steve_d

Well to start with you need to give us some background info such as Engine type and size What have you changed since it last ran Etc. If there is pressure in the plenum then it must have been a backfire indicating wrong timing of either ignition or valves. If it blew the pipe off then it may well have mullered the AFM particularly if it is a flapper. Steve

Based on my 87 RRC 3.5 V8. Yes the flex pipe screws onto the fuel rail but the other end is crimped to the steel pipe running back to the tank so I suspect they come as one piece. At the other end of that pipe (in the rear wheel arch) is the fuel filter and guess what.....All the pipes are secured with jubilee clips. So to answer your query. Provided the fuel hose is in good condition and the clips fitted correctly there should be no problems. If you are fitting the hose to a pipe with no swage or serations I would suggest pushing the hose on even further and using two clips. Steve

Sounds pretty conclusive, even used my own words 'fully dressed' Thanks all. The hoist I was looking at will do that weight at full stretch. Getting expensive this engine swap, my compressor die today as well. Steve

As per title. How much does a fully dressed 3.9 V8 weigh? Need to buy an engine hoist with plenty of height but that limits its lifting capacity. Capacity costs money so don't want to buy bigger than I need too. Thanks Steve

Here is a picture of a 3.9 serp which should be about the same I think. Ignore the Ford coil packs top left, I'm in the process of Megasquirting it. Steve

Apparently not. It is fixed and does not vary with the speed limit. What they do change is the 'all red' time. This is the period from one direction going red and the other coming of of red. Steve

Reading the link it all revolves around shortening the time for amber. So all you need to do is time the lights change rather than challenge the software. So who knows what the UK time sequence is? Steve ETA Found it on another forum Amber alone for traffic stopping = 3 seconds Red and amber for traffic starting = 2 seconds

Get in there with a wire brush and clean the area. Degrease. Slap on a 10mm thick poultice of body filler. Last one I did was still sealed when the car went for scrap 6 years later. Steve

If the RR was not ABS (don't know when it changed) then the front calipers would have been dual circuit. How have you achieved dual circuit with a 90 master cylinder? Again I don't know the 90 set-up. A basic description based on what I know for the 1987 is the rear are tee'd on the top of the rear axle. They are supplied from the primary circuit via a brake pressure compensating valve (which will be all wrong for your hybrid and needs replacing with an adjustable one). The primary circuit is supplied from the rear of the master and branches to both front calipers and to the pressure compensating valve. The secondary circuit comes from the front of the master and splits for both the front calipers. On the front caliper the single bleed nipple at the top is primary and the two nipples lower down and out to the sides are the secondary. what is not clear is which pipe is which as they both go into the caliper side by side. Steve ETA Looks like the primary comes down as the upper flexy in the bracket on top of the caliper then goes to the outermost inlet.

Perhaps you need to provide us more info on what the bits are and how they have been modified. If the chassis is standard you may get away with the original plate. If it has been modified such as cutting off the overhang but could be something as simple as moving an engine or body mount outrigger, then you will need a new chassis number (from DVLA) and will then get an age related plate if you can demonstrate that a number of items came from the one donor. An age related can be changed later for a cherished plate. If most of the bits come from different places then a Q will be issued. Steve

Whilst I agree the rearward facing versions look odd I think they are best for the job. Most of the others are asking to get ripped of in the trees and the ones laying across the screen are just waiting for the next wave to come sloshing up the windscreen. Steve

Agreed, left hand drills. Extractors have a habit of breaking then you are really stuffed. Steve

Driver and passenger footwells including their sides. Bottom of B posts Rear seatbelt mounts on the inner wheel arches. Steve

Undo the nut holding the cable clamp, remove clamp and cable. Grip shaft with pliers and pull. Shaft and gear wheel will come out along with the plastic housing. Pop a new gear in the housing and push it back in. replace cable and clamp. Make sure you get the right gear wheel as they come as a range of different numbers of teeth. The gears are each different colour plastic to denote the number of teeth. Steve

If that 16-18 is measured across an otherwise good condition battery then yes you have a duff one. Steve

I had to replace my RRC tank as it was leaking. If you disturb your tank I would almost guarantee it will start to leak. The problem is the support strap that runs under it traps moisture and promotes rust. All the time it is pulled up tight it will stay rusted together but when you undo it all the strap will try to part company and may start a leak. If it were me I would take the dimensions you have been given and drill a hole in each corner of your proposed hatch. You can then gauge the clearance below with a drill bit or piece of wire. If deep enough use a jigsaw and cut 40mm along both edges from the left rear corner hole. Bend up the cut corner so you can get a small mirror in and check that continuing to cut will nor take you through a pipe or the wiring. The left rear is the best place to start as the fuel pipes run forward, the breather runs to the offside and wiring to nearside. The battery will have been disconnected...... Steve

There will be rust anywhere but if it is only surface rust you are OK. If the tester can poke a hole in the chassis it will fail. If he can poke a hole in the body within 300mm of a body mounting point, seat mount, seatbelt mount etc it will fail. Steve

There is no relay it is done from the column switch. The column switch function is to switch the supply from the lighting switch between high or low. There is also the headlight flash function but this is from fuse 11 and is a continuous supply so if that were at fault then the headlights would be on all the time. I would say the switch has to be at fault but you say you have already changed that. Is the fault still there with the column switch unplugged but left almost where it belongs? (Following your short idea) Steve

Have you tried disconnecting the fuel rail and piping the supply pipe to a fuel can to see if you have any flow? If you have flow you could then test the pressure. Have you also replaced/bypassed the fuel filter? Steve

Mike If you fill in your profile then someone local may be able to offer you an engine or point you at a good local source. Steve

The cam in the TVR engine may not be ideal in your application. Other than that it should fit. The car minus working engine will not be worth anything. Whoever takes it away will have to tow or trailer it at some expense. Another LR engine should be readily available and relatively cheap. Steve

Firefox also red underlines the word that needs correcting but bizarrely also highlights 'Firefox'. Unfortunately it is not a very good spell checker and fails to recognise some of my more wayward attempts at the English language. The spell checker in the Google toolbar is much better. Steve

Replaces the dizzy and coil. Components....Megajolt kit or built (see For Sale section), 2 Ford escort coil packs and brackets from a breakers + the HT lead connectors at the coil + the electrical connectors, Escort VR sensor (breakers), A Ford transit Trigger wheel (1078767 £16.58), An Edis8 module (from FridgeFreezer or ebay). Benefits are monster sparks and mappable ignition eliminating the vagarities of the worn dizzy. Ability to drive under water although there are other considerations. Steve

If you are confident that no driving situation will leave the tank outlet drawing air or the same for an internal pump then no you don't need a pot. I see no reason why a 3.5 pump will not cope. Others further back have mentioned a number of external pumps you could pick up from the breakers. You could do your install and have two spares for the price of a new pump. An external would be easier to carry as a spare than an internal which is a bit bulky and fragile. An external will be a far simpler first install and much quicker to swap out when required. Steve

Can't say much for the relay copies as I have not had them long. Both winches are switched from inside using the now redundant RRC window switches. They also both have hand held plug-in cables. The rear (cheapy 12000) has a radio remote which works out to about 3x the length of the winch rope. Steve