teabag

Kevinr. You can fit a Y pipe without 'cats' to engine to increase the performance of the engine. The 3.9 engine ECU will have to be modified to take into account the changes as the exhaust with not have as much restriction and the lambda sensors will be missing. Will it past the MOT emmission test will depend on how good the engine tune has been done, you may have to reinstate the old Y pipe with the 'cats' just for the MOT test. If you are after increased performance then Janspeed Exhaust do a Y pipe fitted with de-restricted 'cats'. you can add the two tublar manifolds and also a sports mid and tail box to that if you wish. Your tax or any thing like that will not increase.

RU Are you using the correct grade of engine oil ?

So have I, I have two A frame mounted spotlights fitted from day one. It's the way Land Rover wire them as standard, as the wiring already exists behind the grill..

A 072 battery has a CC of 660 and 096 has a CC of 668 and are the same size. Have look here........http://www.performancebatteries.co.uk/battery_information We don't know about your disco but a Td5 battery has a CC of 110

Would that be 800 pennies then. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY...A1%7C240%3A1318 Take your existing key into a shop that does key cutting and get a copy.

I have fitted tweeters on the door card (but not on a disco) easy to fit as they are surface mount and picking the signal from the door speaker via an inline capacitor which comes in the kit. The standard D1 disco door loudspeakers are 114mm or 4.1/2 inch so to upgrade these use 2way or if you use 3way leave out the tweeter above. Because the magnets will be thicker u can either remove a bit of door metal to allow the magnet to sit deeper into the door void or use spacer rings. If you are going to follow the component route you will have to make door pods to house the base speaker using the door bins as a pattern, the midrange will use the existing speaker location.

I think there's enough weight already on the back door and the hinges without adding a 10" speaker and an amp to it. You wouldn't get an amp through the access holes in the inner door panel that's behind the door card.

On a D1 you can see the windscreen connectors located below the bonnet hinges there's a connector on each side. Don't know about a D2

Pre March 1994 Drivers footwell and post March 1994 behind passenger side facia , according to the Haynes manual. I can't see the relay listed in my LR parts book.

There's disco's and there's disco's which one is yours. On mine a 1997 model you pull off the round controls knobs, undo the retaining screws and remove the front plate and then you are able to see the single bulb.

Funny I had a new lead pop out within a day or so of fitting the leads so had to double check. So u don't know what was the cause of the high tickover then.

I fitted a Kenlow to my hobby car (1976 Ford Capri) back in 1978 since then I have only had to replace the thermo coupler once, it broke where it entered the top hose. Unfortunatly things like X switches weren't around then. The fan came with two round L shape rods, one part of the rod mounted to the chassis infront of the rad then it rises up and clamps to the fans motor. So the fan is infront of the rad held by two vertical rods. I believe Kenlow to alternative fitting kits to this 'cable tie' method, one includes brackets to mount on the metal radiator surround ie. the rad mountings and then to the fan. I'm supprised that Kenlow still use the heat sence method they did 32 years ago, maybe the have an alternative as an extra. Worth enquiring at Kenlow I think.. Also I have read that you can remove the fan on a Tdi and do with out it.

Loads of part numbers for transfer boxes, Tdi auto and manual Efi auto and manual, then there's part numbers for boxes with suffix C,D,E,F and G. I thought that would be easy to answer, just look in the parts book, now I don't have a clue

Hi Kevinr, I have also seen the NGK/Champion spark plugs debate in LR forums but haven't taken any notice. Land Rover supplied my disco with Champion and the service department replaced the plugs with Champion, and now I do my own servicing, I recently replaced my plugs after 20,000 miles of use and fitted Champion. The new plus certantly made the engine more responsive. So I don't have any probs with Champion.

Unlike the 3.5 you can't adjust the tickover on a 3.9, the ECU looks after that, although there is the base idle speed that is set at the factory you should not require to set this adjustment. Have pulled a hose off or have a split hose, you might have an air leak or have put a kink in the throttle cable. I never done it but there are concerns when replacing the rotor arm in that the springs in the dizzy and come loose but if there was a problem then the engine would misfire I think. I would look for an air leak.

You will be after tail lamp assemblies that have four bulb holders. They were fitted to some 300 series disco as standard, my 1997 model has them. The parts book is not too clear on discription but try AMR1295 RH and AMR1294 LH Flasher relay is YWT10002L may be, it depends on VIN as there a few to choose from. Rear wiper relay YWB10032L Green it depends on VIN and located LH foot well A post is that driver or passenger side I don't know. The wiper sweeps four times then switches to a short delay with a single sweep.

Hi Rocky. Average???? what a question, about 18 average same as my D1 may be... and the V8 does have an engine managment ecu with various sensors to look after it.

Good luck then discodave. When u get it sorted come back and tell us all how u got on. Regards

Hi discodave, Famous 4 have been around some time so should be able to put a finger on the problem. Not always possible I know but a second opinion would be nice. What made u think it was the rear diff ?. Changing the oil can do no harm only a 10 mins job, and if theirs no change in the whine then Famous 4 may be right The clunk is loud anyway but you should not feel any vibration associated with the clunk so if u can feel that, then there's something worn such as a bearing. Did Famous 4 quote you a Price? Regards

a. Not unless u leave them on without the engine running. b. Up the inside of the 'A' pillar and drill a hole in the roof or outside behind the windscreen rubber. c. Any switch will do to switch the relays that you will require. Sorry I don't know what a 'blank' switch is.

I just shown this thread to my cousin, now a Dealer Principle a a Vauxhall garage. He says that when he was a salesman he got fed up with the "just looking brigade" and the first thing a customer should say " I what to buy" It doesent matter what you are wearing or what you park outside. A lot of dealerships are the sameas LR ones. I had a problem in getting some attention when I wanted buy my disco, I parked my old RRC infull view of the showroom on a Saturday morning and in my old gear I went in, no one came to help me even after opening a few car doors and slaming them shut. So after 20 mins I saw the showroom receiptionist and said to her "Would anyone like to sell me a Discovery" then a salesman slowly walked over. I could/should have walked out and gone to another garage but this one suited me for the servicing. Ten years later, I went into a Jag showroom as they were doing a deal on the X type at the time. As before on a Saturday in old clothes<I was in and out or the whole range of Jags and just standing around, nobody came to see me, two fellers in suits seem to have all the attention, one salesman doing the talking the other two standing back looking on. After 30mins this time I left the Jag showroom (Sidcup) and went to a Honda showroom. The showroom is above the garage and as as I arrived at the top of the stairs I was welcomed with a "Hi how can I help you", I then sat down and bought a Honda that day. Didn't think much of the Jaguars anyway although the big XJR looks nice, but so does any "top of the range" vehicle in a showroom.

All D1 and 3.5 RRC autos clunk when going into reverse the noise comes from the transfer box, selecting reverse a bit slower may make it a bit quieter. I don't worry any more as I have had 21 years of the clunk. Some say filling the diff with a synthetic oil will make the diff quieter, may be wothe a try.

When I fitted my new cat back system I had to break that joint. All I did is clean the olive and the plate with a wire brush and reasemble with Holts fire gum. You must keep the pipe and joint inline and do up the two nuts evenly, also I used a quarter of the fire gum on the joint most of it squeezed out but it's a 100% seal.

A car spring recycled into a spanner. Cool

Up the A pillar to the interior lamp may be.