Bowie69

Yup, I even welded a tab to the right hand side especially to take the earth clamp Means the whole bench, and the vice is then earthed, great for holding components and sticking them together. It doesn't really rust to be fair, except when you spill brake cleaner on it, but then a quick wipe with gear oil and it's back to it's lovely patinated self again One thing, I put a return on the front edge of the sheet (well local engineering firm did) which means the front of the bench is also steel, gives a less-sharp edge, but also useful for beating stuff against occasionally. Paint chips and gets lodged in critical components, I wouldn't want it on my bench personally

Exactly my thoughts! Mine is made from victorian 12"x4" roofing timbers, with 3mm steel plate on top

Download RAVE, and use this to mount the disc image, no need to burn to CD: http://www.slysoft.com/en/virtual-clonedrive.html

With 14ft to play with, a 2ft deep bench coming maybe a third of the way along one side s not going to get in the way.

V8 blocks are all essentially the same externally, so you can probably bolt 3.5 mounts to a 4.6 block and away you go.

If you wanted a 'get you running' MSQ, I am sure Nige could provide you a link.... To give you an idea, I ran a Lexus V8 on a Rover V8 map with NO modification at all, then tuned it.

This is where my thoughts had got me to as well.

Very nice Engine-driven I presume?

Toe out wears inside edge, tow in wears outside edge.

If you use Chrome, it offers to translate it all for you....

Just switch the whole lot to hydraulic drive, problem solved, no?

That and if it goes wrong in the Freebie, you are alive, you get it wrong in an 'extreme' situation in FF's 109 and you probably kill yourself.

Well no not on every vehicle, was giving an example of 90/110/RRC as I knew it The one you link to is the same as for the 90/110

Speedo/transducer drive is sort of a pass-through arrangement, you still have a cable coming up to the dash: http://landroverparts.roversnorth.com/Products.aspx?code=821&key=cat

They always seem a bit fiddly, but that is a fair way out, as above, I would just drill them out.

Yup, start with 18-20 and see if it fires, then do the tuning and don't ever touch it again. I think the official figure is 18.3 lb, but it really won't matter.

if you have replaced the arms/joints/bushes, then the only other thing I can think of is the strut mount, if knackered it could mean the resting position of the suspension is slightly negatively cambered. I would think it unlikely to be THAT bad, but worth a check if you find you still have clunks. I assume you have you checked the track rod ends being that close to it all recently... Checked your VCU? A good alignment place ought to be able to tell you your camber figures.

Exactly, MS won't care, just make sure it is calibrated properly

I presume you have to do something about the asthmatic mouse that is the heater/blower to get these to work properly.... I *think* these were the original ones: http://www.defenderdemister.com/

No that's fair enough, I was coming from the POV that £450 is a lot to spend when you have a shoestring budget, and it should be avoidable depending on what Dave wants to do... and better to know up front rather than when you have spent 100+ hours and then have your hand forced by the amount of work you have already done!

Sorry, I thought this was a forum for advice, I checked it wasn't in *that* forum before posting.

LRO have a habit of glossing over IVA/SVA and associated issues and have in the past given completely wrong advice, e.g. On a bobtail 'I haven't changed the wheelbase so it didn't need testing.' Wrong.... There are a few on here that know about IVA/SVA and how to avoid it legally, so do ask away if you want to know.

What sort of 2.5mm cable? I hope you don't mean mains flex There's info on this here: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/cable/standardcable.php And for thinwall insulation, here: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/cable/thinwall.php

I was extending mine, so made sure they were clear by removing and then sticking an air line down them, then with a 1/4" joiner, some extra pipe, and a couple of straight connectors job was done.

I would go with some proper connectors if I were you, so easy to dis/reconnect, electrics aren't that tricksy to be honest, just need a level of common sense.