oneandtwo

The basic seatbox is the same lt77 to R380 apart from the cutout for the gearbox tunnel. An lt77 can be converted to r380 - the r380 tunnel flange is on a separate panel spot welded to the seatbox; it can be removed from the seatbox and rivetted to an earlier seatbox and then the seatbox trimmed away around the tunnel area and holes re drilled for handbrake (the r380 panel moves the handbrake to the right). You also need to re drill one floor bolt hole which also moves to suit the later floor. The r380 panel used to be available separately in a kit to do exactly the above.

Having had many defenders past and present I would never go back to the old welded frame / alloy skin doors again. They changed mid 05. The older inner panels can be fitted with a slight modification, as can the door cards (just need a slight trim) They are far stronger, resist dents, skins are zintex and don't rust, they shut with a car like positive clunk, not the usual rattle and vibration you get even with brand new old type doors. Instead of the two drainage Chanel's through the welded channel of the older doors there are a couple of proper sized drain holes. Mine are now 8 years old and perfect with no rust anywhere.

Buy a quality own one like quinton hazell. I put a cheap pump on mine last year as all I could get at short notice. Squealed as soon as it was fitted and bearings totally shot at well under 1000 miles.

90's reverted to two piece 24 spline halfshafts approx 2004 when the rear Salisbury axle was dropped from the 110. I believe it is to introduce commonality - both the 90 and 110 use the same halfshafts now. The newer 90's halfshafts are much beefier than they used to be but the splines are the weak point, I changed a pair on a 2006 which had stripped the splines on one side and the other was not far behind. My solution - I fitted a pair of old 300tdi one piece halfshafts!

Front seat rails changed approx 1985 from 2 bolt fixing at each corner (same pattern as series 3) to one bolt fixing. Other than the rails the seats were unchanged. Spacing was unchanged. 1990 front seats moved inwards approx 1" and new narrow centre seat to provide more elbow room.

I thought every shed and workshop has at least one Wanner grease gun gathering dust in the corner abandoned ever since cartridge refil guns became "mainstream"!

I have a Myford identical to that except I don't have the proper stand. It dates from 1949 and still going strong however given the choice I too would get something bigger (my ML7 was a freebie as was all seized up from many years in a leaking shed). My friend has a Denford Viceroy (I think) which is about a third bigger than the myford but makes a real difference on capacity. I wanted to turn a groove in a 1 1/8" tube yesterday and it won't fit throught the chuck on the myford so went round his and did job in 2 mins.

My parents want to replace their P reg County 90 with something newer and slightly more refined. What would be preferable, a late model TD5 90CSW 05 onwards with the new type doors or a TDCi 90? I know nothing about TDCi reliability or road tax bands for CSWs. They would be looking to spend 12-13k on one. Thanks!

Marsland chassis are genuine landrover ones BTW, they buy them direct from GKN and weld on engine mounts to suit.

I have had four Richards chassis (series and 90) My next one will be a Marsland. While Richards are not a bad product by any stretch, the ones I've had seem to be beset by human error. First one had to go back as they'd got a spring hanger wonky and it fouled the spring. Second one had a visible twist front to back, I seem to remember this chassis was delayed as the galvanising was messed up and had to be redone - possibly why it was twisted. My 300tdi 90 one has the a frame x member 1/2" out side to side.

My friend has an 04 td4 freelander. When he turns hard right, there is a terrible clicking sound from the left hand front wheel, I'm guessing it is cv joint (s) needing replacing. It doesn't click at all when turning left strangely I'd like to help him out but have never done anything on a freelander. How easy is it to change, I have two post lift and comprehensive tools but no specialist tools for this sort of thing. I am happy to help him out but don't want a nightmare of a job on my hands! Thanks

I had a set of pro comps. Bought them from craddocks who told me they had a lifetime guarantee. The chrome started rusting within weeks despite cleaning and spraying with wd40 regularly (only driven on the road). The fronts lost all damping after little over 12 months. Took them back to craddocks but they were particularly unhelpful and no longer honoured the lifetime guarantee as the distributor had changed. In comparison I have another 300tdi 90 with Old Man Emu shocks which are at least 8 years old and still brilliant.

Came across this P reg 300tdi 90 in use on a farm today, thought it might be of interest. Luckily the bonnet wasn't latched properly so I had to have a peek underneath to see how it worked! The under bonnet tubing and u bend appear to be from an old bath.

I had a 2A Lightweight with this setup, 1 ton front hangers welded to the dumb irons. Whoever did it knew their stuff, it was pre-parabolics but it had had half the leaves removed and was super flexible - the rear tub had the wheelboxes modified as it the wheels would touch but it still drove well on the road. Full roll cage, fuel tank in tub, 2286 on SU carb went like stink

Having a bit of a clearout found a 200tdi injector pump I took off a overheated engine some years ago. It seems very stiff to turn, have to use a 22mm spanner to turn it. Is this usual or is it fit for the bin (I don 't have a 200tdi so don't really need it anyway!)

What thread are the bolts holding the a frame to ball joint fulcrum and the steering box stabiliser? I thought they were 1/2" unf but appear not to be. Thanks.

Swapped the intermittent relay for one I found out of scrapped 300tdi and problem solved, thanks for offer!

Can't work out this problem - any ideas? 1993 200TDi 90 hardtop. The front screenwash pump and 5 cycle wipe will not function when the stalk button is depressed, it all appears dead. However when the screenwash pump motor is unplugged, the wiper system works fine and runs through its 5 wipe cycle. Putting a multimeter between the pump connector when disconnected shows 12V through the wiring system when the button is pressed. The earth is also good. The screenwash pump itself works fine when connected to 12v battery and also when swapped to the rear system. As soon as the front pump connector is connected to a pump the stalk button function does not operate (normal wiper motor functions up down on the stalk are unaffected) The rear screenwash pump which is on the same wiring to the pump operates fine at all times. I've tried a couple of pumps and column stalks. The wiring all appears good, no- one has ever messed with the wiring on the vehicle it is all as it left the factory. All connectors are clean. I havent tried changing the red AMR3841 unit as I havn't got another to try it with. Anyone any ideas on why it is not doing as it should!

You don't need any special tools or pullers, just a socket set, to strip down the box enough to access and swap the shift rail.

I have had a couple of 90 truck cabs with the wheels on the cab bulkhead. The proper carrier doesn't really hold the wheel very well and both mine were nearly new. they rattle like mad, bounce when you go over bumps and end up bending the brackets and one tore the alloy on the seat bulkhead.

approx 1987, when the window glass got thinner, the grey radio mount was introduced, seat runners changed from 2 bolts to one bolt etc. Many years ago I had a 90 D reg CSW with the brown headlining, and a F reg 110 CSW with the vinyl. The old stuff looks dated but seems to be far more hardwearing then the vinyl stuff.

It's not KL unless its a 90 / 110.

The two letters are the contract which dates the plate. The first two numbers and the last two numbers are just the vehcile number in that contract. Contract would start 01LK01, 50th vechile in that contract would be 01LK50, once the last two numbers reach 100 they go back to 00 so the 101st vehicle in the contract would be 02LK01. ER contract was 1966, FG contract 1968, HG contract was early 80's. Are you sure its not EK which would be correct for a 60's 2A demobbed in 1971? There are some real anoraks who could tell you more I'm sure!

300tdi and td5 bulkheads seem to last far better than pre 1994 ones. I have scrapped 1994 and 1996 300tdi 90s used for launching boats, they were rotten as a pear, I could fit my arm inside the inner chassis rails and the sumps rotted out ont the 300tdis, yet both bulkheads only required minor footwell repairs before being blasted and zinc sprayed. Personally I would get a cheap second hand early td5 bulkhead with detachable tunnel in good condition (£250 or so) get it blasted and zinc sprayed. Or if you have patience keep an eye out for new old stock td5 bulkheads, there are still a few out there from a few years ago, I bought two last year that had been stashed away and unused.

Is the chassis actually straight? I have purchased 3 new galv ones from usual aftermarket manufacturer in the past and not one has been straight. One was so bad it had to be replaced. My current new one has a crossmember 10mm out of line front to back