steve_d

Bill Is Martin the guy with the classic and the orange 90? If so he was round with me the other day and we built a mount for his coil packs. I have a 150 mig welder but am not confident about either of our abilities to make something strong enough to take the forces the winch can apply. Would be nice to meet up with you if only to bounce ideas. Steve

My Dakar build has a bull bar which is quite high up and mounts to the sides of some extensions coming off the front of each chassis rail upwards at 45 degrees. This makes clearance for a modified grill on cars with aircon. Between the chassis rails there is a winch tray. Net result is there is no location for Jate Rings nor can I see a way to sensibly fabricate something that bolts back into the chassis. I believe some steering guards come with recovery points so the question is..... Has anybody seen a design which would cope when using a 12000lb winch and a snatch block looped back to the guard. Thanks Steve

Some of the B&Q tube is only 1mm wall but they do a selection of round and square tube. You can select different sizes and slide one inside another. The round tube inside a square worked well on my chassis. Steve

5 1/2 here. http://www.f-e-s.co.uk/surp.php?showcat=43 steve

Is it just the pins that fail? If so then it sounds like we need an X-Pin. Steve

I am one of a short list of drivers for a 1986 110 converted for emergency radio communications. The vehicle is fitted with a Warn winch with steel cable. None of the drivers have had any official winch training and the steel cable has likely passed its ‘Sell by date’. Based on this, the use of the winch has been written out of our operating procedures. Sods Law says that one day circumstances will overtake us and the winch will have to be used. Now the question. What should we replace the cable with, steel or synthetic? The choice needs to deal with: • Which would be safest to use in the hands of the untrained? • Which would last the longest spooled on the drum and not used for years? • Would covering the winch give synthetic a longer life? We believe we can get someone to sponsor the cost of the cable. Much as we would like to get our drivers properly trained in off-road driving as well as winch use we cannot demonstrate to our normal sponsors that the vehicle will really need to be used off-road so they won’t fund it. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give. Steve

I like Chris's angle iron version. Minimal amount of cutting and welding and the angle adds stiffness that would be missing from the sheetmetal designs. Steve

I'm new to this but one thing I have gathered is that the ball joint on the A frame has a limited amount of articulation. It sounds like you have gone beyond that point so something had to give. If this were the failure mode then something like this replacement joint may help http://www.x-eng.co.uk/X-Ball.asp Steve

These guys have something similar. http://www.polevolt.co.uk/ Steve

Did you mean the full clip front that hinged forwards? I had one on my Mini as a lad. In one of those junior moments I used it to take the whole side out of a Cortina. Started at the A post and finished by tearing off the rear bumper. The clip suffered only a small split. Steve

On one of my other cars the whole bulb holder rotates in the back of the headlight reflector. You release two screws a few turns, rotate the bulb holder until it stops then re-tighten the screws. Perhaps this is a similar arrangement and may give a clue where to look. Steve

If a list were started would it not be possible to include voting buttons against each entry. Over time you could see a rating not unlike that for a seller on ebay. Steve

SVA accept that adjustable valves are required in order to correct the brake balance in kitcars but insist that they be completely locked once adjusted. There have been test centres that insist the balance-bar type be welded once adjusted rather than just locknuts. If you used an inline type you could make a box to go over it and tack weld that to the chassis. It would seem permanent enough for the tester who may not realise the grinding unwanted bits off of a chassis is an every day thing for LR owners. Steve

This may give you what you want. If not then a better search of the tech archive may help. http://www.landrover.ee/est/files/manuals/...l_injection.pdf Steve

I think you will find the reed switch will not last long either. Steve

You conveniently stow it on the edge of your wheel arches then at the end of a day in the mud you pull it of and use it to clean your wheels. What did I win? Steve

If you find an 87ish RRC with aircon it could be relatively easy to remove and install. There are a number out there but from the looks of mine it was not a factory install but probably installed by the dealer prior to customer delivery. There are a number of clues but the main one is that none of its wiring is in the loom. Steve

Don't forget that judder or snatch can be caused by something like engine and box mounts 'winding-up' then releasing. This also means the same effect can be happening all the way down the drive train so axle and suspension bushes should also come under scrutiny. Steve

It picks it up now but neither did when I first typed it. Anyway how would I know. Steve

If you now have doubts about the hydraulics (Which I'm not convinced about) then a good bleed will do no harm. Roll back the dust seal on the slave cylinder and check if it is leaking but again if it were leaking enough to cause a clutch operation problem then the whole area would be wet with fluid and you would not be here asking questions. You commented earlier about not understanding how oil contamination could affect one area of the clutch plate and not another giving the judder. It does not work quite that way. The whole face will be contaminated but not enough to make the clutch slip all the time. The grip is marginal so will slip then grip again then slip etc. hence the judder. Steve

It is well know engineers can't spell but we do use Google rather a lot. If you download the Google toolbar it will sit at the top of this screen and is instantly ready to just type in what you want to search for. More importantly the bar includes a spell checker which works on anything you are typing into forums etc. Firefox web browser also has a built in spell checker which highlights words as you type in the same way word does. Bizarly just found that the Firefox spell checker does not recognise Firefox as a valid word. Steve

If I remember correctly from other threads you will buy a ready machined fairlead for the same money you will pay for a new cutter (£75+). Steve

Should be a green supply going into the light and Black/Blue coming out and going to the switch an the transmission where it will be earthed. They are easily pulled of by mistake. Steve

IMO if you take care how you drill and tap either using grease, cutting compound or shop vacuum the amount of swarf produced will be minimal. Cast iron does not tend to produce large swarf particles so I see no reason why the turbo will not cope with it. It will all be gone within the first few seconds of the engine starting. Steve

Damn he's quick. Get your x-pumps here. High spec, much better than orange ones, come on now you know you want one. Steve