steve_d

The first is the one I have. The second looks a little flimsy but difficult to tell from the pics. The first you can use in hand but better still in a vice. Steve

Rather than shut it down when not required could you just reduce the pressure to a point that just overcomes the issue of trying to move the rams. Steve

Silly Mid Off if I'm not mistaken. Steve

I love this forum. The guy probably has harness burns and bruising. Likely bloodied his nose on the steering wheel. Has a blocked or broken rad. etc. etc. So what do we do?........consider the pros and cons of modified axles. Mind you it does offer a view of modified vehicles that we don't often see. Steve

I have some 3.5's in Hampshire but do not know if they would work. Steve

If you are going to tune this engine and get as many ponies as possible then you will be replacing the cam and its bearings. If you are just putting in a half decent replacement engine then leave well alone i.e. If it aint broke don't fix it. By all means inspect the cam and ensure one or more lobes are not worn but other than that just use the engine. Steve

The existing fitting on the rocker cover probably has a foam filter on it but when stripped down the tube into the cover has a very small hole so that not too much air is drawn in by the crank case ventilation system. If you replace it with a push fitting you may want to make some sort of restriction in the pipe. I see no reason to vent the bell housing. My auto has a wading plug but even when fitted water will still get in unless the engine was fitted to the 'box with sealant and the bell housing cover also fitted with sealant. Steve

I've been using the last one (cheapest) for many years without problems. Does three different sizes of pipe so will do Brake, clutch and fuel lines. If you get clever with it you can form the lip in fuel pipe to stop hose coming of the joint. Steve

I'm confused. If the gauge is already fully installed in the dash then why is the sensor wire not there in the loom? Steve

I have a 3.9 inlet sitting here in Waterlooville doing nothing. Steve

Coilovers will also remove the issues of spring dislocation and the spring is always square on its seat regardless of suspension angle. Steve

Did the engine just plop straight in face to face or did you have to pull it together with the bell housing bolts? Have just had a thought. The torque converter engages with, and drives, the fluid pump. If the TC is empty then it will spin internally and not produce any drive to the pump. No drive to pump = no fluid into the TC = catch22. A grownup will be along shortly to tell me how wrong that is. Steve

All those items apart from the bell housing already have breathers on them so all you need do is find the ends and extend the pipes higher. You will also need to fit a breather to the vent at the back of the nearside rocker cover. You will also need to seal the auto box dipstick. What makes you think you don't need wading plugs? Steve

It's gone very quite. Steve

Yes the oil hole is the lube for the shaft. As it is in a recess it will get oil from anywhere around the diameter so makes no difference where it ends up when you drop it in. Steve

Looking on the back of the bulb. Left is -ve Top is dip beam Right is high beam And no the filaments are not on together unless you operate the flash lever when the lights are on dip. Steve

Can't answer your question directly but I see no reason why not. The above does not help but you possibly need to swap the throttle linkages over as the new one will have the facility for the kick-down cable and may not fit with your existing throttle cable. Steve

It doesn't need to hold pressure so you may get away with just pushing them together. Most of the air pipes on my engine are just a slide fit. I did most of the pipework on my PWM idle valve with 15mm copper pipe and fittings. Steve

No settings yet as I have not made the decision to jump from MS2 to MS2-Extra. Am in the process of reading through all the -Extra manuals to find out what I have to do to convert. Steve ETA I have found a few -Extra features that I want. 1. Idle control. 2. The ability to invert the PWM (mine says 100% when fully closed). 3. Feature to switch to a fixed timing so you can tune the trigger wheel.

Is anyone using closed loop idle control? I am having issues trying to get the idle set. I can find a nice low and steady idle but have to up it to cope with the auto engaged then up it again if the fans cut in. Net result is the idle is near 1000 when out of gear & fans off. Have found that MS1-extra & MS2-extra have closed loop so I can just set the revs I want and the PWM idle valve will open enough to keep the idle up. Steve

Make Model Year Would be a good start or are you talking about an aftermarket gauge you are going to fit to the dash yourself. Steve

Try Martin Toole on 07885399785. He's in Southampton. Steve

Failing that send the ECU to http://www.carelect.demon.co.uk/ who will repair it. Did mine some years ago and got it back fixed by return of post. The web site also lists all the common symptoms. Steve

I would not be happy with moving the bearing lower down as the shaft is taking quite a load. If you strip an engine down and want to prime the oil system you use a tool and an electric drill to drive the oil pump. You need a strong drill and have to hang on lest it gets away from you. I finished mine off with the lid of a pump action toothpaste tube. Bonded it in place with PU sealant. Steve

An explanation would be far more helpful than a put-down. Steve