oneandtwo

It's not the relay connector; it's a direct feed from / to the Fuse box - Brown, White, earth and Brown/white- (HRW feed) All 300tdi looms have the rear wiper wiring built in, The plug I am after is for adding the HRW switch/relay into the loom. I have a 200TDi HRW loom and relay and this will connect up to my 300TDi loom with the correct plug (I could cut and solder them but loathed to cut a brand new loom). I will take a photo tommorow.

I have a brand new 300tdi wiring loom for my 90. It is the 'lowline' truckcab version however I want to wire in my heated rear window. The loom has the wiring present for this from a four pin connector in the dash wiring running back to the fuse box and also all the way back to the rear chassis. According to the parts files, the HRW add on isnt available separately; I checked on my other 300tdi and the add on loom I need is incorporated with the wiring for the fog / hazard switch. Does anyone have the info in Rave as to where I can buy the correct connector - the dash part is four pin non waterproofed female. Thanks

I have Makita electric ones. Brilliant, much better than cheap rubbish but you get what you pay for.

Why not buy a second hand snap on box. They are the best and they hold their value unlike others, in good condition you will get back what you paid for it. I have always done this, started off with a basic 4 draw Snap On top box and kept adding to it, then upgraded to a massive three section Snap On rollcab and sold the old ones and recouped what they cost me originally. One of the drawer sliders failed on one of mine - It was 20 years old - Snap On dealer replaced the whole drawer with a brand new one ordered from US for free no questions asked.

It is usually easily sorted by replacing the plastic cup on the selector shaft which wears, under a fiver, plus the gasket. Sometimes the shift turret wears aswell where the crosspin goes through which causes radial play in the gearlever, again the housings are not very much money and are the same as the LT77 box.

We have a D reg one which has 628,000 miles on original engine and box

Converting a TD5 gearbox to 300 is dead easy - If you can pick up a 300TDi disco R380 (very cheap now) you can easily convert it to fit a defender with 300 engine and gearsticks in the right place in under an hour using the existing TD5 R380 box. If you pull the outer housings off each one (6x M10 bolts and couple of detents) the gears/shafts come out in one whole unit. You need to swap the selector rail from the TD5 box to the 300 disco box which can be done in situ without stripping the gears apart or requiring any special tools. Bolt the disco box back together and use the TD5 shift top shifter housing / yoke etc.

I have been given a 110 which had a new non galvanised genuine LR chassis fitted 5 years ago. The chassis is almost perfect, still showing factory paint (including the rear crossmember which hasn't even started to rust on the seams between the two pressings), Unfortunatly however the front outriggers have rusted (rear ones perfect!) and more crucially the outer main chassis section between the outriggers and the front coil spring seat, which has rusted very thin due to stone abrasion and road salt and holed through. As the rest of the chassis is so good (I have gone over the whole lot with a needle gun), I want to repair it properly, not just patch it over the top. I have another chassis which is fine in these points. My plan is to remove the outrigger and coil spring seat, cut out the entire outer C section of the chassis rail between these two points and then replace it with a matching section cut from a good donor chassis, then weld on a new outrigger and spring seat. I'm a welder by trade so this is no problem however I know the chassis have internal stiffeners between the two C section pressings where the bulkhead bolts through, and double strength sections on the upper and lower curve. Can anyone tell me how the stiffeners are joined to the chassis on the production line - my guess is they are just welded to one side of the C section pressing before the other C section is fitted in place, as I can't see how they would weld the stiffeners to the opposite pressing once the two halves are in place. Thanks!

I am about to recommision my TDI 110 hicap. I need to replace the rear crossmember, if I fit a TD5 crossmember, what else do i have to modify / buy to fit the later plastic fuel tank? Thanks

thanks, I will have to take a look at a 2006 TD5 and see why mine won't sit flush without chopping a bit out of it.

I have the vice mounted SP tool, nothing else can touch it! I only have the 3/16" formers but luckily my friend has the whole set whihc I have borrowed to do 1/4" clutch pipes and series one brakes.

I have fitted a brand new late TD5 bulkhead soundproofing mat to my new late TD5 bulkhead, however my 300tdi fusebox cover now doesnt fit properly- the soundproofing has a raised moulded area just above the gearbox tunnel preventing the fusebox cover from sitting flush with the bulkhead. The fuse panel itself fits fine and is sat in correct position flush against the bulkhead Is the TD5 fusebox cover different from the earlier 300tdi cover to allow it to fit properly? Thanks!

I can't rememebr what the alisport full width one cost, £450 ish I think, I bought it a few months ago but not yet fitted it. To be honest, given the excellent performance of my 90 with standard size uprated intercooler, you can get standard size uprated intercoolers from M&D engineering for around £280

I have a 300tdi 90 with standard size allisport intercooler, twisted "typhoon" stainless/silicon pipes, straight through front/centre pipes, discovery transfer box. I also have another completely factory standard 300tdi 90 apart from straight through front/centre pipes. After driving the modified 90, the standard one sems like it is powered by an old 2.5NA; The modified one easily out accelerates the standard one despite having the higher ratio disco transfer box. I didn't do any of the mods on my 90, it came with them all fitted when I bought it so I can't say what was value for money or to what extent the fuel pump has been tweaked however it makes no visible smoke whatsoever under acceleartion. On the strength of this I have just bought a full width allisport intercooler, silicon pipe kit and disco transfer box for my other 90 aiming to equal or hopefully top the performance of the modified one. The TIG welding is immaculate on the allisport intercooler and it all fits nicely although you do have to cut down the lip on the front panel and lose the lower two grille mounting screws if you go for a full width one.

I had a load of new defender and a lightweight bulkhead hot zinc sprayed 4 years ago. The lightweight one is used everyday by the sea and there is not a spot of rust anywhere on it, I painted it with red oxide and then Nato green, nothing fancy, and there is no lifting or bubbling of paint either.

You used to be able to get basic chassis from Richards for around £600 galv, they deleted the middle crossmember and replaced it with box section with no PTO hole, I think the steel was slightly thinner guage. I bought two of them once.

Weld another nut on the 1/4" left protruding. Let it cool down. Heat the casting up with oxy acet or possibly a blow torch but may not produce enough heat, it will come out. I have to do it day in day out with iron and alloy castings on marine engines and very rarely do I ever resort to a drill

I was going to sell it as a running but unfinished offroad project as I've a lot of offroad kit I don't want to fit to it (sills, bumper, 8 spokes, series doors, hi capacity rear bulkhead) And I don't have time to sell bits off separatly, however, Perhaps I should just sell both engines separatly then, I actually have a couple of 200 disco engines to go but I'm in two minds whether to keep the 300 as a spare (along with two others I've hoarded - hence the need to downsize drastically) What sort of money would I expect for a engineless 1993 90 needing a crossmember? scrap money?

I have a half finished engineless Defender 90 truckcab offroad project I need to shift as I drastically need to downsize. It was originally a proper 200TDi 90 but it lost it's engine a year or two ago for another project. I have the choice of either fitting a very good Disco 200TDi engine to it's existing LT77, or fitting a 300tdi and an auto box out of my old disco; what would be preferable to potential offroad buyers? Due to time constraints it would just be dropped in chassis, mounts welded on, plumbed in and sold as an unfinsihed project, I really don't have time to fit out properly/fit exhausts etc. Any views most welcome!

The belts cost £7.99 retail for a dayco and take a maximum of five minutes to fit, I usually charge £15 all in!

Bit the bullet and bought two new steel ones. How drastic is the trimming of the door cards? Next purchase - rear door! The only thing original to this truck is going to be one front wing and the dash wiring loom!

I have an 80" that is on it's original springs, narrow front and rear, which were almost flat. At the time (three years ago) replacement narrow fronts were not available. The spring measurements are avaialble in workshop manual I think. I stripped them all down to component form, , drew an arc on the workshop floor corresponding to the correct measurements. Starting with the longest leaf, I bent it using vice by clamping it and pulling down on it about ten times along the leaf, layed it on the floor and bent the next leaf to fit to the first and so on. From memory i think I bent them a little bit more than the measurement. I then clamped them all together using new leaf bolt (from Dunsfold), checked against the measurement and if they were out, took them apart and corrected them. That was three years ago and they are still spot on and 80" sits level and saved £700 on a set of new springs made to order

Will my 300tdi mechanisms fit in the new steel doors? If I went for replacement alu skinned ones they would be brand new anyway so no electrolytic corrosion to worry about for at least a few years!

I'm after the part number for the blanking grommets for the left hand footwell of a TD5 bulkhead aircon holes Thanks!

I need a pair of new front doors for my 300tdi rebuild, Are the newer steel ones significantly better than the alloy skinned ones? Will my 300tdi mechanisms fit the newer doors if I decide to go for them or do I need to replace the whole guts as well? (What started off two years ago as a stripped R380 output shaft has now resulted in a new richards chassis, ashcroft r380, ashcroft disco transfer box, new 300tdi, new wings, new bulkhead, new back door, new rear tub wings etc so might aswell replace the doors with new as well!)