6cyltdi

Good to here.... Mines been up to scratch for my requirements too although my postage just over quadrupled because I am in an IV postcode area....!!! Same with every bloody thing up here though.... MM 4x4 postage free to everyone else £25 for me... and next day doesn't exist....!!! Gurn over... Glad your happy with your purchase....

Bulkhead removal bar defiantly gives more space or spacers under the seat....

nope, just a stainless can and even that looks thin carp.... My friend makes stainless systems and offers them with a lifetime guarantee (as long as you have the car, as long as he lives or as long as you live) lol

If you actually read the last post all your questions are answered there.....!!! All there for you VVvvvVV just reworked some of the suspension geometry on the Tonka, moved the damper mounts and replaced the Revolver shackles with fabbed shackles about 1" shorter than 1 ton. This has improved stability in off camber situations and, with front and rear lockers, I don't need super long articulation. You won't be able to get 36" tyres on your rig (half shaft issues aside) because of the portal effect, but this is pretty well set up: "The Tonka" - SIII 88" portal axle, parabolic and revolver sprung, V8, leaks and squeaks & '99 Disco I, 4.0,

I've got THIS And it only just powers that gun.... You'll also need the AIR LINE for that gun.... It seems to need the compressor at 6-8 bar to operate effectively..... I certainly wouldn't go any smaller than the above compressor.... and it's light enough to throw in the back of your car and a 3000W inverter will power it fine or a generator my 1.9KVA powers it bit it's usually the 3KVA one I have with me.... Hope this is of use, let me know if you need to know any more about it.... The one your looking at would be no use for your requirements though....

Yes it's easy enough.... I got a mate to skim and drill/tap the flywheel, you'll have to cut a little off of the passenger foot well.... Defiantly worth it for the extra power and MPG.. You'll need another exhaust and I found fitting an alternator with in-built regulator simplified wiring a bit... Also stick an intercooler on her

I done a set of used rims i got about four years ago, quick rub down and about 4-5 layers of spray on hammerite... Finnish was brilliant and now four years on they are about the same as any other four year old rims that have been powder coated if not better.... only recent pic i can find....

Three pics Here... You can see that i just cut the dash that was in to suit...

No you can use the same loom and push it through the holes at the other side of the bulkhead once the rubber grommets have been removed....

You will need a different steering box, and depending on how neat you want it a LHD dash, I just modified the dash I had to suit (in a series 3) You'll need a new dials panel... Depending on what year your car is you may need a different swivel... I think everything else should be OK, oh inner wing might possibly need kinked for the steering column..

You'll find a few pics of mine running the rims reversed HERE

Use standard rims instead of modulars, if u crank en tight and re-check regularly they will bevel the rims themselves.. they are also cheaper to damage and will provide more offset.. they won't foul unless they're on a salisbury axle, what car and age...?

up to you i guess.... I used to run standard lr rims back to front to gain alot of offset on my 90... don't think it's legal but if you check them every day or two i can't see a problem....

Rockwells from a renault trm 2000 are easy enough to pick up here.... rear has a locker.... I'm fitting simca's at present to my series and they should have no problem with that tyre size.. There are good spares availability for either axle and they won't break the bank..... Or toy 80 series axles??? Loads of possibilities depends on what you want/ will be using it for and what you can afford

Right, I have the 97' 3.9 disco too, I also had trouble with exhaust and just modified the one I got.... All the service items I have needed for it inc drive belt have been for the 4.0 model....? see if this corresponds to your car too... I would change the fuel filter, clean the pump and blow back your fuel lines... Fill the tank with fuel and hopefully problem solved... Had a similar problem with my 3.9 hybrid, dyeing out under load twas the fuel... ended up binning the tank ( a mingin home made one changed filter and cleaned lines.... problem solved.. Hope this helps, cheers Daniel

You can pick up a 24V alternator for pennies however, if you phone conversion & precision engineering and ask for him to fax you a copy of a 24V into 12V system wiring diagram I'm sure he will forward that to you with no problems.. I had him send me this when i wanted to have a 24V start on a 12V system... Nissan 6cyl into landrover conversion... Hope this is of use....? Daniel

Shouldn't be a problem i ran 3 235/85's and a 7.50 120 miles till i got home with no problems..

Only reason it's costing as much as £3.50 a gallon is that used chip fat oil is getting harder to source with every Tom, Dick and Harry going to restraunts hotels and chippys and offering money to take away their used oil and therefore suppliers are having to pay for it.....!!! When it was costing nothing to get it was cheaper... Apparently it costs about 9p per litre to manufacture...!!

Well up here (Nr Inverness) BIO hasn't gone above £3.50 per gallon and it's sold by the gallon....

I thought the early 110's especially V8 had an all in on transfer box and gear box.....?? 4 speed box....?

So how does the centering socket yoke thingy work....??? I take it one side is like a normal prop uj? The other uj pivots on one coupling and not two or????? How is it fixed and hold the uj.... Thanks again....

Is there any reason why I can't make my own double cardon prop shafts.... If I weld two prop ends back to back after grinding down the centre till its flush, make a nice deep groove and fill it with weld at a good heat, then shorten a prop I have here is there any reason it will/would be dramaticly out of balance or fail on me....??? Also will it be OK to run the front prop with double cardon at diff end...? Any suggestions as how best to do it and/or problems I my incur?? Any advise at all... Thanks everyone... Daniel

As above 32 spline, you don't get 10 spline its either 24 or 32, 91' on should all be 32 spline...

http://www.idavette.net/tech/ratioc.htm http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html Calculators...... ?

Yep here are 245/75 16's on mine, cannot go any bigger than this though... That's standard at max articulation with anti roll-bar removed...