Bowie69

I believe they are drilled slightly differently, but otherwise will bolt together, in fact I think the Gems will even bolt to a 3.9 inlet.

Oh man, that's beautiful, even if it is a just a mockup for the moment.

£140 currently.... pa that is. Worth every penny.

A friend has just had his series insurance double to just over 1K.... He's not old and wrinkly like me, and earns a reasonable wage, but I could see it still stung. All to say that insurance costs may be your biggest issue with anything with a green oval badge on it at the moment.

Surely any acid will get neutralised first and then boiled out of it by the molten zinc bath? Otherwise all new panels would suffer the same.

On a Mac, QuickTime can do that for you too, File --> Export as... The other way to do it is jam it on YouTube and copy/paste the url into a post on here, and it will auto-embed.

TD5s are not complex beasts at all really, yes of course more complex compared to a 2/300TDI, but then most things are. A TD5 was designed in the 90s, so it is already 30 years old! Nowadays with a scan tool of some description and some googling you get anything done DIY, just the same as a TDI. Plus the 5 cylinder does sound a lot better, well, at least for a diesel

Actually, he's now bought a diesel RRS....

NPT is most common for this sort of thing, if you ever had to swap it out you're more likely to find a direct replacement, IMHO.

So clearly not really a worry....

33mpg is WAAAAAY more than my 91 2.3l 20V Audi gets.

Seems like it has been left/come loose and the bolt has worn the metal tube down and now it won't crush down and clamp it tightly -you may get away with just tightening it temporarily, but if it has been like that for any time time it should really be replaced. A lot of people use Superpro poly bushes in there with reported improvements, as the rubber ones, especially if aftermarket, really don't last.

Honestly, if the pan is in good nick then one of these half-protectors does 90% of the protection you need: ebay.co.uk/itm/185742334578?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338749392&toolid=20006&customid=GB_131090_185742334578.146649679390~1869457966696-g_CjwKCAiAlJKuBhAdEiwAnZb7lVvY64a0CPNnFkn6LGnBQzQpGXZrDZS7SjpJN_GNRKXg5SHbXwCCuxoCS5UQAvD_BwE They don't stay full of mud unless you are completely neglectful after being offroad, and are very tough indeed.

Yep, the Sport is just way more slippery it seems.

It has been done, and even photographed on here, but they do tend to look just a tad odd, the stock LR pan is quite snug and when you put a big thing like that on it sticks out rather a lot...

Fair enough, I've been schooled!

In Jordan, are you really worried about fuel economy?

Yeah, pretty good value too. Halfords include in some of their kits a 10mm hex bit holder you then use with your 10mm ratcheting spanner, which is even slimmer, but this was an easier/quicker find.

Have you got some Torx screwdriver bits? These are handy for this sort of tight spot: Sealey Ak6962 Bit Driver Ratchet Micro 1/4 Hex Stainless Steel : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

If you go into the wheel page, and choose the manufacturer and model it states the -20ET does not fit a Land Rover, presume it is for a Jap pick up or something similar. There's also a nice diagram showing how offset effects the wheel Easy way to see where a wheel will sit is measure from the wheel mounting surface out by however much dish you have on the outside of the rim.

Honestly you'd probably be better off with a more modern gearbox unless you like a clunky old rattly thing... It'll probably cope, but unless you are wedded to it there are better options. The LT230 will be fine.

....and a fire extinguisher.

Glad to hear this: Not so much this: This one could have failed of course.... What trigger wheel are you using, the one on the flexplate or one on the crank pulley? I assume flexplate if you are using the GEMs VR sensor. I also assume it is running without EDIS given all the messing with trims etc? You could be getting cross-talk from another HT lead. I would be wary of relying on this as a way to confirm when something is firing or not. This is classic failed or backwards VR IMHO, that or too big of a gap between VR and trigger wheel, or not enough steel in the teeth. I don't suppose it is too easy to measure the gap if you are using the flexplate? My final thought is if you have a spare EDIS8 kicking about, give it power and ground and jerry rig it to the coil packs and see what it does spark wise? it will be a fixed 10 degrees without a SAW, but that doesn't matter. Would eliminate the ECU from all this.

Measuring it can work, but honestly, I've always had better results when doing it by 'feel', if it flops around left to right then it is too loose, if tight so that it stops immediately when you stop pushing then it is too tight.

Agreed, same with the Mehari, some Mediterranean island, Spain, morroco etc it would be great.