ThreePointFive

My 4.0 was from an auto and it made no difference other than the flywheel change.

Anything to avoid that wiring! He is very cute.

Funnily enough, the same happened to mine mentioned in my post above. It died, but it made sure to take a battery with it on the way out. I now have a C-Tek MSX10. Seems to work.

Like an average episode of Watch Wes Work.

I have never witnessed a more fiscally-sound decision and fully support this. Set up a go fund me, I'll contribute.

Just reading through this. A word of caution on the brake cleaner, some brands/formulas will permanently stain any black plastics you spray it on with a white residue. It could make an engine cover, fuse boxes, etc look like carp on seconds and no amount of back to black will make it right. I ruined a shock tower cover on mine when I forgot this point, despite knowing it beforehand.

I can't speak for the motivations of others but my rationale for a centre ATB was: 1. It would engage automatically if I had missed the cues it was time to use the lever - more applicable to an on-road situation where one might not expect to need it and the reaction time would be minimal 2. I heard they remove slop in the drivetrain and I'm all for improving the driving experience 3. I was going to get it refurbished anyway and the cost was a minimal increase for the potential benefits If that makes me a fool then so be it.

That's just crazy though. I can't remember if you had any plans to dyno it, but I think you should! My transfer box ATB has made little to no difference to the way the car "feels", if that's any kind of a measurement. That's not to say I regret it, I'm just not aware of it. I think with axle ATBs, the difference has to be more tangible. ...random thought, but does having ATBs front and rear make the centre ATB pointless?

Yeah it's mom-off-mom. Your explanation is so much simpler than what I was looking at, so that's great. I'll definitely run the fuse, that was the most obvious thing missing. What kind of amperage are we talking about? I take it quite low as the solenoid is doing all the work. Good points, I was running a switch before the rebuild but I didn't install it so I was never really aware of this as an issue. So I get this clear, would that mean having the hand held switch and the cab switch operate at the exact same time? If so, I think it would be incredibly rare for me to operate with the handheld inside the vehicle. Inadvertant operation of the switch is far more likely as I've moved it to the redundant panel by the right knee (on RHD models). I have a spare on/off switch slot which would be perfect for Bowie's solution but it's right next to the momentary switch and seems to be the one that gets knee-operated most commonly (it doesn't do anything at present). I could put an aircraft flip-cover switch in, but I'm not about that Top Gun Maverick life. I'll just have to be more disciplined in the use of the main isolator switch; if the winch is not being used, it is isolated.

I have a switch for my TDS inside the cab that I haven't wired up yet but it would be very useful to bring into use. I'm a complete winch novice as I've only ever had the TDS, are wiring diagrams largely the same between the brands or do I need something specific to the TDS? After some googling I'm struggling to find a specific one that has a switch rather than the basic handheld setup. I've seen a switch directly (no relay or fuses) driving the winch on a generic diagram so I decided to seek the collective expertise of the forum before something gets melted.

Thanks, that's very useful feedback. I've put the drivetrain upgrades on hold until the car is running how I want and I have a garage again. Unless a product emerges that completely changes things, I'll be going with an ATB setup.

I have nothing sensible to add (ever) but I enjoyed the irony of the base making it look like it has a flat tyre.

It looks better than the old SVX models...

I wasn't sure when you first showed them but the wheels really do suit it. I'm so impressed how 'right' it all looks, I thought it was going to end up as a very well built, hugely capable, very badly proportioned car but it's all spot-on. Watching it come together has the same mix of satisfcation/admiration of seeing a set of skills at work and the execution of an idea as Project Binky. I am certain you'll find a way to weld a new canvas top.

Unforuntately that seal is no longer obtainable, but it is tiny and there's no other leaks (as evidenced by normal running with the PWM removed) so I keep coming back it being the source. Seems there were a lot more replies than I first read... I will need to catch up.

I've been done in with COVID since Monday so I've only just waddled myself outside to look at this again. The engine idles as normal as soon as I take the PWM out of the equation so I know it's something it is/isn't doing. The idle screw is set to 600 so I am back to where I started. I've hooked it up to the battery and it does move freely with voltage applied so it's not stuck, which was my first thought. I know it's been said on the previous page, but can I just check - is it meant to be open or closed when current is applied?

I have requested my posts are deleted if that's the interpretation. I have simply tried to offer an objective view about this vehicle and the result that has been achieved.

Yeah, but it costs you twice as much for the pleasure and they'll market it as a feature (and people will believe them). I cannot imagine trying to convince myself to tolerate the ergonomic issues in a brand new, clean-sheet design. The fact it's the RHD model that is worst effected says it all for me and speaks volumes about Radcliffe's approach. This was about getting a vehicle out and not wanting to lose face in front of Land Rover, not about making the best product possible. Pure billionaire ego at play. That they couldn't be bothered (or just plain couldn't) engineer a solution to the exhaust manifold location doesn't bode well for the quality of engineering elsewhere. I'm not even going to repeat the ridiculousness of those overhead switches and just how many Jonny had to press on his off-road sections. I'll take my one leaver, thanks.... Talk about a betrayal to the initial design brief, this thing's got more electronics and screens than a Currys. Each to their own but this is such a compromised design. It is as Jonny says, a car motivated by spite.

Ah yes, finally a proper motoring journalist. I've been looking forward to this review of Sore Jim's Grenohdear.

Yes it is, starts at 90 and will decrease quite rapdily to whatever I have set as the closed value once it sees it's above the target RPMs.

The other option is a two-socket USB like Jame's above but cut into the headlight levelling switch hole so you retain the use of the cigarette lighter socket. That's what I did, but I'm thinking of swapping the cigarette lighter over to USB too, they're pretty much useless these days.

I think the PWM has to be stuck given the engine went back to normal revs when I blocked it off. The question is whether it's stuck due to malfunction or because it's not getting told to move. Would having the live/earth the wrong way around cause it to do nothing?

We posted at the same time...! I can't get the idle to come down from 2000, seems like the PWM is stuck open to me. Is there any way to bench test it? Should changes made in the PWM settings update to the unit itself without the engine running? I.e. on the ignition only. I am hearing/feeling nothing going on with it when changing values with the engine off.

It all sounded so simple when I typed it out, but I failed to account for INFE*. I tried the settings in my post above and it's going straight to 2,000 rpm, sometimes more. Nothing changed in the PWM settings changes the idle. I blocked the pipes off as I thought I'd introduced a huge vacuum leak and but it returns to slow lumpy idle normality, so the issue is in the PWM side. I set the idle screw to 600-ish while I had it isolated. *(It. Never. F##king. Ends.)

It's staring me in the face in that table. Closed DC is set to 50. I just need to adjust that until it is actually closed, which should be lower but not zero or it starts to open again - or so the internets tell me. That also means I can keep the idle screw closed and use this figure to always keep it open by that amount. There might not be any advantage to that but at least I'm only dealing with the variable of the PWM. The internets also keep mentioning a diode is used in a lot of setups to avoid problems. I don't see anything about that in the instructions. And of course it should be in closed loop, not just warm up. I need it to act all the time to smooth out the idle. 830rpm seems a little high for the default slow idle to me, though.