teabag

The only common thing I suspect is the earth connection which may be common to all circuits. There is some earth post behind the dash fuse box and side kick panels it may be that the nut on the post only requires tobe tightend up. Earth the cig lighter with a bit of wire and see if it then works.

There are three circuits to the rear sub. 12+v amp power taken from the head unit supply, (light green/orange wire at the amp, also a local earth wire which is black at the amp). The 12+v amp switching wire (purple/yellow at the amp). The audio signal cable (black & white wires in a screened cable). The colours may change, but the circuits have not.

Thats right HID bulbs should be used in lamps deigned for them. Have a look at this link http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bu...onversions.html

Back in 03 a LR dealer charge me £64 + vat for a (supply only) n/s/f regulator not so cheap then.

You have two things to look at and may and maynot be related 1. Rattley tappets and 2. Oil pressure light. 1. Oil should remain within the hydraulic tappets overnight, it will remain for months. I suggest u change the oil and fill up with the correct grade or maybe use a higher/thicker grade depending on the mileage of the engine. 2. If the engine has done a high mileage then the pressure relief valve assembly may be excessive worn check the valve for fit ie no side movement or any scoring also check the spring for wear on the sides, the valve and spring are located behind the hex bolt on the side of the oil pump. Also may be worth changing the oil pressure switch also when u change the oil and filter. regards

There are three circuits to the rear sub. 12+v amp power taken from the head unit supply, (light green/orange wire at the amp, also a local earth wire which is black at the amp). The 12+v amp switching wire (purple/yellow at the amp). The audio signal cable (black & white wires in a screened cable). A break or lose connection in any wire will stop the sound. The colours may change but the circuits have not.

Hi, Yes D1 3.9s have both, from what year I don't know, but my 1997 model has. It was when the V8 D2 arrived in 1999 the engine was called 4.0 and now fitted with GEMS. Regards

For the passenger door it could be something simple as the servo unit in the door requires a slight adjustment and for the drivers door a bit of lube (WD40) to the rods that link to the lock and to the lock it's self.. U nead to take off the door cards and see what's happening when u lock and unlock.. As mentioned there is a small spring within the lock that can break.

Try www.rimmerbros.co.uk

Sounds your fob is out of sync with the alarm so remove the fob battery and then refit it and with the doors unlocked with the key press the lock button on the fob at least four times.. there's more u can, thats just for starters. Regards

patman External coolant leaks can be seen by looking all around the engine and rad when both are hot and under pressure not with the expansion/header tank cap off, u may need a torch to help u, and any drips u see then tighten the clips. Also have a look at the core plugs on the side of the block. If nothing is found then suspect your head gasket is about to blow or already has. When the engine is slowing down (losing power) that is not a safety feature, but the engine is about to seizes up and u have gone to far if u have reached that point. I not up on D2s and I may have mis-understood u but I thought that the system would be sealed as a D1 so why do u have an overfow pipe as such from the expansion/header tank. u may have to take the car in and have the system pressure tested. Regards

Yes that's all I can do, remove the glass and have a look. I'll wait for a nice day I don't use the sunroofs so it's not that important. Regards

The rev counter picks up pulses from the alternator therefore check all the electrical connections at the alternator..It's a common problem.

I trying to find how the mechanical operation of the sunroof works but there's not much on this subject on the webb (loads on leaks in sunroofs). Mine's electric so I press the button the motor go's around and the glass opens up to a tilt, press the button again it sildes back to the fully open postion, so how does it do that? what are the gubbins in the sunroof to do all of that. Why do I want to know? Well when I was cleaning the glass (something to do) I notice that there was a bit of mis-algnment of the glass and there was a bit more of the seal showing at the front corner so I opened the roof fully and thinking the 4 glass screws were lose I tapped the glass, it moved slightly so when I tapped again then there was a crack sound it was not the glass but I later found out with the aid of a small mirror that a plastic roller mounting has broken of the arm that runs in the track and which the glass is attached to. The nylon roller is just laying in the track there's still a roller left on the arm there should be two. Now the sunroof only opens to the tilt but no more, the non-damaged side wants to go but is held back by the broken side which seems locked.. Other than the broken pully have I pushed the glass off the end of the track also?. Thanks in advance for helping me try and understand a dark subject for me which may solve my prob.

You shouldn't have to top up your a/c unless u have a leak so get the car to an a/c repairers to check it over. As already mentioned Kwick Fit were doing a/c checks last summer may b still doing it.

Use a sealent that is ok to use on metal, some don't stick to metal and will easly peel off when dry. in the past I have used a waterproof window sealent from B & Q it's brown but what shows is easly to clean off and if it can't be seen then no probs..

It was in 1993 that anti-roll bars were introduced on the disco, so a 1992 disco will not have them fitted, but bolt on kits a available to upgrade. As for springs, replace them with a standatd set for comfort unless u are going to do a lot of towing then replace them with a heavy duty set and for dampers go for the gas pressurized ones and it dosen't end there.. there's all of those bushes to replace. I see that Britpart do a matched spring/damper kit. Regards

I know u have moved on a bit with this problem but I had the same thing and all it was the transfer box had dropped in to neutral. I had not engaged high fully but a harder push of the lever got me into high.

All the switches are simple make or brake. On the bonnet switch pull apart he wiring connector and test it with a meter or a lamp and battery to check continuity there may be a bit of corrosion in the plug which u will see, or within the switch itself (doutfull) u will find if it's ok with the tester . and if the interior lights up when each door is open then no problems there but it's worth having a look if your prob is intermittent. If D2 door switches are the same as a D1 then u can easly remove them.

When u press the button on the remote the alarm control looks to see if any of the 5 doors or the bonnet are still open and if so the alarm control will not set and will give a single beep. I'm sure know that.. So if everything is shut and there is still a beep from the control then this would suggest that one of the switches either door or the bonnet is faulty in some way and not giving the shut signal to the control. First look at the bonnet switch as the door switches will be ok if they still operate the overhead interior lights. There other things but go for the simplest things first.

Webasto have a piece of kit called Hot Shot that heats the washer fluid to 65deg It's ideal if u r on snow covered roads a lot of the time.

Although I havent this problem, I can see what u mean for such a major componant it's very flimsy not even a rubber shroud over the plug. All I can suggest is have a look in a Maplin shop or RS or Farnell componants on line..Have you try'd a repair with this 'apoxi putty' thats on the market, u know the one that has two parts which u cut and mix together, U can then form form a new shell around the existing cracked one. Just a thought. Regards

The speakers still have paper diaphagms in a ES and although they sound very good, its not untill u fit 'decent' loudspeakers that u notice the difference. I replaced my front and rear speakers with Pioneer TS-G1 1049 (still retaining the existing covers) and put a boxed 10 inch sub in the boot, picking up the signal and the 12v switching power for the 100watt amp (located under the front passanger seat) from the backdoor sub. A two way switch is used so I can switch the 12v back to the door amp when the 'sub in the box' is removed ti give space in the boot when needed. 12v is the green wire at the backdoor amp and the signal wires are the black and white also at the amp. Cables from the door amp followed the existing wiring through the door edge tube then under the boot mat to the amp underneath the seat and the power cable for the amp is from the battery via a existing hole in the bulkhead then under the dash and under the passengers carpet to the amp. The existing head unit is adjusted with the treble /base control so that the speakers handle the high and mid range and the 'sub in a box' set at 100db handles the lower mid range and the base signals. Sorted.. For loudspeakers etc http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/

Its a direct swap 300 series lights to the early Td5 lights. The LRO mag did a bit a year or so a go. So easy the the owner had is young son do the job, the result was a better light output. The 'facelift' Td5 HID lamps requires a cutting job

I had a water leak on the passenger side and after removing the plastic kick panel found that it was coming from the area where the steel bracket that suports the dash is bolted through to the inner wing. A finger tip dab of roofing sealent stopped the leak. Silicone didn't stick U will need a bright touch to see any thing amongest the wires etc under the dash. Regards