodges anywhere, back to how it should be after a previous owners alarm instalation and god knows what else they had connected into it but never seen a loom like it. Turned it on and had issues with the warning light panel, it would turn on the front heated screen light for the glow plug light for 5 seconds and nothing else would light. It was a late 300tdi panel with the glowplug symbol not choke. cleaned all the connections but no other lights would work. Swapped it for a 200tdi panel and works fine with oil, battery and fuel lighting up and the cold start light in the right place. I guess the 300tdi panel is knackered although still cant work out why it lit the heated front screen light!

Excellent, many thanks. Should the brown of the split charge connector be connected to the battery? There is a long brown lead coming off the battery terminating in a bullet that appears to connect to the brown bullet of the slpit charge connector. Learn something new everyday, In the eleven defenders I've owned I've never realised that there is a warning light in the hazard switch! It's obvious that is whare the wires go now as they are coming out of the hazard switch part of the loom. Thanks for your help!

Thanks. They don't correspond with anything on the vehicle so I guess they are all spare. The yellow and black small loom I think is for N/A engines without glowplug timer setup. The other wire I can't find where it goes is black with a red trace, taped to a black, behind the dash, these are the small warning light type female spades but they both have adapters to make them standard sized male spades.

The black and yellow / black lead don't seem to be for the glow plug - It already has the all the glowplug wiring coming off the timer relay in a separate loom, this is all wired up fine and they operate as they should. These wires both terminate in spade connections and are bound together. The second is a three way rubber bullet connector - I didn't look at the colours properly - poor lighting! It has green wire, brown wire and black/slate wire. It comes off the main loom in the heater area. The third wire again I got the colour wrong due to lighting, it is actually white with purple trace, it comes from the chassis loom not the main wiring loom, and is heavier guage wire, same as the rear heated screen wiring. It could be that these are just unused connections for non fitted options? All my other Defenders are 300TDI's - much better with the multiplug connectors! A friend has a L reg 200TDi down the road with exactly the same loom but is away at the moment. Thanks!

I'm fitting a replacement uncut and unmodified late 200TDI wiring loom into my K reg 90 with a 300TDI/R380 conversion. It's all wired up but I have a couple of odd wires I'm unsure where they go or what they are used for- First ones are black lead and yellow/black lead with spades on, about 1ft long, coming from main loom just where it enters engine bay through bulkhead. Next one - three way connector - green, brown and black, exits main loom by heater unit. Brown has a long tail to it looking like it goes direct onto the battery? Last one (at the moment!), slightly chunkier white lead with brown trace coming from main chassis loom. Thanks!

Daan, I did the same as you've done to your manifold and intercooler a while ago on one of my 300TDi 90's, Didn't know there was any posts on it. I did it because with silicon hose I found there would still be leakage past the manifold inlet - the hose doesn't form around the flared part as a rubber one would as the ridge seems too high. I just used 51mm alloy hose joiners cut and tig'd to suit. I also recored the intercooler with 95mm twin tube core, the widest and deepest I could squeeze in without making new top and bottom caps as well. It cost about a third of the kit on ebay all in from memory!

It's a cheap universal intercooler meant for Citroen Saxo's etc with lugs welded on to allow it to fit in 300TDI radiator frame. The manifold has some pretty poor TIG welding; If I had done that to that standard I would'nt be photoing it. They haven't even flared the ends of the tubing to stop the pipes blowing off. Overpriced rubbish!

You can cut and burn out bushes but you will still need to use a press to remove the A frame ball joint. I had one approaching 20T recently before it moved. I have a 30T and I've never had it past 20T.