steve_d

I believe the oil in WD-40 is lanolin and very light so I would not expect it to work. will someone like this on ebay not ship it to NI. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/K-N-Air-Filter-Oil-S...%3A2|240%3A1318 Steve

It is designed that way. Yes it will wear but will last as long as the clutch itself so will get replaced before the fingers are worn too far. Steve

Have posted on the MS2Extra forum but seem to have joined a rather large number of posters who don't get answered. I have read and reread the instructions many times and believe I am doing it right including setting the boot jumper but just end up with the whole thing locked up. Steve

Going to have to give up on Extra. Have tried another four times to load it without success. Every time I try I end up with all communication to the processor locked and can only free it by taking the processor out of MS and running Hyperterm. Pity as I rather liked the idea of the idle control. Steve

I've been with the AA all my motoring life and always had good service from them. Started with my Triumph 2000 throwing a conrod on the M4. Opened the bonnet with all my mates standing around and said I'll give it a poke on the starter and see what it sounds like' At the resultant clatter I said I think it's f****d. A voice behind me said I think your right...want to join. 2000 was then loaded onto the trailer behind nice AA mans Landrover. Best incident was waiting for the recovery wagon after breaking a timing chain. Driver swung round the corner and a big grin came across his face. As he got down from the cab he apologised profusely for laughing out loud at my predicament. Then said "See it from my point of view, it's my first day on relay and when they said I've to pick up a bright yellow bubble car I thought they were pulling my plonker". Steve

Why do you need to get at the gearbox breather banjo? Just cut the 'hockey stick' bend off the ends of the pipes where they come up into the engine bay and extend them. Steve

If you have found a supplier have you also got a part number. You can then Google the number....have had good results with some really random things. Steve

If the bottom line is the possible uneven ground to camp on then just stow some boards in the underside of the roofrack to slide out and lay on the uneven ground. Steve

Try in the ashtray. Or http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Range-Rover-...s__W0QQ_armrsZ1 Martin Toole in Southampton Steve

We did this not two days ago. http://www.thinkauto.com/ Steve

In case you need convincing...I agree, fail. Brakes are one place you don't want to scrimp on. I rarely replace seals at cylinder/caliper and never a master cylinder I replace with a new unit. Steve

Or the discs could have uneven wear or rust patches. If it is not driven fast or braked hard or left standing for long periods it can develop rust patches which go on to become uneven wear. Inspect the discs for both this uneven wear and to see if they are warped. Steve

The last comment 'nasty sharp bits' is what I'm referring to. The construction and use regulations apply (and are what SVA are checking compliance against) and require that there be no sharp edges so that you don't do any more harm to a pedestrian than would otherwise be the case. Steve

You don't need a screen, goggles etc. but it is not going to be comfortable and you stand a good chance of being taken out by a pebble or blackbird. The kitcar guys have taken to using the rather fancy tinted or mirrored safety glasses which are surprisingly cheap from places like Screwfix. You don't have to have a bumper but anything left sticking out the front should have a radius of 2.5mm. Steve

This is a timely post resurrection. Drove home Friday and developed a sharp, resonant, pinging/grating noise from the drive train. At first I thought it would be a UJ as the noise was not unlike tapping the propshaft with a spanner. Inspected it this morning and there is no movement in any of the UJs. Short story is that having convinced myself it was forward of the transfer box and suspecting the diff I disconnected the propshaft. After failing to reproduce the noise in the diff I tried turning the propshaft and then noticed that one of the axis of the front UJ was seized solid. I can't even move it in the vice. Great, problem found so fit the spare prop.........B****r, that one is also seized. Better go find a box of UJs. So word of warning........ twisting, pulling and pushing does not a FUBARed UJ find. Steve

Have you tried shimming behind the catch on the door frame. Helped on mine. Steve

Pillars...posts same thing. 'A' post is the one in front of the front doors 'B' is between front and rear doors 'C' is behind rear doors Steve

Rather than repairing the cills have a look for threads on DIY rock sliders. Many have cut out the whole cill (inner and outer) and replaced it with a nice big steel box section which serves the purpose of curing the rust and also makes for a very strong underside. Once this is in place it will make repairing the posts much easier. Steve

Below the belt....but well aimed. Steve

I don't know this setup but from the comment earlier about wheelboxes then have a go at this. Is there a tin lid affair on the top of the wiper assembly? If so then you can take it off and release the drive cable from the gearbox. With the wipers pulled back from the glass can you push and pull the drive cable and make the wipers turn. If you can then that part of the mechanism is good. If it is very stiff then that may be your problem and is not easy to get at. Take the wiper mechanism off and take it to the bench to strip down. It probably needs a good clean and fresh grease but you should also check and clean the commutator and brushes. Steve

I would use the composite one and also use silicon sealant around the water passages. However, this may not be your leak. On the 3.5 the heater pipes are rubber at the front end going into steel along under the inlet then rubber again to the bulkhead. The rubber could be perished or split and the steel pipes may have rusted out. Run your fingers along the back edge of the cylinder head to block joint and see if the head gasket has been extruded out of the joint (ask me how I know). Check the pipes running to the heat chamber under the throttle body. If they are leaking the water runs along the top of the rocker cover and down the back of the engine. For all of these it may be worth pressurising the system so you can go hunting. I had a thought the other day when people were talking about the plastic filler plug on the top of the rad and replacing it with a brass one from B&Q. It would be quite simple to make one with a schrader valve in it to pressure test a system. Steve

Where are you in the world. Have you tried Martin Toole in Southampton. He breaks RR and disco and sell the parts on ebay http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Range-Rover-...s__W0QQ_armrsZ1 Steve

If your first job is going to be the service then get yourself an oil filter wrench. They feature either a strap or a chain and work a bit like a tourniquet, the tighter you turn the tighter it grips. When you fit the new filter put a smear of oil on the rubber seal and only tighten by hand. Steve

Well my cry for help worked. Checked the download again and studied it closely and found right at the beginning failed to communicate. Then again right at the end. All the rest of the 2 pages of file burn and such was obviously not connecting. Checked with hyperterm that the cable was OK. pulled the processor and linked pins 12 & 13 and proved that the coms circuits were all OK. Put the processor back in and all seems to be working. Have to assume the original firmware is still in there. Is there any way to interrogator it? Steve

Hi all Having a bad day, well two days actually. Had the car running OK on MS2 and was progressively tuning it. I found that idle was an issue as it slowed when at a standstill in drive (autobox) and would then stall if the fans kicked in. I could fix this if I accepted near 1000rpm with everything disengaged. The solution would be the idle control in MS2-extra so I loaded that seemingly without issue but now MS is not running and I cannot communicate with it. I have tried several times. This evening I have re-loaded standard MS2 which again seemed to communicate and load without issue but again MS will not run. It has no lights on the MS and just the IGN light on the stim. To load the standard MS2 I used the loader.exe which is supposed to do everything by itself and did not report any problems. I've run out of ideas. Help. Steve