Snagger

Judging from the above photos, it looks like the 101 shares the same components as a SII or SIII. Just imagine a SII/SIII steering column orientated vertically, running down your shins. The box is fitted tot he chassis and the drop arm is fitted so it points upwards. Like the SII and SIII, it moves a link for and aft that acts on the top arm of the relay, set in the same way as a SII and SIII's, which operates the relay and drag link. While it shares the same type parts as the SI-SIII, allowed by fitting the drop arm in another orientation, there is no way of using PAS like on a Series because the PAS box input needs to be horizontal to connect directly to a drag link (replacing both the box and relay of a Series system), and so there's no way of connecting that to a vertical column.

I'd have worries about the strain on the steering box and relay with a column mounted electrical assister. While fitting the Defender or P38 systems gets around this on standard Series LRs, the 101 still needs the steering relay. I've heard of pattern relays shearing with manual steering, so I'd be nervous of having PAS even with a genuine relay. I think I'd go down the hydraulic ram route and live with the original gearing and relative sloppiness the original system with a ram has compared to the LR PAS systems (the relay is still going to give some of that even with a P38 unit driving it).

Keep the existing pinion shims and the collapsible spacer - they are set to the diff casing, not the pinion.

Set the pedal height as suggested, but still check that the pushrod to the piston has a little free play. 1.5mm might be a little much, but there needs to be a little to ensure the mc piston retracts fully to allow full depressurisation and reservoir flow back.

I have not noticed play on the pump spindles on my 200 or two 300 pumps, but I can't say for certain that it isn't there. I can tell you that the pumps aren't "bullet proof" - run them for a while on bad fuel, either contaminated diesel or unheated or dirty vegoil, and they soon break down. That's nether unexpected or unreasonable. My current 300 pump was attached to a 110Wolf engine which was cast from the MoD because it wouldn't run. The pump was a new replacement but the engine still wouldn't fire so they got rid of it. I got the pump for my engine, since the pump was in brand new condition (I didn't know its full history), and though it squirted fuel through the injectors, the engine didn't cough or splutter once, let alone run. It had to be reset for its internal timing because the front sprocket had been put on in the wrong position. Since getting it back, I have also found that the turbo pressure is not moving the boost section inside the pump - it's seized solid. Bosch must have had one of their dozy apprentices on the assembly line that day and another on the QC testing line.

I think it could just be that. It costs nothing more than a couple of minutes to try it before buying new hydraulic parts.

I suspect the master cylinder adjustment is off, preventing the fluid from returning the the reservoir when the pedal is released. As the engine warms up and heat is transferred to the hydraulic fluid via the slave cylinder, the fluid may be expanding enough to partially apply the release mechanism and allow the clutch to slip.

Sorry to necro-post, but do the 48-spine columns have tapered splines like Series vehicles, ie do Seris wheels fit the thicker Defender columns and vice versa? Looking into it for a Series PAS conversion...

My viscous cooled 300 tdi warms up in half the time of my electric cooled 200. The electric fan was incorrectly assembled and boxed, so it was labelled as a puller when in fact it was a pusher, leading to an overheat the first time wit was needed. It was rectified and worse adequately, but is asthmatic compared tot he viscous unit. The stats regarding fuel consumption and power sapping of the viscous fans are utter lies - they are far more efficient than electric fans can ever hope to be. Do yourself a favour and never fit an electric fan where an engine driven fan can be used. Manufacturers only install electric fans on transverse engines because they know they're excrement.

You don't need to attach the antenna directly to the ground plane as long as the plane is earthed, so you can fit it inside the rag top without any cutting.

Have you reported that to ebay?

Brilliant!

The photo may be misleading me, but it looks like you have a crack from seven o'clock running down and a little to the left, and quite possibly extending up nearly vertically from the 9 o'clock position of the bearing seat. That would explain the loose bearing race and the damage to the shims. I suspect the casing is now scrap. I doubt you can save anything other than the half shafts, hubs and brake parts. Sorry.

Chock the wheels and remove the prop shafts for UJ inspection and replacement or servicing - 50 mph is about the speed that prop shafts hit harmonic frequencies with 3.54 diffs.

Smell the engine oil - it'll probably have a hint of diesel. I doubt you have significant water content in the oil as you'd have mayonaise on the filler cap.

I haven't tried it myself, but I've only heard good things about the POR15 kit.

If it's just a porous seam, why not use the POR15 tank sealing kit from a vendor like Frosts?

Isn't the correct procedure for D3 clutch replacement to remove the entire body shell first? I'm pretty sure that was the original procedure.

You might have a system where a timer relay controls two power relays, so the timer uses little current. I'd suspect that one more than the two black ones - I think the regular relays tend to fail open or closed, not changing of their own accord.

Having the front Salisbury puts the job into perspective - otherwise you'd be having to hit the hog at 60 mph in reverse to justify the effort! Nice work, regardless.

I don't know if it's a year issue, but mi 109 brakes' cylinders were all horizontal. I'm trying to think of how any of the parts could be fitted to get mounting angles like yours but none come to mind.

That makes sense. Thanks, Koos.

If they stopped making very complex, blingy light packs, then they wouldn't be stolen - it was never a problem on Defenders, Discoverys up to the 2004 facelift or RRC and P38. But even with modern clusters, it doesn't have to be impossible to fit bulbs without tools if the designers give the slightest thought to maintenance. The same can be said of other regular service parts like filters, belts, clutch and brake discs and so on. Look at the bad design of RRC/Defender hubs and discs, or how disastrous the D3 and 4 clutches and belts are - by the time they're 10 years old, people will scrap them rather than renew a clutch.

Well, it's a fairly large black relay on mine, and I expect that's consistent with older vehicles, so look for a relay double the height of a standard cube relay. I suspect it'll be in the foot wells for that very reason.

It'll be on the right hand inner wheel arch, mounted on the leg of the secondary fuse box.