steve_d

The hole will not need drilling as the Helicoil tap is only one size up. Get a block of ali or steel and drill a hole in it that is just bigger than the Helicoil tap. Hold this against the face of the head and use it as a guide to keep the tap square to the face. Steve

The Haynes is right there are both coolant and fuel temperature sensors on your engine. MS requires coolant temp and inlet air temperature sensors so the fuel sensor is left disconnected. You can use the already fitted coolant sensor but will have to find and fit the air temp somewhere in the ducting you will use to connect the air filter to the throttle body once you have binned the air flow meter (MAF). Check the thread as the most common sensor is shown in there with part number. I used a Ford one which I found at the breakers. It is convenient as it came in a nice plastic housing that fits as an inline joiner in my ducting. Steve

Explain what you mean by 'stud won't tighten fully'. Are you using studs or bolts? Does the stud/bolt just keep turning as in the thread is stripped in the head? Your talk of chemical metal implies the thread is stripped. Chemical metal will not fix this. Sounds like the head needs to be drilled and tapped oversize and a Helicoil fitted. Steve

If the relays are all plugged in then it doesn't matter too much where they live apart from identifying them in the future. If they all got wet then I would work my way through them unplugging, cleaning and applying Vasaline so you at least know you are not suffering corrosion and bad contact issues. Reference your un-connected socket. It is not uncommon to have some not used as the loom is designed for all the add on options some of which may not have been used on your car. I found sockets on my RRC that do not appear on any version of circuit diagram I have ever found for the year. Sorry, can't help with finding the diagnostic socket. Steve

Yes you can but I believe Mr FF runs a 4.6 himself so all the maps you could want are there for the asking. Steve

Disconnecting it turns it off but does nothing if it is leaking and over fueling the engine. Try putting a clamp on the fuel pipe and see if that makes a difference. Steve

If it were me starting afresh with that build I would be looking to put in a Chevy engine. They make way more power and torque for less money. A good 350ci small block will be producing about 350hp compared to about 200 for the 4.6. If space is not a problem then a big block will treble the power of the 4.6. Talk to Kennedy engineering in the states for an adaptor plate. Steve

The only water supply to the carb would be the auto choke. If fitted, this would warm up as the engine warmed and in the process heat a bi-metal spring which slowly takes the choke off as the engine warms. It does not perform any sort of carb warming or cooling. If you are running without a filter then when the engine stops or starts to falter look inside the carb throat (with a torch if required) and look for ice forming inside. If this is happening then the answer is to fit an air filter system which draws its incoming air from immediately above the exhaust manifold. The warm air should then prevent carb icing. Steve

Thought I would post a heads-up on the small confusion I had when copying FFs circuit diagram and the picture of the mounted coil packs. The circuit is fine as it does not attempt to tell you which bank of the coil packs you are going to use and much depends on where you mount them. EDIS fires the coil packs A-B-C-D-A-B-C-D for our correct firing order. On the EDIS unit the pins driving the coils are 8 = A 9 = B 11 = C 12 = D If you use the now common mounting arrangement seen below you need to wire as follows: EDIS..Coil....Coil .........Pack...Pin 8.........A.......3 9.........B.......1 11.......C.......3 12.......D.......1 With it wired wrong it does not want to start, backfires impressively and the timing appears to be 90 degrees out. Steve

From the markings on a 10002 I doubt there is anything bigger. The PRC8878 looks to be marked in a similar way so I doubt it will offer more than you have. 10002 should be good for 6 x 21w so should be OK for the job. Have you tried just replacing it? It may just be tired in it's old age. Steve

Ninth injector is cold start enrichment. Steve

Very true. I don't think the OP has actually looked at the price of taps. In for a very nasty shock. Steve

If all you want to do is clean the thread then take the old TRE and cut down the middle of the thread with a hacksaw. Then with an angle grinder grind back the trailing edge of the thread so that you have turned your TRE into a tap. This works fine as long as you don't come back and say the TRE is FUBAR with hardly any discernible thread. The tap you need to buy will be lots of pounds in which case it may still be cheaper to make a brand new TRE into a tap and pop it in your toolbox for next time. Steve

Last pulley I took of was with the engine on a stand in the garage. Fitted the puller with all its legs trying to flop all over the place. Reached behind me for the spanner, lost my balance, grabbed puller to regain balance, flat on back with puller and pulley in lap. Answer to your question....not as tight as I thought. Steve

Just had a Google for Speedglas as I also want a helmet. Found me lots on ebay. Found me Speedglas (3M) where I looked at all the specs. Their supplier list found me some hugely expensive trade outlets and Rapid Welding Supplies http://www.rapidwelding.com/dynamic/Catego...mp;o=0&zl=2 The prices seem very good unless someone has found better. Plus just down the road from me. 9002D £99 9002V £180 9100V £179 9100X £195 9100XX £219 Steve

How about one of these to make your enclosure on the end of the extension. http://essentialsupplies.co.uk/acatalog/enclosures.html http://essentialsupplies.co.uk/acatalog/ENC3.jpg Steve

Didn't you mean 151MPH is more than enough for practical use. Steve

If the engine has no thermostat or it is jammed open then the cooling system would perhaps be too efficient. Steve

And clean up outside the door. Ache like hell this morning. Steve

Ok, so if you were to do the conversion you would find the same as I did (Dakar) that the sills are completely rotten. Dakars solution is to cut away the sill completely so you are just left with a sheet floor (repaired where required). They then have a welded frame that forms both the sill and a step which fits under the sheet floor and mounts onto the existing chassis outriggers so that you have not modified the chassis in this area. Steve

Thanks guys. I have adjusted it in the past but was not sure if I was doing the right thing so took the opportunity to ask. Steve

Is there a simple method of setting the kickdown cable or does it require test equipment. 1987 RRC ZF Four speed. I now have 33" wheels and despite the car being lighter it seems to want to kick down at only about 70% throttle. Any thoughts Many thanks Steve

Well, I'm thinking of all the bits you are going to need to source to rebuild the front of the engine because, as you have said, the whole front housing is different. Not sure if you will also have issues mating the 3.5 inlet manifold and heater pipes with the later water pump. Steve

So are the side steps not part of the kit as they have been welded to the chassis? Steve

The suggestion is disabling the injection and cranking the engine to strobe the timing. Am I right in thinking that all is OK if the engine is running at tickover and both MegaTune and the strobe say the same thing. Steve