steve_d

The speedo drive problem may be the right angle gearbox on the back of the dash. The drive cable comes up from below then has to go 90 degrees into the speedo head. The 'box gets worn but is stupid money to replace (£69). I fixed mine by making a fibre washer the right size to go over the square drive on the drive cable. When the cable is fitted the washer takes out the end float (lash if you have become fully Americanised) in the 'box. Steve

I would have said getting the pulley off would be the biggest problem but if you are taking the pump as well then it should only be uncoupling the pipe unions and a few mounting bolts. Don't forget to bring all of the brackets and bolts with you for £50. Steve

Also, I was thinking we should have the heads skimmed anyway. It's been suggested to me that we need to get the inlet manifold skimmed as well, so that the ports line up (although even a very heavy skim is only about 1mm, and I've read that the composite gaskets are thicker, so it should just about cancel out.) Head skim will be expensive against the value of the engine/car so don’t bother unless the head shows a real burn point. If that was evident then I’m sure you would have pointed to it rather than the generalized photos. Just clean and fit composite. I'd have to say I'd be nervous about buying a 2nd hand engine, as it could have the same problems, although if it's a known good one, it's certainly an option. Depends how much you end up paying. ...and I have some annoying newbie questions... 1. Head bolts - are they reusable, or stretch ones (I think they're stretch and we need new ones, but no sense in throwing money away if we don't have to) Later 3.9 had stretch bolts which can be identified by them having a flanged head (like the head has a washer built in). Earlier bolts with a separate washer are reusable. 2. Tab washers on the exhaust manifold - are they needed? One exhaust manifold had them, the other didn't. Would not bother with them. 3. Is there a limit of how far we can skim before valve-piston clearance is a problem? Don’t skim. 4. What's the opinion on the outer row of head bolts on the Pre '95 MY engines - leave them out, put them in finger tight? Do the composite gaskets have holes for them anyway? Done up lightly as already said 5. The push rods got mixed up - I guess we need to check valve clearances - is that right? They will need doing anyway particularly when you fit the composite gaskets. 6. What's the best method of cleaning the block face? I've never done an ally one before (lots of ally VW heads on iron blocks, but not ally blocks). Just take care using the broadest scraper you can find which will minimise the risk of digging a corner in. Steve

The cable has to be longer so sometime soon you need to bite the bullet and cut the cable to insert your extension. Make the cut a few inches from the ECU so your new bit of cable is inside the car. Once you have cut it you can tell use what it looks like then we can find a suitable replacement and advise how to splice it in. Go find your camera and a pair of side cutters. Steve

My 87 did not have an inspection panel in the boot floor so I don't know when that change came in. Steve

Have a look at where the wire terminates at the ECU and find out how many connections there are. I suspect the wire will be 'screened twisted pair' so the connection would have 2 wires and a screen. Whatever the wire type you should be able to get some from Radio Spares (RS) or Maplins once you find what it is. You could just bite the bullet and cut a lump of and take it into the shop. A photo would be good. Steve

If you have the engine out then now is the time to fit the trigger wheel and VR sensor. You want to start and run the cam at 2000rpm for 20 minutes to break it in correctly so that is not the time to be messing with MS settings. Run it on the dizzy and ecu until happy with the engine then start the MS process. Steve

I drove mine for some months having to occasionally lay underneath and give the tank a thump with my shoe. It finally gave up and stopped responding to this treatment so I put a new pump in. Just so you are aware, the pump does not have power to it until the airflow meter is open a crack i.e. the engine is turning over. I levered the cover of the meter so I could prop the valve open with a lolly stick whilst abusing the tank and listening for the pump to fire up. I keep the cover in place with a tywrap. Steve

All we need now is for FF to come along and say he has one laying in his field. Steve

2 exhaust, 2 inlet Steve

Use this method of Simons but use the other piece of the broken shaft. Use six batteries and get a really good weld thereby removing the need to replace the shaft altogether. Steve

My 87 is White/Grey for rev counter feed. Steve

The catch comes with 'Blackadised' screws which should be thrown away and replaced with stainless. Mine rusted within minutes of fitting them. Steve

Rather than rebuild you could look out for a second hand engine to throw in. Post a wanted add. Steve

Does anyone know if a mud flap exists with 'Ranger Rover' moulded in? I can find MXC5587 for the classic but without logo. BTR277 (for a 110) has 'Land Rover' moulded. Can find nothing else. Cheers Steve

Here is a free download I have been using for years. It's a converter for loads of different things. http://joshmadison.com/article/convert-for-windows Including today's subject...Torque. Steve

A quick Google on the part number shows David Vincent at £35 odd inc vat and pp. Steve

The link is not working for me. Steve

A previous thread on this subject also suggested EP140 oil as being the ideal compromise between oil and grease. Steve

Single or dual tone air horns are not illegal. Horns that play tunes were, as said, banned but I don't know under what pretext. It is most likely something like improper use of horns which are for an audible warning only. I believe it is also illegal to use a horn after 23.00. Steve

Yes the two parts are better but having mixed it you have to somehow dispense it. You can get it in a tube but it has a special mixing system involving a plunger that has to be pumped up and down lots of times to mix it. When we have used it at work it becomes a two man job, one to mix it then collapse in a heap and the other to apply it. Not only is it very expensive you have to use the whole tube in one hit. Steve

DVLA? Do tell? Steve

Have used sealant on a number of builds. You want to use PU ( Polyurethane) rather than silicone. Sikaflex, tigerseal, whatever, they all seam to do the same job so whatever your local paint or motor factor has in. My latest is Kommerling Kora Pur and cost me £6.30 per tube. comes in black, grey and white. Can be painted over if you want. Steve

HFH your thoughts then on how you would see a suitable mount? My thought would be an inverted, folded, U shape directly under the floor with the roll bar bolted through it from above trapping the floor between. The side cheeks of the U are then down either side of the chassis and welded in place. If the distance between the top of the chassis and the floor was more than an inch or so then I would weld plates front and back to close the U into a box. The nuts would need to be made captive before the section is closed up. Steve

Did you put the exhaust manifold gaskets on the right way round? You can put them upside down or back to front. Net result is that they can both restrict the gas flow and fail to seal properly. Ask me how I know. Steve