need4speed

Your probably mistaken. Big bikes have really powerful headlights. They have to. When im on dip beam its amazing how many cars coming the other way flash me thinking im on full beam. This really p!sses me off so when i DO REALLY put the full beam on, you can see the inside of their car light up! Anyhoo i was actually agreeing with you about pilchards pulling out on you, therefore im with you on keeping your lights on all the time.....

Thats why us bikers ride about with dip beam permanently on. When cocks pull out in front of us ("because they didnt see us") it can easily kill.....

Thats brilliant nige

Really thought more of Sam than to buy britpart swivels... tut tut tut...

Holy thread revivals batman!!!! Surprised it took so long considering the topic......

How much cranking will i be able to do before i start to damage the new cam or lifters? Im just wondering as it seems to be quite common that the VR sensor is connected the wrong way, even if wired to diagram...

Thanks Quagmire. Thats what i suspected but just wanted someone to confirm

Thanks guys. Just 1 thing Bowie. In case of the dreaded MS "run-on", what would be the quickest, safest way to kill the engine in case of emergency? I know there is a diode i can solder into place that counters this, but i wasnt going to fit it unless i really needed to?

Got the majority of the EDIS wired up tonight. Only thing ive still to do is the VR sensor. This is obviously shielded, with the shield connecting to pin 7. Is it just a simple matter of baring back the outer cable sheath, unravelling the shield and connecting it directly to pin 7?

Hopefully im going to be in a position soon where i can turn the key of my new 4.6. Now considering im breaking in a new cam / lifters at the same time i really want it to fire up without too much faffing around... Would it be more likely to fire up 1st time if i dont introduce things like lambda and pwm, or will that make no difference? Im just thinking of the KISS principle where the less i have connected, the less can go wrong? Any additional tips on 1st start greatly appreciated.

As above, look in the direction of the non-spinning pushrod. Its telling you its not happy about something.

If there that easy to machine, could you knock me out a set for my RV8 please?? £100 cover it??

I reckon an LT77 or R380 would deal with it admirably.................................................until you let the clutch out!

Ok so its not a vehicle, but ohhhhhhhhhhh yeah! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BIG-BLOCK-FORD-BBf-460-572-V8-9-4LT-ENGINE-CUSTOM-HOTROD-capri-v8-850-HP-/121286011924?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c3d35ac14#ht_1298wt_1190 The conrods are a work of ART

Real Steel "stump puller" well worth looking into..

Thanks for that mav. Every day is a schoolday

Ah. So are we saying there are different types?

Its a little...........bold to say that. Id hardly say that the MS kits are "hobbled together". Theres been a little more thought put into it than that. Ive always gotten a straight answer to my MS-related queries - either from Nige or peeps on here that have done it before me. Ive not quite finished mine yet, but thats not because of lack of support on here but more my lack of time/funds. Also, not only will Nige post worldwide but a wealth of support is either a phonecall or click of the mouse away. Like Fridge said, unlike other companies, Nige wont charge you for advice if you buy one of his kits. I have nothing whatsoever to do with Nige. Havent even met him, but cant sing the guys praises highly enough when it comes to helping out...

Thanks as always Ralph. I had noticed 2 different part numbers, but maybe it was just because one of them was superceeded..

Firstly, remember the RV8 is an American engine (Buick). So maybe Holly will do a system for it. However as Fridge says, Megasquirt offers a wealth of local knowledge/experience should you run into problems. If something is as tried and tested as MS is, id advise sticking to it..

Starting to accumulate the parts i need to make the clutch pedal / master cylinder assembly for the v8. Ive noticed there are a couple of different types - up to TD5, and TD5 onwards. I was just wondering what type is best, and are they interchangable?

Well some are saying that Victor. Im not. Im saying you need to be careful whether modified or standard. Wise people would take the vehicle a drive before they buy. This way if something is dangerously wrong it will be obvious....

Like i keep on saying. I understand the argument for buying unmodified, but ive seen countless standard-spec vehicles that would stick you in a hedge as well......

Easy? Yes Cheap to design/develop? Definately not