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Everything posted by ThreePointFive

  1. Thanks Bowie, if you hadn't said that I would have wheeled it into the canal.
  2. Late to the party but the single biggest motivating factor for me is time. We drive vehicles that sooner or later we may not have the freedom to drive. Be it tax, insurance for modifications being increasingly difficult to obtain (fewer brokers) or legislation that we can all see looming, it's coming. I want to get a couple of years in driving the car I've always wanted while it's still allowed. Keeping a build thread going was my way of holding myself to account to have progress on something worth talking about. I eventually realised the content didn't add anything new to the forum
  3. Those were the first gens, as said by others, the second gen are better in a number of ways but still have the black spot in front of the car (which is one reason I don't want to go that way). The other being reported issues with visibility in dusk and some depth perception.
  4. Yeah, that nearly got me too. Who only needs one headlight ffs...
  5. All, thanks, I know this appears to be overcautious but I know that most vehicle fires are caused by wiring and this is my first go at wiring an entire vehicle - the mess behind the dash is truly frightening. I have fused everything except the battery to starter feed, but there's always potential for a mistake to have been made. This would be insurance against any mistake on my part, but I take on board what you say about the heat needed to activate the extinguisher being too high to save the truck. Fridge - it would be one behind the dash and another in the engine bay, you are
  6. An issue emerged last week that I need to ask the V8 gurus about, and seeing as so many are active in this section, here is probably the best place to ask. Due to a miscommunication, I didn't change the conrod cap bolts for new. I now know these are stretch bolts and should be replaced (the manual doesn't say this). I think I can do this in-situ just with the sump off. Am I right or is this an engine-out job? The manual says the bearings should be replaced whenever the caps are removed. I won't necessarily need to remove them, I can remove and replace one bolt at a time, and the
  7. As I get closer to the end of the build, I'm conscious of how many potential fire hazards there are in a Land Rover. I wondered if anyone has experience with fire suppression equipment in any vehicle, what works and what doesn't. Ideally, anything fitted would be automatic so there's no reaction time/decision making involved and would work whether the car is on or not. Initially I was looking for the kind of systems where a pressurised container is linked to a pipe that melts at the point of fire and releases the extinguishant. There are downsides to this, mostly storge and packaging.
  8. An LSD will typically limit the difference in speed/torque between wheels, so turning both shafts rather than favouring the one with grip. The result would be the same when used with fiddles though. Could it be worth dropping the LSD if you're after maximum agility, given they are prone to pushing on in right corners? You would then be able to brake a spinning wheel if traction is lost and transfer torque to the stationary one, like a manual form of ETC. I am sure brake pads are cheaper than diff clutches etc.
  9. I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on the LEDs when/if you do get them working. Prices are now sensible money but it still sounds like the lumen output hasn't caught up to fluorescent just yet. I want to add an additional two lights in my garage as the half nearest the door is unlit, but don't want to add a whole new feed/switch etc. so just want to extend off the existing wiring. Worried I will run up against issues with the rating of the existing wiring by adding much more load - hence my interest in LED. it should be ok but this is a new build where everything is the bare min
  10. Yep, either eBay or my tablet really doesn't want me to directly link to it. If I try it says the ad can't be found. It's a mog-axled 110 with some really nice touches. So worth the copy and paste of the item number.
  11. Stephen, merry Christmas and thanks for making this forum a better place just by your presence. I'd make a 'presents' pun but I can't be bothered.
  12. https://www.ebay.co.uk/ item no. 143887835647 Not cheap, but interesting. Looks well executed. Can't get it to link, no idea why.
  13. One thing to note with the motor legal protection offered by insurers is that they may only cover you for no-fault cases. I noticed when renewing with one insurer that it was carefully worded so you would not receive any help with claims made against you. So in these scenarios, not useful to you.
  14. It was this that made me question my kit, but that said, I'm more worried from an 'on paper' legal compliance point of view and not just passing the MOT. I also wonder if declaring these on your insurance (legal or not) will mean you're covered, or if the "roadworthy" clause in most contracts would trump that, but that's a rabbit hole.
  15. Watching with interest as I have converted my car to LED all-round except headlights. I have the Wipac side/brake/indicator package which were sold as E marked and fully road legal. Sounds like they fit into this grey area of not being specifically ok under law.
  16. JLR don't even seen to have awareness of their own internal range and how their models fit within it, let alone paying attention to the actions of competitors.
  17. Nice, I found it really satisfying to build the engine back up. Almost a shame to hide it in the guts of the car. Just realised we're talking about the conrod cap bolts (clearly wasn't paying attention). I didn't replace mine as I am sure on the phone Turners said they didn't need to be and saw no mention of it in the manual. Looks like I might be pulling my engine, then.
  18. Cool video Naks, but thought my doorbell was going off a couple of times.... These things really are a lot more capable out of the box than a lot of people would like, it's good to see.
  19. I tend to err on the more "particular" end of the scale, but my logic is: If they are stretch bolts and you re-use them, you might get issues. If they are not stretch bolts but you buy new, they won't cause issues (just cost). There is only risk one way on this. Besides, I'm sure shiny new bolts add 1hp each.
  20. It's not "vintage" (40s, 50s, 60s) enough for the kind of automotive memorabilia that's the most collected, so it'll jar with other items that are commonly grouped together. It's also quite difficult to mount in most garages as its double sided so really needs to hang from a rafter or something in the middle of an area. That's going to look pretty awkward and I'm sure most of us want more headroom clearance, not less! Cutting it into two signs as suggested above would make it far more attractive/sellable as it can be wall mounted and the electrics updated (LEDs too, but would need t
  21. What are the right ones on ebay? Knowing my luck, I'll buy a bad fake, not a good fake.
  22. I thought it was a legal requirement for a fast flash when one indicator fails. Just realised you're right as half of mine aren't plugged in and when I've tested them got a normal flash rate.... Mine are Wipacs so should comply with all regs, I see an E mark on yours too if I'm not mistaken.
  23. I found I had to pack the bracket that secures it to the bulkhead with a surprising number of rubber pads to fill it out to fit the TD5 motor but otherwise a straight swap, it will fit your loom as that's what I did.
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