teabag

Some disco's are prewired for spot lamps, the plugs can be found behind the grill infront of the rad. have a look at this link to a LRO forum. http://www.lro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=20636

Sensing is via a 60 tooth exciter ring and an inductive sensor.

My damp patch in the passenger footwell was a result of water geting through the bolt hole in the inner wing where the support bracket for the glove box is located. So take off the passenger kick panel and with a bright tourch look up under the dash and look at the bracket mounting on the inner wing u may see water stains from the fixing bolts or even a small drip of water as all I had was one or two small drips a minute which was all I needed to wet the carpet felt. A quick blob of mastic over the bolt head did the trick..

I have been looking at sunroof web sites and it appears that sunroofs do leak for various reasons and that's why car manufacters fit sunroofs with drains and I thought they should be water tight.

You do know that 'face lift' D2 headlamps don't fit directly to a D1. They don't even fit directly to a pre-face lift D2 with a bit of metal work. Yes there was a special edition disco that LR called Arden, it's also a colour Arden Green

You need to get access to the top retaining screws of the grill, and on a 94 model onwards you need to remove the indicator headlamp and surounding trim. So then you need the bonnet open first

If u copy your question to the RR forum you may get a response, although to remove the arm rest you will have to get into the inside the seat, ether via the removal back panel if there is one or remove the seat then from underneath.

Thank your for your reply and that tip re the scoring on the flange BogMonster that's somthing that i wouldn't have look for. Regards

Nice day so I changed the oil in front and rear diffs, would believe it the rear now leaks from the driveshaft oil seal. It's only a drip at the moment but I intend to replace the seal soon. Questions. I have the replacement seal and a new nylock nut for the flange but didn't get the mudshield can I reuse the old one ? And what is the best way to to remove the old seal, self tapping screw method or should I go and get the Draper tool that has hooks to pull the seal out, some thing I may never use again or make something up to do the job ? Thanks and regards

Have a look at this link Tony, http://rimmerbros.richfx.com.edgesuite.net...dia/discovery2/

Not all head units are compatible with cd, and as u have a 95 300 series it's a 'may be not' and only radio/cassette, the display should be top l/h side. If u have a mute/mode button (the first of the 12 function buttons) toggle through radio,cassette or cd to find out. The multi cable handles everything. The remotes do their one thing, common prob, u can try a spray of switch clean or be like me and just use the head unit controls. And WELCOME Regards

The induction and exhaust are a balanced system on the 3.9, therefore removing the mid box and so reducing some back pressure without and modification to the engine management will cause problems to the running and give excesive fuel consumption. Best to replace the exhaust with a cat back sports system that's designed and balanced for the engine it will give you a noticeable improvement to the driveability and that V8 sound. I know all this because I tried it but now have have a s/steel Janspeed cat back system fitted.

Hi DiscoDaz. It's not unknown for the fan resistor unit whch gives u the fan speeds to pack up also so can the fan speed slider switch. But go for the easy things first and as dougstar says change that relay. Also get a Haynes Service Manual from Halfords which will help with most problems, or if u want the real thing Land Rover's own Repair Manual or download from the webb.

Excelent info cress as my disco is 11 yeard old If you don't mind some questions.. U don't have the automatic immobliser function now, why. Are there any implications now that u don't have the timer/delay in the alarm after it has been set. Can the delay of the interior light cause a problem with the alarm now u don't have the delay as above. Did u have to remove the alarm ecu from it's location behind the dash for Ian to work on it. Thanks & regards

I use the bog standard Comma 80w90 GL4 oil at £12 for 5ltrs in my diffs and T box. Re the swivels on my old RR I just pumped some LM grease in to the swivel filler (no more than 10 pumps of the gun) and the leak stopped and stayed that way, I sold the RR 40k miles lated a still not leaking..

I have a LR disco parts catalogue and ETC5424 is for non-cat and also a cat system. ESR3737 is for a cat system from VIN VA703237 and VA534104. And that's what u said. Regards

Poly-carb wind deflectors are available I can find the link and post in the forum if required, the company is formula4x4.com With the door try adjusting the lock striker plate to bring the door closer, the hinges are adjustable also, but unless u know what u are doing leave alone as u could upset the door alignment. A passenger could help in placing their hand around the door to feel for a draft, or elliminate the door issue altogether The induction/exhaust is a balanced system on a V8 so if u mean by a "straight through exhaust" you can see t through the pipe end to end with no baffles then your engine will not run very well, unless the induction side is altered/modified. The exhaust I fitted is a sports exhaust tuned for the V8 and there are baffles in the boxes to give the amount of back pressure required. Regards

Hi there again, my exhaust backbox finally went after ten years, so I replaced the exhaust with a 'cat back' stainless steel system, there was a instant noticeable differance with the engine being much more responsive a lot of money but well spent. Changing plugs and leads can also make a big differance. Yes I had a long travel brake pedal I bled the brakes and the pedal went back to normal, not a 'sharp' as some modern cars are now but Discovery normal, around 50mm or so travel. Are the pads ok? Wind noise, a problem with the passenger door seal rubber, may be. Bonnet, u may be able to adjust the bonnet catch to pull down the bonnet, again may be. Regards

My disco dosen't lean but it's still on the original springs. For a diesel from vin MA116461 the front spring no's are Driver side ANR4351 Passenger side ANR4350 and for the V8 it's 572315 for both sides. Rear springs for both vehicles are ANR3477 on both sides. HD rear springs for both vehicles are STC8937 on both sides. Note: Vehicles fitted with HD springs must have a front anti-roll bar fitted and have the rear anti-roll bar removed. All the above info is in a disco parts catalogue.

I haven't fitted extra gauges since the black & white days when i had a mini cooper. That had an oil temp was picked up form a sandwich plate, water temp location exists as does the oil pressure or if not then its the sandwich plate. I no nothing about on turbos so I can't help with the boost gauge pickup. The gauges u mention are normally for a performance engine so it may be be difficult to get a sandwich plate for a disco tdi. Sorry I can't help much more but have a look on the web u may find the info u require.

I payed £291.00 in March 2007 including delivery from europerformance.co.uk that was £20 cheaper than Janspeed themselves, although the system came direct from Janspeed. Do a search for Janspeed agents and their prices, but not all list LR systems. The system part no. is J-SS729 cat back system single 76mm pipe, thats 3 inches to me. I looked at other SS manufactures at LR shows but Janspeed use flanges to join the parts together (back box & pipe to mid box, mid box to existing 'Y' pipe) much better than sliding one pipe into another method and the welding is very neat. U will need two SS M8 x 50mm nuts & bolts to join the flange that will be over the axel. That cost me 98p from a nut & bolt wholesaler The exhaust hangers unbolt on the disco (or they do on mine) which is very handy for removing and refitting the rubbers and then fitting the system. That's all I think, so go for-it, fit and forget and a good selling point too. Let us know what happens ok. Regards

Could be that the door seal has gone flat, so allowing the door to rattle against the lock striker plate have a look at this and adjust the plate before undoing hinges as u could upset the whole alignment of the door, the door is heavy. Also something loose within the door, speakers if u have them or the door lock itself loose so if u are unsure of the location of the rattle drive around with someone in the back.

The exhaust pipe on a V8 is part of the tuned induction/exhaust system and mucking about with the exhaust pipe on it's own will be detrimental to the performance. For a bit more noise and an increase in performance do what I did and fit a Janspeed Cat back system it was a perfect fit, it's tuned for the engine and therefore it works with the engine being much more responsive. Sound, well louder than the original LR system so people do turn and look if u are travling slowly down a quiet street but it's not as loud like a TVR, also it's still as quiet as the orignal on the inside the disco thanks to the thickness of the metal, just right for me.

No the thermostat will only fit one way. U may have air trapped in the heater matrix but u say the heater is hot also that would sound like water running, this common so leave the header tank cap off and turn the heater to hot and start the engine and warm it up u will see the air bubbles. If the wooosh is like a turbine when the engine is cold and go's away after a minute or so then thats the fan and my disco makes that sound so " they all do it" maybe. Thats all I can think of. Regards