Bowie69

OK, did you put stainless hoses in or regular rubber ones? If rubber, clamp one, then try the pedal, then the next etc, and you can narrow down which line is giving you grief, and just bleed that one, if none of them do it then it'll be the ABS block....

They really hjave come down in price, for laptop-based solutions: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OBD2-II-USB-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-SCANNER-FAULT-CODE-READER-/280637741989?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4157501ba5 No experience of the above, but for a £10 I'd chance it. Another cheap option: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OBD-2-II-Auto-Code-Reader-Diagnostic-Scanner-Scan-Tool-/180787321300?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a17c399d4 And better one, that you can read real-time values etc: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professional-Car-fault-scanner-reader-OBD2-EOBD-Tool-/160708200313?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item256af48779 For someone with an OBDII car and a penchant for fixing them, I would say it is a must have.

Marevellous, well done I've never been able to get a perfect pedal just by bleeding, a short drive always seems to sort it out (1/4 mile or so )

For those interested, the inspection manual is available as a download now, rather just being able to view it online as it was previously: http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/m4_int.zip

If it's not there it can't be tested.

Nothing mentioned about a tell-tale: On vehicles fitted with a towbar, check the condition and security of the trailer electrical socket. Note: This check applies to both 7 pin (12N) and 13 pin electrical sockets. 3. A trailer electrical socket: a. insecure b. damaged or deteriorated to the extent that the connecting lead could not be securely connected. 4. On vehicles fitted with a trailer 13 pin Eurosocket, use an approved device to check that the socket is wired to correctly operate the trailer: • Position lamps • Stop lamps • Direction indicators • Rear fog lamp

I got mine from V8 Tuner, don't remember the exact manufacturer -give him a ring, very helpful chap

This is pretty much it actually, imagine having a bloomin HUGE rad, say 3 times the capacity, there would be no need to run the fans just because coolant temps coming out of the engine were at 95C (where for efficiency manufacturers like to operate at or above nowadays) if the outlet from the radiator is down at 60C -the radiator is more than capable of cooling this by itself, with no fan assistance. If a radiator is smaller (like most vehicles) and the temperature at the outlet of the radiator is approaching the running temperature of the engine, this is when the fan needs to switch on. Basing the switching temp on the outlet of the engine is actually assuming the radiator will not cool the water sufficiently by itself, which it may.... From X-Eng's site: 'The thermostatic switch insert we supply is designed to switch one fan on at 88 degrees C and off at 83 and the other on at 92 and off at 87 which is about right for most vehicles.' So as you can see, the switch is rated to realitvely low temperatures, 92 is only just above the running temperature of the engine, but would probably equate to an engine outlet temp of around 105C or so. 88 is the normal stat opening temperature of most LR products (more modern coilers at least) so if you fitted it in the top hose the moment your stat opens your fan would start running -not good! Anyways, I hope all is clear now Ross - sorry, last post I promise you s3ndy -good luck with your project

Thanks Ross

Also really helps if you jack one wheel of the axle you are looking at up, so any wind up in the drivetrain is released.

Sounds like a prop UJ to me...?

I'm not on about motor manufacturers..... The x-eng switch is specifically designed to go in the bottom hose. Sigh

Have a read: www.x-eng.co.uk/Instructions/X-Fan.pdf Bottom hose, for a reason.

These ones are correct, according to Haynes and Rave: http://flrc.erovers.com/2007/10/14/troubleshooting-abs-light-on-rr-classic-and-disco-1s.aspx 4-14 is front left, first thing to do is check wiring, clean around the sensor and pull it out with a large flat blade screwdriver-tap home. Then get it up over 8mph and hopefully the light will go out, if not suspect a dead sensor, or even CV joint, as this is where the ABS reluctor ring is situated. Nip to a scrappy for a spare couple -the front ones are the same, I expect them to be very cheap (£10 or so).

Quaife is likely to be a limited slip diff of some sort, certainly a lot stronger than a standard thing, and good value at £120, so offer him 80 Have a looksie: http://www.quaife.co.uk/shop/search/results/taxonomy%3A824%2C621%2C229 IF you don't buy it and it's 10 spline I will

What's the small number in the speedo read? It could of course be that it is faulty, but also out, and also not calibrated to your drivetrain, you may find a different speedo from say a Triumph or other road-going car actually fits and is accurate for you... IIRC the number in the dial is the revolutions per mile, work this out with your drivetrain and wheel combo and then start hunting....

Ah yes, silly me

Look slike you are making progress with those flares, don't worry about it being slightly off centre, but it does look slightly like you have a tiny bit too much sticking out when flaring, you should be able to tighten it right down so the die is flat to the tool. Good luck

Mikey, can;t see any reason why not, but I would suggest will be swapping out pistons too though... which means if you have buggered bores you may be into new rings etc, that is if they haven't been overbored, or have both been bored out the same.

Not wishing to sound negative, I think you may struggle to find competitors for one hill climb, especially given the price of diesel these days. UK competition scene seems to be moving more and more to 2 day events, to make the travel worthwhile, this seems to be in the opposite direction, however if you can make a go of it then very good luck to you

What does the old one feel like? Doesn't look too bad to me... may just be the pics.

Yes it should be Dexron II, red, and is the only lubrucant in the power steering system. If a clear fluid is dripping off the arm, check the engine oil cooler connections in the RH side of the rad, and the associated lines, lastly, IIRC the brake lines run above the box so they could leak and transfer fluid down to the box pretty easily....

Now that clip was much more impressive than the other, very well done Soren!

When I fitted mine (OE) it wasn't that tight, no, but not what I would call slack, got a pic?

Double flare instruction with good pics here: http://classicbroncos.com/brake_line_flaring.shtml Are you sure they need to be double flares? I thought they had the 'bulb' type on the ABS block...?