steve_d

They move together. On mine there is a broad arm dropping down from the throttle shaft with two holes side by side at the end of it. The throttle cable attaches from one side and the kickdown from the other. The image posted earlier shows both cables coming from the same side with the throttle cable attached to the arm above the shaft and the kickdown below the shaft. If you are making up a new linkage then it would be easier to make it like mine as all you have to do is attach it on the other side from your throttle. Both cables have clevises at the end. If you make two plates (like the side plates of a bike chain) you could link the clevises together. You then only need a bracket for the cable adjuster. Steve

If possible tap one size up and use larger bolts. Or Use Keenserts which are a little like helicoils but are easier to fit and require no special tools. But whatever you use make sure you fit the insert and the bolts using Duralac which will prevent corrosion in the future. Steve

That was worth doing. Dim. 'A' should be 42mm and was 37 on mine. So to compensate I have set 'B' to 6mm. Will find out later if it made a difference. Steve

Thanks Colin I can check mine out now as I'm sure it's still not right but it is difficult to tell as I'm running larger tyres than before which has screwed the ratios. Steve

http://www.thinkauto.com/ http://www.bgcmotorsport.co.uk/ Are the places I have used for braided brake, clutch and oil pipe/fittings. Steve

My understanding is that the cable is not just giving the kickdown point but is continually changing the valving of the 'box based on throttle position. Right or wrong I have always been told driving without the cable will damage the 'box. Steve

It's a safety feature and there for a very good reason. Fix the tickover. Steve

I wave to anything LR from my Dakar but seldom get a return...they just don't understand. Serves me right for being different. Steve

Slightly O/T As a lad I brought home from the breakers the rear half of a Minivan on the roofrack of my Triumph 2000. The van later became a very successful trailer. Steve

The fans on my 306 are variable speed so that will be what all the wiring is about. Never actually looked but I think it starts as one fan low speed and works up to both at high speed. With a little work it may be possible to transplant the whole functionality. Steve

For extra security its probably possible to add a PIN code using the buttons before it will let you move it out of park. Steve

I'll have a go then. If it is happening on both fuels then it could be an air leak causing both fuels to go lean. have a good inspect of all the hoses etc related to the plenum, breather from rocker cover, stepper motor hoses. Or It could be ignition related. The prime suspect here would be the ignition amplifier or the coil. Is there a time element to this as in it only shows after the engine has really warmed up. Steve

Sounds like you need to run a smaller compressor and pipework to cool the main pumps. Steve

By the way, the earlier comment about concussion and avoiding sport etc also applies with respect to the young lady. Steve

Get to the back of the queue...anyone want my viscous fan for free. Steve

Try post 3 in this thread. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...amp;mode=linear Found it using Google Steve

My 3.5 had electric fans and aircon fans. The cooling fans produce way more blow than the AC ones so I agree with FF that you should find some at the breakers. Am I right thinking another thread advocated Mondeo fans complete with the fan housing fits nicely? Another benefit of electric is you can turn them off if wading and not throw water all over the engine. If you do fit a switch to turn them off wire a buzzer into the other side of the switch then if you forget to turn them back on again the buzzer will go off when the thermostat wants the fans on. Steve

The two pin sensor does not earth through the body so will need an earth. If you run Megatune connected to MS you should be able to see the coolant temp either by changing one of the gauges or running 'Realtime display' or calling up any of the options in 'Other Tuning. Steve

ThreeSheds: Getting More like Wesley every day! (Wesley Pegden from Last of the Summer Wine) Steve

I would say there are plenty of bits to reuse. Stick them all on a nice new Galv chassis......job done. Don't think they will be repairing the other one. Steve

Rather than worry about what it is called I would ring http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/ (Ashtrans on here) and tell him what has happened and he will be able to supply all you need to fix it and advice along the way. Steve

It is controlled by the electronic module in the back of the instrument binnacle. Steve

The feed wire you used to zap the ECU with, does it still have 12V on it? I would not think zapping the case would cause a problem but may have blown a fuse in that line. Steve

Input shaft bush or spigot bearing fits into the end of the crank. It supports the outer end of the gearbox input shaft. Steve

There is a clearance hole in the flywheel aligned with each of those bolt heads. Rotate the crank to bring one of the holes below the sump joint line. Use a normal socket (17mm I think) and ratchet through the hole and start to undo the bolt. The crank will turn until the side of the socket comes up against the sump rim. It can't then turn any further so you can undo the bolt. Steve