Pawl12

If its the same as the td5 in a Disco, the stud pattern on the exhaust manifold side is NOT equi spaced It is ewui spaced on outlet side. I'll post a photo a spare gasket later with dims. If your are in a hurry have a look on the brit-car website for the gasket.

Don't worry it's performance is fixed (vis the internal spring & piston diameters). The only thing to be semi careful about if in different orientation is bleeding it. Outlet ports should be upwards to help

For info : on the Disco 2 td5 that sensor is recognised as very unreliable& land rover even issued a service bulletin to suggest removing it if the vehicle dash water in fuel warning light operated excessively. Many td5 owners remove the sensor & tape the eiring connector out of the way. I'll look up the connector wiring in a while if you really think you want touse it.

Is it from under the car (eg sls compressor) or engine bay? If engine bay, I've heard there are abs faults which can cause the abs modulator valves to "chatter" after switching off.

Or have a look at Urban Panzers Disco 2 website at http://www.discovery2.co.uk/diff_lock.html

The hissing air sound could be the well known td5 warped manifold problem - which will also lose you boost. Check the manifold - head joint at the front & back of the engine for exhaust soot & be prepared for broken / loose manifold retaining studs.

As an aside : You've said the calipers have been replaced by new AP items. As previously said, the pistons should resist minor movement/ run-out of the brake disc. This is designed in via very close control of the caliper piston diameters & surface roughness, seal & seal groove dimensions & seal rubber properties. If any of the features is incorrect, the piston can move too easily through the seal or be very hard to move through them. On poorly made / re-manufactured calipers, this could be possible & might make "knock-back" much more likely. Since AP went out of business quite a few years ago, many service parts made with their name have been made in China, India etc - NOT in the original factory ( in Leamington Spa). If not already checked, it might be worth checking how easily the pistons move. Eg take off a front wheel / remove pads & try to push them in. If they move very easily with very little effort applied, they may be your problem.

Remove the cap briefly & re-fit - you can then guarantee any vacuum is "lost" (if present). If the problem disappears, replace the cap with a good one ! To generate a large enough vacuum to pull pistons in (more than 0.3 bar), the brake pads need to wear a fair bit - I'd guess more than 50%. So if the pads haven't worn anywhere near that since the brake reservoir cap was last removed, a blocked cap is unlikely as a cause. If it wasn't for the work you've already done on wheel bearings, I'd have been certain 1 or more having excess clearance would have been the cause !

The theory is that the vacuum in the system may not be enough to pull the pistons in on its own. But the flex in the wheel brgs as you turn to full lock may be enough to push the discs against the pistons, aiding the vacuum to move them inwards. Without the vacuum in the system the caliper piston seal friction is designed to be enough to resist "knock-back" - as long as the wheel bearing play is not excessive.

This might sound like a daft suggestion - but have you tried removing the brake fluid reservoir cap & checking if you have the problem still ? I've just read most of this thread (I used to work in brake systems for a long time - so was interested) & agree with the thoughts that you have 2 problems : 1 relatively quick vacuum loss - which doesn't seem to be causing you any real braking issue as the vacuum is "topped up" by the vac pump & 2 something is causing the caliper pistons to retract more than they should - creating significant pedal travel increase to push them back to the disc. If your reservoir cap is sealed - eg via damage, dirt or bad manufacture - the brake system is sealed & as the brake pads wear, a vacuum can be created in the system which will try to pull the caliper pistons inwards. If the caliper seal friction is low, the pistons can move quite easily & may only need a small bit of extra force from the wheel & brake disc moving with the wheel bearings as you turn. I've actually seen vehicles where the brake pedal had to be pushed right to the floor more than once before there was braking due to this. Releasing the cap removed the problem until the vacuum was re-created due to a lot more pad wear & increasing vacuum. Where are you based ?

I used an aftermarket sensor on the front when i had a 3 amigo problem. Cost all of £18, matched the resistance range it suggested in RAVE & solved my problem ( touch wood !)& didn't require anything other than hub separation & connector to be re-connected to install. Paul 2001 D2 TD5, 187,000 miles & climbing.

It's alleged to be possible. As you can drill the existing rubber out ( or burn it out if you're willing to put up with the smoke / mess). You should then be able to remove the centre bush & chisel / hacksaw the outer metal bush out. Pushing the new bushes in then requires a very good strong vice & lots of effort or you mske up some strong threaded rod & spacers to pull the bush in. A press is much easier for removal & re-fitting ! A way round the problem of how to get the arm to the press while the vehicle is undrivable is to borrow / buy a set of spare arms which you either re-bush first, then swop or just fit temporarily while you do yours. Paul 2001 TD5 186,000 miles & climbing

Responses after your questions : Using the air-bag spacer blocks you'll need to re-calibrate the air suspension, so that the new lifted height is recognised as the new "standard" ride height. I think it can be done via re-calibrating the SLS ecu or by extending the height senor links so that their angular position is the same as the "old" standard ride height. Others who,'ve actually done this may be able to give more details if you need it. Paul 2001 TD5 186,000 miles & climbing

I think you've probably lost some of the ball bearings out of the seat runners. Not sure how easy to get them back or if you need to replace the runners which should be the same as manual adjust seats I would think.

There's a torsion spring in the tensioner - to take up variations in belt length & ensure correct belt tension. So it will move if you load it up against the spring. Ours definitely "oscillates" a bit with the engine running- but not a lot.Possibly due to large no. Of pulleys & not all running perfectly true. I've not seen a soft or weak spring yet - they seem to generally give up with noisy / sloppy bearing. If its very easy to deflect the belt between the pulleys, the spring may be knackered & the tensioner needs replacing. How many miles has the engine done? How much is the tensioner wheel "bouncing" ? Just a couple of mm or lots more ? If lots, you need to look at the other pulleys to work out which 1 is bent or has very knackered bearings. If the movement is only a few mm, you should be fine for 50 miles. Paul 2001 D2 186,000 miles & climbing

It might be related to the serpentine belt moving on the pulleys as the engine stops. Its alleged by a few people that genuine LR belts are slightly different material & grip the pulleys better - and don't make this noise. Our td5 does it. I've checked the crankshaft pulley & it's fine, but haven't changed thr belt yet - as it appears to cause no other problems. Paul

I use 235/85 x 16 tyres when off-roading our D2. I think you'd have significant tyre rubbing unless the vehicle is lifted 2 inches & you modify the front bumper. On our pre-facelift I had to remove (cut-off) the the lower part where the fog lights are to avoid contact with the tyres.The front section of the inner wheel arch liner also had to be cut shorter & pulled forwards to avoid tyre rubbing at full lock. The 235/85's are approx 2.5inch larger diameter than the stock tyres - so they'll contact the front radius arms with much less steering lock than standard.You can add wheel spacers or increased offset wheels to get some steering lock back - although at the rear I'm not sure if you'll end up with tyre contact with the wheel arches at full articulation with spacers / increased offset (mine just clear with standard offset wheels at the rear. I use spacers on the front). You can get increased offset modular steel wheels from Paddocks for less than £40 each including the special steel wheel nuts. Because of the tyre height, if you have the increased wheel offset & you use full articulation off-road, the tyres will also rub the outer edge of the front inner wheel arch liner - even with the 2 inch lift. Gearing is different with the 235/85's - approx 10% higher than standard - so you need to remember you're speedo will under-read by that amount. Acceleration in higher gears will also suffer due to the higher gearing & unless the engine is tuned you might even find you need to drop out of 5th on uphill sections of road dependant on what speed you like to cruise at. Surprisingly on ours it's exactly 10% low vs our sat-nav's gps accurate speed. Paul 2001 D2 TD5

As long as the centre brg in the double cardon joint is ok, changing them is straight forward, but painful to get the centre lump orientated. The other end is easy. Paul 2001 td5

There's lots that have fitted solid flywheels & then changed back to Dual Mass within months

Td5s upto march 2001 should have the internals in the box & only need the modified high low lever ( i was lucky, ours is march 2001 !) Paul 2001 td5 GS manual

Type Approval's required for all Towing installations for vehicles homologated after 1998. Eg Disco 2 is included, but Defender isn't because it was homologated earlier. Paul, 2001 D2 TD5 GS, 179,000 miles & climbing

Mike, I've submitted a response to you additional questions, but it has not appeared yet (maybe awaiting moderator approval). If it doesn't appear by mid-day Thursday I'll re-post in case its disappeared. Paul

Mike, the mount I used was from a local fabricator (www.4wheeln.co.uk) - a copy of a TerraFirma or similar. I think most are almost identical, but I wouldn't be surprised if there were minor differences in hole positions & dimensions - dependant on which 1 was originally copied. I don't think it matters which make you start with - apart from definitely avoiding those stupidly priced at over £100. They have no more features than the cheaper ones from what I've seen so far . The only thing to probably check is that the steel is minimum 6mm (1/4 inch) thick, to make sure it doesn’t bend under winching loads. I paid ~£70 & thought it a lot for 3 bits of relatively simple steel. I ended up re-drilling the side bracket hole positions to fine tune the winch position as I said in my first post ( I tried slotting them with a file initially, but rapidly realised I wanted to move the positions more than I wanted to file !). I have a very short aftermarket steel bumper (FirstFour Shadow bumper), so I had less space to play with than the standard Land Rover bumper. Because of the size of the winch / winch cable position, I also had to re-drill the winch mounting holes about 25mm off to one side to centralise the winch between the chassis rails (Using 9500lb Warrior / Champion winch). The front slot for the winch cable outlet was also made larger, longer & slightly higher to ensure that the winch cable didn’t drag on any sharp edges when pulling at an angle & to make sure it wasn't visible through the fairlead. I think you’ve almost got to expect mods of some sort unless the winch is very small - because the space is so tight around it. I did all of my installation work in a day, with the bumper still on, but loose & the grill off to allow access from above. If you’ve got someone else to help, great – but if not you’ll probably need to use wooden blocks or similar to support the winch mount while “fine tuning” & a trolley jack to lift the winch & mount assy into place before final fixing. Be ready for some bruised knuckles ! I've modified a steering guard to fit onto the discrete mount. If you want a steering guard as well as the discrete winch mount, I'm not sure if there are any you can buy that will fit without substantial mods. I’ve not bothered with a second battery / split charge system as mine is also an everyday truck & winch use will be very occasional. I’ll just need to have the engine running when using it. The end result is fairly neat I've also "cobbled up" a cover by modifying bits of my old broken bumper so thieving scr***s can't easily notice I've got a winch. Paul

I shortened the stick on our disco 2 by about 1.5 inches. The limit was the metal housing for the vibration isolator ( not sure if tdis have the isolator) The effort to change gear is not significantly different. I reduced the length just to improve position of gear knob slightly rather than reduce the movement. Paul 2001 D2 td5 179,000 miles & climbing

The Land Rover part you've identified is actually to reinforce the bottom of the standard bumper & is the first part you throw-away when carrying out the discrete mount installation. As suggested by Blanco follow, the "how to" on www.discovery2.co.uk - it's a good guide & with good photos. Dependant on your front bumper type & how neatly you want it to look, you may need to modify the discrete winch tray mounts to fine tune the height & fore/aft position of the winch & fairlead. I assume you already realise you'll have to find space in the engine bay for the isolator & operating relay / contacter & that access to the freespool lever will be difficult vs standard (very visible) winch installation. I followed the how to successfully & have a really neat installation now (using a Warrior / Champion 9,500lb winch). Paul 2001 D2 TD5 179,000 miles & climbing