Snagger

Yep, sure. By the time you fit the viscous hub, there isn't enough room left for the fan itself. I tried, but had to settle for an electric fan, even though my rad is in front of the cross member.

Worse than that - with the rad in the standard Series position, there isn't enough space between the water pump and rad face for the fan. Even if you mount the rad over the cross member, the fan will hit the cross member.

The spacer for the lift pump is only used if the operating lever (internal, that impinges on the cam shaft) is too long - these lift pumps can be used on a variety of engines, and there are many versions of pump too. Compare the length of arm on the old and new pumps to determine if it's needed.

If you heat the rod to straighten it, it will also anneal it to relieve stresses that may want to bend it again. Then heat it red hot again and throw it in a bucket of cold water or oil to quench it - that'll make it hard so that it won't bend. As for why it isn't standard length, it'll be because the difference in level between the slave cylinder mounting point and the flywheel will be different from the 4-pot.

There are differences, but I believe they're just brackets.

I don't think car manufacturer is important - they probably come from only one or two fan manufacturers. The important thing is to get the biggest that will fit the radiator, and having the sides of the fan exceed the sides and bottom of the rad is no problem - you can make baffle sheets to fill the gaps, but the bigger diameter would include more of the corners of the rad, so it really is a case of biggest is best. Alternatively, for a smaller fan, you can make a cowl that runs as a square from the edge of the rad, a flat sheet at the back with a circular hole for the fan which ensures that the fan sucks air through the corners of the rad, not just the circle prescribed by the fan rotor. Ideally, the back panel would be bevelled, but as long as there is an air gap between it and the rad surface, it'll work.

Glad to hear it's all working well! They do go nicely with a Tdi if you've been used to a 2.25 or a 2.5 nad of one type or another. At least the noise of this engine is nothing new to you, except the turbo sound. The modern engines are designed to run a little warmer than Series' engines. That said, your intercooler and oil cooler may be a bit restrictive fore the rad. You have plenty of space above the steering relay for the oil cooler if this turns out to be the case, but I found the temperature needle would sit with its left edge against the top left corner of the N letter, so if yours is roughly similar, then I reckon you're ok. The fan is important, though.

Properly reconditioned should do the same. The problem is that most reconditioners skimp by using borderline parts and pattern parts. But any LR specialist should be able to source one through Gen Parts; I got a SIII transmission that way (which had been incorrectly assembled and had a failure after 10,000 miles).

It looks like a length of rubber hose over the plastic hose, either for protection or to pack out the Jubilee clip.

From what I understand, the old 12J 2.5NAD is quite good in that application as it has high compression, so doesn't need the revs a Tdi needs to get the turbo spun up. With a propane injection system, that should do very well, and would be very easy to surce, very cheap, and the only non-standard part would be the propane system, so insurance and maintenance should be simple.

Don't go for option 3 as it has plenty of negative long term implications for you and could see your costs rocket. I would point out that the work was unsatisfactory and that you had to rectify what they couldn't sort out, and that they misdiagnosed the poor performance, and then negotiate a price from there.

There is a residual stiffness in the viscous hub, but the fan should spin by hand (though it will stop quickly). If you can't turn it by hand, then it has seized. They tend to fail completely when they do go, either fully seized or full free (very easy to spin with minimal residual resistance), so as long as you can spin it but it swiftly stops, it's fine.

When the engine is not under load, it can rev freely, so takes little fuel to achieve high rpm. This means the EGT is low, too low to provide energy to spin the turbo up significantly and thus too low to provide any measurable boost. Boost diaphragms can split, but that is not common, and the mechanism can seize. The spring in the diaphragm chamber is quite stiff, so the force required to open t by hand is high. As long as you can do so, and it returns by itself to the closed position, then the system is almost certainly serviceable. The main concern is over whether the boost pressure setting has been tampered with, which is done by altering the length of the rod that joins the diaphragm pot to the gate lever. That's why I mentioned looking for the yellow anti-tamper paint marks. Hearing the turbo when cold idling may just be a harmonics issue - the cold oil in the floating bearings and the minimal exhaust flow and EGT will be turning the turbo at the lowest speed it ever achieves with the engine running, and it might just happen to be an rpm that has a harmonic noise frequency. If there is no excess bearing play and no visible damage to the blades, I wouldn't worry about it.

When the engine is not under load, it can rev freely, so takes little fuel to achieve high rpm. This means the EGT is low, too low to provide energy to spin the turbo up significantly and thus too low to provide any measurable boost. Boost diaphragms can split, but that is not common, and the mechanism can seize. The spring in the diaphragm chamber is quite stiff, so the force required to open t by hand is high. As long as you can do so, and it returns by itself to the closed position, then the system is almost certainly serviceable. The main concern is over whether the boost pressure setting has been tampered with, which is done by alteringt he length of the rod that joind the diaphragm pot tot he gate lever. That's why I mentioned looking for the yellow anti-tamper paint marks.

I'd still be wary. By orienting the panhard rod and drag link slightly high at the chassis end, LR have set up a system that will give minimal axle lateral movement for very large spring compression, the rods moving either side of horizontal (and the trigonometry resulting in tiny effective length increases). If you set them level at rest, big compressions of the springs will result in the rods being well off the horizontal, and that will give a strong lateral tug on the axle. The static inclination is quite deliberate to account for suspension movement; LR could easily have set it statically level as you are trying to. I think it's a bad idea. I'd recommend you fit a better condition drop arm and ball joint of standard nature, be it Def or Disco spec, and use the standard panhard mount and see if the fixed ball joint cures the handling problem. I really can't see how the standard rod inclination is responsible.

You need a new MoT inspector - this one will get you and your family killed. Evidence of a brake hose being marked by rubbing on anything is a failure item in most cases. Certainly your hose being crushed is. That hose needs replacing urgently. Braided hoses do give a sharper pedal, and they are more resilient, but they are not necessary. One down side to them is that they shouldn't be clamped, whereas normal rubber hoses can be clamped when working on a calliper.

As long as the panhard rod and drag link are parallel, you'll avoid bump steer. A small incline should have no effect on wandering. I'd be inclined to fit stiff poly bushes, anti-sway bars and firmer dampers and see if that tighten everything up for you. Unless you have an incredibly high suspension lift, I really can't see how all this work can have any significant benefit.

I would guess that the condition of the part, other than the seizure, is good - clean and rust free, indicating that it was only fitted briefly. One of the parts of the Sales of Goods Act is that the part has to be "fit for purpose". Even if the part had been installed in February and failed yesterday, it wouldn't qualify as fit for purpose.

In that case, just make sure the raised rod can't foul the engine or chassis on full spring compression. I suspect it'll be very tight.

I had BFG ATKOs (235/70) on my RRC and thought they were fantastic, especially in winter. I have never tried the Grabbers, though.

Red is right. It matters not what the path is; if the ends of the drag link are at different heights, you're still going to have bump steer with the panhard rod out of parallel. You need to either lower the ball joint at the steering box end by having a swan-necked drop arm or lowering the box down, or raise the opposite ball joint up so that the rod is horizontal with some sort of adaptor/extender block on the swivel housing arm, which would be very difficult to make robust. I think the best you'll get is to use a P38 steering box, which is much taller, with new bolt holes drilled in the chassis and a new lower bracket welded to the chassis, possibly in conjunction with a modified drop arm to crank the arm lower. Frankly, I think you'll find very little benefit for all the work and would be best returning everything to standard. Are you sure it's not new panhard bushes rather than geometry which reduced wandering?

He buggered the rear joint angle on your down pipe too, then? He did that on both my 12J and Tdi pipes. His workmanships is nowhere near as bad as the company's service, though. Expect to be shouted and sworn at and called a liar if you call them with a complaint.

If it's a UK business, then under the Sale of Goods Act he has to replace the part or refund your purchase (and perhaps shipping costs, but not sure about the latter).

http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/easy-breathing/ The first photo in this post was while I still had the 12J, the second after the Tdi was installed, but the filter system has stayed unchanged. You see the adaptor pipe between the corrugated hose (from the Defender side intake) to the 19J filter housing intake, and it has a union on the top of the adaptor. In this case, I'd blanked the union with a rubber cap so that the 12J's breather fed directly into the manifold to keep the filter clean, but on the Tdi installation, I routed the breather to that union as, firstly, you cant plumb it into the pressurised manifold, and secondly, I wanted the oil caught before it contaminated the ducts, turbo and intercooler. By using a K&N, I don't have to worry about the filter getting soggy and collapsing - K7Ns need to be moist, and the dirtier they are, the better they filter the air.

As said, make sure the waste gate actuator is free to move, as they can seize. Seized shut, this will result in an overboost. As far as adjustment goes, if the yellow factory paint is on the lock nut, leave well alone. If not, a local tuning specialist should have calibration equipment and it's simple to set. Apart from connecting the boost pipe from turbo to pump and readjusting the fuelling, there is nothing to be done on those parts. I think the screw is wound in to increase fuelling, so just try 45degrees at a time until you get light smoke under full acceleration. If you call Bob at Dieselbob Tuning, he'll advise better on how to do it - he did my pumps and was generous with advice. The L-bracket and U-clamp for the exhaust use a single bolt into the side of the block roughly half way along and a couple of inches above the joint with the ladder frame. If I remember correctly, the U-bolt ends were forwards, but you won't be able to fit it the wrong way around. The U-bolt is fitted horizontally.. I'll look for photos. Edit: look at the second last photo in this link http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/not-a-lazy-sunday/ and look for the bolt hole between the starter motor and engine mount in the reinforcing webs, and the second photo of this http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/engine-oil-leak-remedy/ in the shadows behind the engine mount, showing the bracket and U-bolt nuts.