steve_d

I've been retired since Christmas and am gradually getting used to staying in bed longer in the morning. Still haven't made it past 7.30 yet. Steve

So if I fix the timing as above will I see TDC with the light or the 10 degree built into EDIS. I assume when I have it running then the timing light should match what is showing on the gauge in Megatune. Had a troll through the thread but cannot find a spark gap recommendation. I assume with the Ford coil packs I can run something like 40 or 45 thou. Other threads ahve mentioned the importance of the plug type on the RV8 but is that still true with EDIS or is it not as important. Steve

Have tried to start the Dakar with MS. It is firing or should that be backfiring and it stutters as if the timing is way advanced. Is there any way to test the timing without running the engine? Steve Edit....just found I've wired my coil packs back to front so that is why it won't run but the question is still valid.

Apart from eat the hobnobs. Steve

Your question does, to a small degree, indicate you are not overly familiar with winches and winching technique. Can I recommend spending a few hours on this site http://www.dborc.co.uk/goodwinch/ and follow the 'Learn with David' link. I don't claim to be an expert but found the info very informative and there is a section explaining how to work out the required line pull for different slopes and situations. No doubt someone else will be along to tell us both where to look for more/better advice. Steve

I can build a vehicle from scratch (and have it SVA tested) and include a tow bar so there must be some sort of getout clause. I seem to remember something about if the car was designed with towbar mounting points then they must all be used by any bar fitted. The reasoning is that monocoque design cars are generally thin material and the loads have to be dissipated through the structure. Steve

Now we know the size of the strips you are doing. They are not wide enough to benefit from mesh. They will not need vibrating. The width means you can reach across and float if required or just brush late on in the cure. Unless the other strips have a damp proof membrane I would not bother with your new strips. And finally, I retired at Christmas so Mondays are just one of the days in a week (having trouble with this bit as I keep loosing track of what day it is)......anyway the offer still stands. Steve

From what I have seen of the IVA manual there is not a lot of difference in the requirement but a huge difference in the way it is defined. This will make it much easier for both sides as many areas that seemed open to interpretation in SVA have been spelled out in IVA. I have not made it bedtime reading but have been following threads on the subject in Kitcar forums. They have obviously been following it closely and there have been no fireworks or gnashing of teeth so I assume they have not found any nasties. There was a short period when the proposal outlawed exposed exhaust pipes and boxes. This was a major issue for Cobra and seven replica builders but this seems to have been removed now. Steve

Unless you are making the slab thicker than 6" I don't see a need for the poker. Mesh may not be a necessity but would be worth doing considering it will not cost too much. What is the narrowest dimension of the slab as this is the length your tamp bar will need to be. If it is long then you may need to make one looking a little like a shallow roof truss otherwise it may sag in the middle. If one edge is against a wall then you will need to nail a batten along it at your final floor level to run the tamper on. I would say at least an inch thick. You will need a lot of hands on this. Give me a shout if you want help I'm not that far away. What is the final use? If you want a really smooth finish then you may want to hire a power float (bit like an upside-down helicopter) or one of those things like a giant trowel with a long handle. Lastly find someone who knows what they are doing as getting it right first time is way easier than remedial action. Steve

Starting and running will not be a problem as long as you correct the level before the 'box gets hot (overfill) or before you drive it (underfill). Steve

The required amount most likely includes the torque converter. So either yours is already full or.. You have not yet run the engine so the fluid has not been pumped in to fill the TC up. Steve

HFH Does that year of 3.9 have the over-run cut off relay as that may be the box the OP is referring too? Sounds to me like a gummed up stepper idle valve. Steve

Would probably take longer to degrease it than drill the hole and glue a magnet in. Steve

If engine oil is going to do a better job than ATF then why didn't the designer choose it in the first place. Steve

Do you intend to do all the repairs? If they were bad he would have failed it so on that basis they do not need doing yet. I would get your garage to check them on the next service. If you are going to do your own servicing then you can inspect them yourself and make a decision at each service. If you are not familiar with these things then I would get the drag link looked at as that is the one item that will cause real grief if it fails. Steve

http://siliconhoses.com/ Steve

I've used these superseal connectors which are very nicely sealed. http://www.thewiringproject.co.uk/asps/uploads/big/502-1.jpg I get mine from Polevolt. Steve

The latches jumped open on my trailer. 1. The whole load I was taking to the dump scattered across the road. 2. The tailgate is removable by sliding it sideways when open...so it also went across the road and destroyed all the lights. Steve

If you are running EDIS and the original ECU just to prove the EDIS then don't forget the ECU is expecting a signal pulse to say the engine is turning over before it will fire the injectors. I believe it gets that from the coil so you must leave that connected even if the king lead is out. Steve

EPC has ESR2834 which runs from LA074242 on. Bang that into Google and see what you find as it often shows which vehicle its for. Steve

The ones I took of my RRC had pipes about 1/4" diameter and a serious pump. The pipes were all secured with jubilee clips. I think it would just blow the pipes off a normal washer system. From memory the jets that go with it had about 1mm holes. Steve

And then get a couple of those plastic clips like you have on a dog lead. Hook them on the bottom of the antiluce to stop them coming undone when your trailer goes over bumps. Ask me why I know this is important. Steve

If I assume they will be in the garden then start by screwing in two of those screw eyes used for tethering dogs and pass a chain through them. Place some 4x2 blocks on the ground and stack the tyres on them. Pass the chain up through the stack and padlock. Cover the whole stack with black polythene used as damp proof membrane and wrap it up nicely. Get told by her indoors that that monstrosity has to go. Start a new plan. Steve

You can read it direct from the link line. www.onlinesales4less.com I Googled army surplus cargo net. This was one of many it found. Steve

something like this could be a start point. Google be your friend. http://www.onlinesales4less.com/cargonet10x4YEL.jpg Steve