kkk2

I run a ramsey hydraulic on the front with the dedicated pump driven by the engine, 11mm plasma, I have a EP9 on the back with same rope Reasons for this is we can recover the truck if it is on its side with the rear winch. I have noticed a lot of people use secondhand winches on the rear, I find I use my rear winch about twice as much as my front one

No one has mentioned Toyota Vans we run these and are trouble free, nice to drive and economical to run.

A gentle thump does it for me, mine has just gone around for the second time :D

Happy christmas to all

Here's another:

Ha ha nice one, the tyres are fitted to 10 inch wide rims. cant see the tyres being bunched on these really, anyway just have to bite the bullett and get some more

Thanks for these suggestions, however after the first failure I inspected the other tyres for damage /blemishes and there were none. This failure happened on the road going to the offroad site, it went down suddenly at 50 mph, which was interesting to say the least. I have taken one similar back earlier this year and still have no news on it. While I accept this type of failure is typical of a sidewall damage as I had checked the tyres and the truck had not done any offroading since the check Its hard to see how it could have happened. The tyre failed about 5 miles from home so the tryes were not even hot. These tyres are less than a year old .

A few photos of the failure

I have had two tyres let go in the last week they have split from tyre bead to the thread at right angles to the bead. These tyres were still 50% good, it seems the bead is wearing where it meets the rim. I am running 10 X 15 rims. The tyres are BFG's 35X12.5X15. I am interested any ideas anyone has on this.

Classify this under ingenious: Warn has grafted an air compressor onto a winch to come up with the PowerPlant Dual Force. It makes so much sense that it's surprising that no one's done it before. Think about it, you've got a 4.6 hp electric motor sitting on your bumper. Why not using for something other than winching? It's not like you'll ever need to pump air and winch at the same time, right? Warn rates the compressor at 5 cfm @ 90 psi, which translates to airing up four 35" tires from 8 psi to 35 psi in 8 minutes. That's pretty good, even when compared to an engine-driven compressor. The only question I have is the duty cycle. How long can you continually run the motor before it has to cool, and cool for how long? I'm sure it'll be fine for airing up one vehicle's tires, but the question is how many sets of tires can it air up before needing a break? You may not care, but your buddies will. WARN breaks new ground in the off-road world with the PowerPlant Dual Force. It's one space-saving on-board unit. Both a top-end winch, and a high-end air compressor. Just flip the activator switch to compressor mode and discover the can-do attitude of the PowerPlant. Powered by a 4.6 hp motor, the PowerPlant puts out 5 cfm @ 90 psi, with a built-in air reservoir and intercooler. With the PowerPlant, there's no labor-intensive compressor set up: it's part of our standard winch mounting process. Switch to winch mode and the PowerPlant turns on the latest in legendary WARN winch technology. You get the raw pulling power of our Gen II Series Wound motor. Plus the proven reliability of the 3-stage planetary gear train and a newly designed contactor that's rugged and reliable. In other words, WARN to the rescue, time after time. PowerPlant comes complete with these accessories: Nylon air hose, hand-held control with thermometric LED, quick connect couplers, tire gauge and dual air chuck. The Warn PowerPlant Winch is available in two configurations: 9,500 lb. high performance (HP) for enthusiasts who demand faster line speed, and 12,000 lb. high duty (HD) for longer motor duty cycles.

I have the same dints on my chassis after going over a huge log!!. I had to adjust the doors to catch the strikers again after the bash, other than that I have done nothing to it and it seems fine.

AEM TRU-BOOST GUAGE TYPE CONTROLLER TURBO FULL KIT AEM Tru Boost Gauge- AEM's Tru-Boost Gauge-Type Controller is an electronic boost controller that combines the simplicity of a manual boost controller with the added ease of adjusting boost levels through a gauge interface. There is no external interface required for set up, and it is fully functional right out of the box. There are no gimmicks or special software programs included. If you want more boost press the button on the right of the gauge face, and if you want less boost press the button on the left of the gauge face. It's that simple, and IT WORKS! The controller includes everything you need, including an on-board 29 psig pressure sensor, built-in Overboost protection with two timed shutdown levels, a scramble boost setting and a low-side output for a warning light. The boost control solenoid (included) is the only one specifically manufactured for automotive boost applications, which means it won?t corrode and stick from exposure to rich fuel mixtures, it is pressure tested to 100 psi and includes -4 AN fittings to eliminate any chance of leaks. Features: Complete system includes harness, boost hose, on-board 29 psig pressure sensor, boost solenoid, gauge display and all necessary fittings. No external interface required for programming! Two user selectable boost settings with peak boost memory. Scramble boost setting allows user to momentarily change boost levels. User selectable Overboost alarm includes two timed shutdown levels at 10% and 20% Overboost. User configurable gauge includes 24 scalable LEDs, and interchangeable bezel, pin guide and faceplate to customize look of display. One (1) low-side output included for warning lights. Quick connect technology eases the installation process. Optional 5 bar upgrade available Hi all anyone used one of these? just wondering if it is any use, I like the idea of a variable boost setup. Any ideas on this??

Hey Tonk get a rear camera and screen, get up to date mate, mirrors, used to have them on horses or something like that!!

THe choice seems to be castor correcting radius arms or lately I have seen castor correcting bushes to fit standard radius arms, I have a 4 inch lift and was wondering which is the better route to go?

If you fit a disco 300 tdi engine to a defender you must fit a "Black Top" sender as opposed to the "Green topped" one fitted to Disco's, The Disco sender reads high on a Def, temp gauge.

NO no way, Basil, Maverick plus two going to the Mac 4x4 Nice photos of the parade Liam

Same here to everyone, of course us in Ireland also have a day off too

We use allen heads 12.9 drilled across the head, we wire the five bolts together, never had a problem since

We are using a Salami 2BP22.5-P28P1 Hydraulic pump, Cannot get the numbers from the motor, the electric clutch is a Collagere Clutch Pak, The Winch is a Ramsey 8000 hydro, Line speed is not known, but while not as fast as an 8274, it is faster than the Eastern electric winches, We need 11mm Plasma minimum on it, We run the relief valve at 2200psi and have only stalled the motor once. The set up will run all day every day, the oil tank holds approx 35 ltrs with a filter on the return, The set up is off an utility company truck, The air con pulley from landrover fitted to the crankshaft gives it power, we run a kevlar belt to drive the motor, whole kit cost 600.00 euro second hand. We have a hand trottle to vary the speed, and as it has an electric clutch we have fitted an emergency stop which makes operating it very safe. Two weeks ago we were breaking 9 to 12 inch diameter butts of trees, it could shear the trunks with no hassle. We also run a M8000 on the rear with an 6.5 hp warn motor just in case. I have some photos, I do not know how to put them up though

I run hydraulic set up using an electric clutch set up driven from the air con pulley on the Crankshart with the Hyd. pump mounted where the aircon goes on a 200tdi, this gives all the strenght of the hydraulic set up plus the ability the drive assist if needs be, a 35 ltr tank and a set of solenoide and off we go.

Hi mand, came too late to do anything as T is online again, I see what you meant about Tonk abusing his privilages

The New LRE is made of even crappier paper now, must burn quicker

very few garages do LPG,

Thanks for that Jules, I was wondering what adjustments needed to be made to the auto box to run with a dielel?

Not really, a mate of mine is interested in converting to a diesel due to cost of running the petrol,