steve_d

Can you mod the tank to form a 30 degree funnel out of the bottom of the tank with the outlet to a remote pump from the bottom of the funnel. Steve

If you can swap the body (ie 110 onto RRC chassis) without changing the body mount points on the chassis then yes the chassis is unmodified so should retain its identity but that is not to say they won't want it SVA'd to make sure you have done a proper/safe job of it. I got the feeling that this could be dependant on the DVLA inspector. If he/she has an engineering background they may be happy to inspect it themselves. The converse is that the inspector has no engineering knowledge so will revert to SVA. Steve

I was told by DVLA and VOSA that any change to the chassis including simply moving the engine mounts constitutes 'modified' and would require SVA. In my case having chopped off the last 18" of chassis DVLA allocated a new chassis number which I had to stamp into the chassis before SVA. Steve

I've never had one. Didn't see the point if you still had to have the paper one. Would seem the way to avoid the renewal charge is just to send it back. Steve

Not tried to do it but looking at the parts catalogue the switch lives just above the joint between main case and sump so only about half way up the box. It also appears to be held in place with a plate and one fixing. Steve

The tunnel is not removable on my 87 RRC. I think you have to work up the side of the box from below. The switch is both reverse and start inhibit and on mine is RTC4937. If you Google that part number you will see what it looks like. At about £60 you may decide not to bother with reverse lights. Steve

Looks just like the one on my 3.5 RRC Steve

We are now 34 posts into this and no one has reported being charged or warned about ambers being fitted/used. This must indicate that both the owner and the authorities are applying a degree of sense. Steve

Diyautotune claim this one works well http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/usb-ser...atune-p-67.html Steve

This adaptor problem is well known in the Megasquirt community and it does not seem to matter if you go cheap or expensive. This one is claimed to work for MS but the notes do say that you need to be connected to the net before you use it for the first time so that it can go find drivers if the right ones are not on your machine. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/usb-ser...atune-p-67.html Steve

Going back to the temperature sensor calibration. I am using the original 3.9 coolant sensor and a Ford inlet air temp sensor. The reason for the Ford is that I found it at the breakers installed in a short plastic hose joiner which now fits perfectly in the hose between filter and throttle body. My filter and the sensor now live under the front wing so I'm hoping this may reduce the risk of heat soak. I calibrated both together in the freezer, at room temp & in a pan of boiling water. The comparison was against a laboratory thermometer. The resistance readings for each of the temperatures are then used in the Megatune wizard which generates the required files. When I plugged the ECU into the car for the first time both readings were exactly the same and matched the lab thermometer that I had left laying on the top of the engine overnight. Steve PS Thanks guys for putting this thread up. Next challenge is to decide where to post each subsequent question.

The two pins are one blade in line with the amp body and the other across the body this one is also closest to the corner. Inline should have a white wire which is ignition switched +12v also supplying the coil +ve. Crosswise should be white/black going to coil negative. Steve

If it aint broke don't fix it. The colour sounds good so if you have no faults with it then leave it alone. I your post had started "It's done 124k and now it's...... guttless, smokes, reluctant to start etc." then there would be reason to dive in. Steve

Cromwells http://www.cromwell.co.uk/category_page/1110 Steve

The really sad thing is when your current computer could do with a flash over with “Retr0brite”. Steve

Amp (type mounted on dizzy) has (hopefully) two blades, one in line with the amp body and the other across (also nearest the corner). Inline should have a white wire which is ignition switched +12v also supplying the coil +ve. Crosswise should be white/black going to coil negative. The coil negative should also have a resistor coming off of it with the other end connecting to the ECU pin 1 with white/black wire. Steve Edit.......I'm not too far away from you and have most of the bits you may want to borrow to swap out with yours to find issues. Flapper, dizzy, ECU, coil. + a whole dead 3.5 engine recently removed from my Dakar.

You will want to put sealant on all the mating faces anyway if you want to keep wading water out. So, having put silicone over the other faces then and extra large bead along the top in place of this seal will probably suffice. Steve

+&- Moulded into the plastic coil top. Steve

They're not difficult to build but squeezing the V8 in is a bit challenging. Steve

Has a rate been set for this job? (Rate = Hobnob/hour) Steve

Mine had a habit of eating ignition amps so that would be high on my list. Steve ETA You don't show in your profile where you are. Someone nearby may be able to lend bits to swap out.

If the stat has a vent then it should be at the top. Steve

You are talking to someone who would not even know where to find an .ini file let alone modify it. But then there is a first time for everything so I will have a look. Steve

I may have arrived a little late but have just been reading something of interest on another forum. The owner of a modified street car has been contacted by DVLA who now want to inspect his car as they believe it has been 'substantially modified' from its original specification. This is as a result of them seeing it featured in a car magazine. Have a think about your own LR and decide if DVLA would have cause to pull it in for inspection if they were to see it in a magazine. As a minimum you may want the publisher to remove the reg. from photos and only use your forum name in the article. Steve

Have a look at the inlet to your current air filter. I bet it is less than 2 inches. Most who do DIY use B&Q drainpipe and fittings. The only difficult bit then is finishing off the top without it looking a bodge. Steve