teabag

Corrosion on the piston that is lifting the chrome plating so they are sticking the permanent fix is to replace the piston or fit a peplacement caliper s/h or new.

ATF Dexron 3, or the oil that's stated in the owners handbook, also make sure no dust/dirt gets in to the system so don't do the job in the street. Have a look at Ashcrofts web site Q&As on warnings about changing auto's ATF before u start.

Are you talking about starting from cold, if so then you should let the engine management take care of it and keep your foot off the throttle as that lets in more air and weakens the mixture. My starting is not instantaneous like some cars, takes at least three seconds to fire. May be time to look at the fuel side of things. Have you replace fuel and air filters ?

As you are running a D2 then I believe the central locking actuator is combined with the lock unlike the D1. Thats progress for you.

Nationwide Trim do them. http://www.nationwidetrim.demon.co.uk/discovery.htm

Easy, just slacken the adjustments on the rod that links the steering box to the nearside wheel, and then turn to correct and then tighten. Sorry can't help with which way to turn.

The only addition to my ICE is a 200watt amp under the front passenger seat and a 10" 'sub in a box' in the boot. The amp switching power supply from the head unit is picked up at the back door amp via a micro two way switch, if the 'sub in a box' is removed I switch the power supply back to the back door sub and that then switches on.

Disco 2 ABS sensors are built into the hub so it's a replacement hub, where as the good old D1 sensors are external and only a tight push fit in their mountings and 'easy' to replace.

RRC seats will fit but there's some small mods to be done the the seat runners also the electrics can be a problem. Back seat is a straight replacement. If u have a cubby box then the RRC arm rests can't be used (fold down) as the box is in the way and front RRC seats are a bit wider so 'may' just touch the front door card. It's a subject has come up a few times, so do a search here and in other LR forums, its well worth doing is the opinion from owners that have replaced their seats.

This is one of the reasons I don't use my sunroofs, they do bounce if open fully when driving even on normal roads "they all do that" but mine didn't rattle but could a knock sometimes, all very iffy. I now understand, at last, what guide we are talking about, that guide normally has some grease to stop any ware but the bushes are only plastic/nylon so could break up and drop out so that is something to look for. Although easy to replace once the glass is removed the arm can be pulled out slightly and the bush falls off. May be something like clear plastic tube could be used as a replacment, cut into small peices and it's flexable so will form the oval shape.

They are white hard nylon rollers if i'm thinking of the same thing. Four rollers on each side and fitted to the bottom ot the operating arm that lifts the glass up. Two rollers on my roof have broken away and so it jamed open, I managed to close roof and the two locking tabs have engaged so pulling the glass onto the seal. At least it doesn't leak. Spares are not available. so I bought off 'ebay' a complete sunroof to cannibalize, but as I hardly use the sunroofs and the faulty one at the back I never use the repair may never get done. Thats £30 down the drain. I didn't think it was a common problem so I'm suprised.

It's Urban Panzer he about most days on the LRO forum http://www.lro.com/forum/

Or, use the part numbers I supplied above.

K&N's can cause issues with the MAF because of the oil used on the air filters, "allegedly".

K&N's can cause issues with the MAF because of the oil used on the air filters. Also If u want extra performance then you must be able to get the increased fuel mixture into the engine so bigger inlet valves and also for the valve to remain open longer so a different camshaft. Then you must get rid of the burnt gasses so the exhaust must be changed etc etc. Stay with the replacement paper filter

AMR5344 LH and AMR5345 LH @ £71.51 each plus postage. Have a look at this link http://rimmerbros.richfx.com.edgesuite.net...dia/discovery2/

Yes my tubes/T piece is now over the back of the washer bottle but only because the tube is now shorter after I cut the damaged ends off. And have still got the scars as a result of trying to get to the pump.. Regards

Normally the hose and T piece are just laying behind the washer bottle. U was unlucky if you had to remove the bottle to get access. A tight couple of laps of electrical tape around the hose ends and they won't split there again.

The question was not 'for who's benefit is the airbag'. A vehicle insurance premium is base on a perceved risk to the occupants and therfore removing or isolating an air bag increase's the risk. Im sure if a vehicle crash was investergated and if it involved a vehicle fitted by the manufacture with two front airbags and only the drivers airbag had deployed and not the passengers, also the passenger was injured, the reason would be looked into. I do fire investestgations for insurance companies not for vehicle claims but claims fire damage in office bulidings and if I can find something wrong, and we do look and measure everything, the claim will not be paid in full. If an inspector is 'eagle-eyed' he/she will get paid very well.

I fitted a Janspeed cat-back SS system and on my first drive with the new exhaust it was loudish inside, which I didn't want as the existing system was very quite. I thought I was wrong in fitting this system. But as told then and cipx2 says above after 500 miles or so we are back to normal although the sound from the tail pipe is a little louder than from the old tail pipe and that I don't mind.

Insurance is boring I know, but my question is, would an insurance company invalidated the policy if they found out that a safety feature of that vehicle had been removed. Also 4x4 vehicles (as far as I have seen) don't have dash mounted grab handles now, I assume because there's an air bag mounted there, that's why I see pasengers holding on to the handle above the door when the going gets rough.

Yes, door locking actuator as Land Rover call them, the servo bit is inside. Inside there is an electric motor that revolves one way to lock and the other way to unlock hence moving the operating rod in or out. If it's the servo motor pushing the button up (u can hear it clonk as if unlocking) then it may just require a adjustment of the actuator undo the mounting screws and move the the actuator only a fraction and try the locking button again. I don't think have a major problem, is simple as I have recently found out Ihad something similar with my back door, then I took the actuator apart and re-greased the cogs in side but I had to re-sync and adjust when installing the unit back into the door Something in the system or controller dosen't allow only one door to lock.

There's a lot of extra strain on the pump at full lock thats why there is some extra noise. But as for a 'rumbling' noise that could be the bearing in the pump or a loose fixing. Have you not opened the bonnet with the steering is on full lock and the engine is running and had a look? then you will know where it' coming from.. and what would you be doing on full lock other than slow speed parking. WRC driving.

Hi Irnewbie 1. Your right it's the spring that's the symptions 2. Sounds like the servo is out of sync and is trying to unlock the door while u are telling it to lock. So u must get access to the survo unplug it and then slowly push the operating rod in the opposite direction to what it is, and then reconnect the plug. And the lock must be like mine as I can only get the key in 3/4 of the way. Why bother u won't use it when the CL is functioning correctly. 3. Yes it is. Drivers door is the main the other four are slaves.

For a WM for a disco 1 up to 1996 have a look here. http://www.landrover.ee/est/varia/downloads/cars.htm